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Originally Posted by hh4whiskey
LOL

‘shootey factor’ is 100x better suppressed, even in an ultralight vs a 7-8# setup, without. wink

I give a hoot if an illuminated SCOPE is ‘100% daylight bright’. It’s far more important that it dims enough to work well in the lowest of light or back into shadow. That’s what it’s FOR. Scopes have reticles, light be damned. An RDS needs a super bright dot.

A LPVO, set on it's lowest power, shot with both eyes open, with a "daylight" bright dot, is just about as fast as an RDS.


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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
You started at a disadvantage with that Trij by going with the MOA version. grin


I muchly prefer Mil/Mil,but no matter the increments,without robust and reliable internals,you have nothing. Hint.

Just sayin’……………


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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
You started at a disadvantage with that Trij by going with the MOA version. grin

I was going to say that myself…. whistle

I am kinda surprised it’s so poor though. I have a few 2-10’s and 3-18’s that have been great for myself. If I get a little time I’ll run them around a bit more and see if I can make them wobble.


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I like the old 1-3 Weaver's, I have several, wish I had more.


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Originally Posted by Chuck_R
Originally Posted by hh4whiskey
LOL

‘shootey factor’ is 100x better suppressed, even in an ultralight vs a 7-8# setup, without. wink

I give a hoot if an illuminated SCOPE is ‘100% daylight bright’. It’s far more important that it dims enough to work well in the lowest of light or back into shadow. That’s what it’s FOR. Scopes have reticles, light be damned. An RDS needs a super bright dot.

A LPVO, set on it's lowest power, shot with both eyes open, with a "daylight" bright dot, is just about as fast as an RDS.

The "Bindon Aiming Concept" that Trijicon mentions behind the ACOG etc?

Definitely sounds like a handy skill to have, with a lot of practice. But reading up on ACOG vs red dot, seems like heavy emphasis on "a lot of practice" vs the red dot?

Last edited by Igloo; 05/14/24.

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Originally Posted by Igloo
Originally Posted by Chuck_R
Originally Posted by hh4whiskey
LOL

‘shootey factor’ is 100x better suppressed, even in an ultralight vs a 7-8# setup, without. wink

I give a hoot if an illuminated SCOPE is ‘100% daylight bright’. It’s far more important that it dims enough to work well in the lowest of light or back into shadow. That’s what it’s FOR. Scopes have reticles, light be damned. An RDS needs a super bright dot.

A LPVO, set on it's lowest power, shot with both eyes open, with a "daylight" bright dot, is just about as fast as an RDS.

The "Bindon Aiming Concept" that Trijicon mentions behind the ACOG etc?

Definitely sounds like a handy skill to have, with a lot of practice. But reading up on ACOG vs red dot, seems like heavy emphasis on "a lot of practice" vs the red dot?

In my experience, not really..

Focus on the target, and the mind does the rest.

I use a 1-6X on my 3gun rig (daylight bright again), rarely am I above 1X since the vast majority of TGTs are under 50yds. The majority of the shooters I've been squaded with are also using LPVOs set on 1x. Every match we'll have a distance stage out to 3-400 yds, or a few micro TGTs thrown in where the ability to zoom is key.

IF an RDs offered a significant advantage time wise, I'd expect to see more of them, since the majority of TGTs are pretty close and time often trumps accuracy. Normally we'll get a shooter or 2 that are brand new using an RDS, after a couple matches they're usually running a LPVO like the rest of us.

The 1.5-5X (and previously 1.25-4X) on my 7600 work the same way, majority of the time at lowest power, but it is nice to have some magnification if I have a "thread the needled" type shot or across a small clearing.

Last edited by Chuck_R; 05/14/24.

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Any decent reticle is as fast as any lit dot, with regard to daylight and LPVO ‘speed’.

Colorful lit dots are cool, and easy to like. They aren’t any ‘faster’ or more instinctive for use inside an LPVO….except for new shooters, maybe.

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Originally Posted by Chuck_R
Originally Posted by Igloo
Originally Posted by Chuck_R
Originally Posted by hh4whiskey
LOL

‘shootey factor’ is 100x better suppressed, even in an ultralight vs a 7-8# setup, without. wink

I give a hoot if an illuminated SCOPE is ‘100% daylight bright’. It’s far more important that it dims enough to work well in the lowest of light or back into shadow. That’s what it’s FOR. Scopes have reticles, light be damned. An RDS needs a super bright dot.

A LPVO, set on it's lowest power, shot with both eyes open, with a "daylight" bright dot, is just about as fast as an RDS.

The "Bindon Aiming Concept" that Trijicon mentions behind the ACOG etc?

Definitely sounds like a handy skill to have, with a lot of practice. But reading up on ACOG vs red dot, seems like heavy emphasis on "a lot of practice" vs the red dot?

In my experience, not really..

Focus on the target, and the mind does the rest.

