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I have a T/C Icon which has the massive bolt. There is a lot of bearing surface in contact with the receiver. When it runs dry it is noticeably less smooth to operate. What is a good, long lasting lube for this application? Thanks


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Lucas Red 'N Tacky grease. $5 for a big tube at auto parts store. Good adhesion and works well.

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Originally Posted by cotis
I have a T/C Icon which has the massive bolt. There is a lot of bearing surface in contact with the receiver. When it runs dry it is noticeably less smooth to operate. What is a good, long lasting lube for this application? Thanks


Work it about a thousand times. Should take about 4 beers.


Originally Posted by captain seafire
I replace valve cover gaskets every 50K, if they don't need them sooner...
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Originally Posted by cotis
I have a T/C Icon which has the massive bolt. There is a lot of bearing surface in contact with the receiver. When it runs dry it is noticeably less smooth to operate. What is a good, long lasting lube for this application? Thanks



Frog Lube CLP on the bolt and the inside of the receiver and use bolt grease on the lugs.

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Originally Posted by jeffbird
Lucas Red 'N Tacky grease. $5 for a big tube at auto parts store. Good adhesion and works well.


I bought a jar of it at Advance. Great grease!!!


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After reading an article by, I think Hamilton Bowen, I got a big can of moly truck bearing grease and a bottle of DriSlide. The article claimed those were all a boy would ever need for lubing guns. Both are messy, but very effective.

Out of the box, my Ruger Hawkeye Predator had that gravelly-feeling bolt that folks like to complain about. After putting a little of that grease on all the contact points and running it a bit, it's slicker than snot on a doorknob.


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I use army surplus rifle grease originally made for M-1 and M-14 rifles. However, most any automotive grease will work quite well. I go by the old rule of "if it rotates, oil it. If it slides, grease it."


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Get her wet enough and you'll never have to lube your bolt...

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automatic tranny fluid. IF needed.

also very good for removing rust when said part is soaked for a few days.

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Why would one put grease on a part that can be hit with dirt and sand?

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Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
Why would one put grease on a part that can be hit with dirt and sand?


At a