I use a 1-6X on my 3gun rig (daylight bright again), rarely am I above 1X since the vast majority of TGTs are under 50yds. The majority of the shooters I've been squaded with are also using LPVOs set on 1x. Every match we'll have a distance stage out to 3-400 yds, or a few micro TGTs thrown in where the ability to zoom is key.

IF an RDs offered a significant advantage time wise, I'd expect to see more of them, since the majority of TGTs are pretty close and time often trumps accuracy. Normally we'll get a shooter or 2 that are brand new using an RDS, after a couple matches they're usually running a LPVO like the rest of us.

The 1.5-5X (and previously 1.25-4X) on my 7600 work the same way, majority of the time at lowest power, but it is nice to have some magnification if I have a "thread the needled" type shot or across a small clearing.

What power is it usually on though? If we're talking 1x it might as well be a red dot optic.

Last edited by Igloo; 05/14/24.

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Originally Posted by Igloo
Originally Posted by Chuck_R
Originally Posted by Igloo
Originally Posted by Chuck_R
Originally Posted by hh4whiskey
LOL

‘shootey factor’ is 100x better suppressed, even in an ultralight vs a 7-8# setup, without. wink

I give a hoot if an illuminated SCOPE is ‘100% daylight bright’. It’s far more important that it dims enough to work well in the lowest of light or back into shadow. That’s what it’s FOR. Scopes have reticles, light be damned. An RDS needs a super bright dot.

A LPVO, set on it's lowest power, shot with both eyes open, with a "daylight" bright dot, is just about as fast as an RDS.

The "Bindon Aiming Concept" that Trijicon mentions behind the ACOG etc?

Definitely sounds like a handy skill to have, with a lot of practice. But reading up on ACOG vs red dot, seems like heavy emphasis on "a lot of practice" vs the red dot?

In my experience, not really..

Focus on the target, and the mind does the rest.

I use a 1-6X on my 3gun rig (daylight bright again), rarely am I above 1X since the vast majority of TGTs are under 50yds. The majority of the shooters I've been squaded with are also using LPVOs set on 1x. Every match we'll have a distance stage out to 3-400 yds, or a few micro TGTs thrown in where the ability to zoom is key.

IF an RDs offered a significant advantage time wise, I'd expect to see more of them, since the majority of TGTs are pretty close and time often trumps accuracy. Normally we'll get a shooter or 2 that are brand new using an RDS, after a couple matches they're usually running a LPVO like the rest of us.

The 1.5-5X (and previously 1.25-4X) on my 7600 work the same way, majority of the time at lowest power, but it is nice to have some magnification if I have a "thread the needle" type shot or across a small clearing.

What power is it usually on though? If we're talking 1x it might as well be a red dot optic.


Usually 1 or 1.5X (lowest setting) depending on the conditions. And you're right, it could just as well be an RDS for about 75-90% of it's actual use. For me, that's still hunting and drives in wooded terrain. IF I was using the same combination from a stand/blind, I'd probably use the magnification more.

I use LPVOs to add flexibility.

Like I said, to me, it's just about as fast as an RDS (own 3 of them, used the M68 in service). The last few carbines I've put together all wear LPVOs for that reason, IMHO it just adds some flexibility.


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Originally Posted by Igloo
Curious as to what you all prefer on a carbine that you'd like to keep as light and handy and fast to use as possible?

How far do you want to shoot? I am a fan of more magnification but for shortish range and bigger targets I have used the Weaver K2.5 quite a bit in past years. It went away on a Win 94 trapper .44 magnum when I sold that. Oops. I planned to "someday" buy a Leupold 2.5x and set it aside but I waited too long.

I had thought the Leupold 4X RF special might work well on some of the smaller centerfires but I found the VX Freedom version to be twitchy.

I remain a Leupold fan so 1-4X, 1.5-5X, 2-7X, or 2.5-8X are all good choices. Best of the bunch is, IMHO, the Leupold 2.5-8X. It's maybe a smidge heavier but still pretty light, good optics, field of view, etc. It's my favorite hunting scope. I own a bunch of others but it is what I put on my favorite hunting rifle. 11.5 - 12 ounces as I recall.


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Originally Posted by Big Stick
A svelte,handy and light parcel that easily does it ALL,is tough to whoop. Hint.

The reticle gets it to the 1150yd line and beings it's rather new to the larder,I've not had it out much past 1400yds. Hint.

Nothing is more useless,than Living Wood and Blued Steel. Hint.

Just sayin'...............

lol, I walk you into it lol....

here we are, in a hunting optics section, and you're going on about 1150 to past 1400 yards....starting at double the range where hunting ends for the 98%....walked right into it haha

you got gear to sell so go ahead and pump all those tires up that they will be 1200-1500 yard super killers out there and live in the 2% world haha....whatever it takes to 'do business'

good for all the new readers here to see the full perspectives of these threads, that some of us provide better than others....nice target scopes, what waste for 0-600 yard world that hunting lives in...more is more eh? hahaha

even more out of place than a DP you're trying to pedal those sorts of wares in a 'short lightweight carbine' thread to keep handy...I mean it already was a hunting section but the little carbine thread sort of doubles down on it haha

Last edited by stinkycoyote; 05/14/24.
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Originally Posted by geedubya
Originally Posted by Big Stick
Nothing is funnier than Brokedick Whining,as DREAMERS Pretend aloud. Hint.

Bless your heart,for doing your best.

Hint.

Just sayin'.................


Opinions vary,


Not much of a long distance paper puncher here.


CSMC RBL Professional 20 ga. Sabot double


[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Light

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

and fast enough.........

to kill stuff!


ya!


GWB

that is super cool, the ballistics of the 20 gauge sabot's are awesome, what a cool double, I keep thinking there's a hole in the market for some slim light stainless over unders in regular hunting cartridges like 308 etc. for working hard and beating on...but that set up is so unique...

hey would you quit posting real world facts and results etc.....the prs guys are gonna get offended....again, like a bunch of lefties crying all the time

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Some of the best hunters who I know use low power scopes with heavy reticles that immediately draw the eye to the point of aim. My friend in NH who is a very successful tracker likes the old Weaver K1.5 with a post and crosshair reticle. I like the Leupold 2-7x33s with heavy duplex reticles. Sometimes the 7x magnification comes in handy when you want to try and sneak a bullet through a small opening in heavy cover. While neither of those two scopes is perfect in every way, they are functional and rugged, or at least that has been our experience.

That said, what works well for me and my hunting scenarios might not be the best solution for other people and/or in other situations.

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I greatly respect the guys that are spending thousands of dollars every year on the best optics, and handloadinh precision ammunition using the highest BC bullets.

Many are pushing out of the comfort zone of most average hunters. My riflescopes are very basic and fairly unimportant. My longest shot on an animal was a little over 500 yards on a bull moose

But I certainly won't sh it on or disrespect the guys who yawn at 500 yard limits.

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A Skookum sub 6.5# rifle,could largely give a schit less about "distance" and actual Trigger Time trumps Imagination and Pretend. Hint.

Joe Average ain't very fhuqking bright,as these Threads never don't not eloquently attest,if only obliviously. Hint.

I will happily trade wares with someone,that "thinks" Blued/Walnut is good to go and I'll simply flog on same,like I do 100's of others. Such Fantasies are simply fhuqking HILARIOUS. Hint.

Just sayin'................


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Originally Posted by Big Stick
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
You started at a disadvantage with that Trij by going with the MOA version. grin


I muchly prefer Mil/Mil,but no matter the increments,without robust and reliable internals,you have nothing. Hint.

Just sayin’……………
Just ribbing you a bit.

Of course, I agree, although my Accupower 1-8x, the predecessor to the Credo 1-8x, has worked flawlessly for me with a bunch of dialing and a few hard knocks thrown in. A sample of one, but still. Bummer that yours is acting wonky.

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I was laughing at me,when I ordered the fhuqking thing. Was hoping mechanics would sugar coat the bitter pill,but it weren’t so. Hint.

Just sayin’……….


Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
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I don't have a lot of data to confirm tracking etc. on trijicons either, small samples, but it's enough now, over several years of testing, that I have a LOT of confidence in the tracking and rtz. Even from 3-9x40 accupoints I've put Kenton speed dial turrets on, beat on for few seasons with kids, dial up, sit in safe over winters, test before seasons...and there is NO readjusting zeros. You take one clean at 200 on the gong after a few years of this and you can't place it any more perfectly in the middle. Big fan...not worried about my 1-6 accupoint at all, that now wears a Kenton ballistic strip (no turret for that model...but that strip is nice) and I'm thinking the 3-9x40 1" probably the lightest built of their lineup...so if that's bomber then these other models I'm not worried about at all.

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Originally Posted by mainer_in_ak
I greatly respect the guys that are spending thousands of dollars every year on the best optics, and handloadinh precision ammunition using the highest BC bullets.

Many are pushing out of the comfort zone of most average hunters. My riflescopes are very basic and fairly unimportant. My longest shot on an animal was a little over 500 yards on a bull moose

But I certainly won't sh it on or disrespect the guys who yawn at 500 yard limits.

awe, thank you, got me right in the feelers with that one bro, cheers wink

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Originally Posted by stinkycoyote
that is super cool, the ballistics of the 20 gauge sabot's are awesome, what a cool double, I keep thinking there's a hole in the market for some slim light stainless over unders in regular hunting cartridges like 308 etc. for working hard and beating on...but that set up is so unique...


Since you mention it, I have a couple combo guns with another on the way in.

First is a Merkel B4 Bergstutzen O/U, 223 Rem., over 30-06 Springfield

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]



Next, a Blaser BBF95 which is also an O/U.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

A 12 ga. w/ 222 Rem Einstecklauf Barrel Insert over 308 Win

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


I figure the 12 ga. with either rifled slug or buckshot and 308 Win.combo will be perfect for daytime hoglets.

ya!

GWB


A Kill Artist. When I draw, I draw blood.
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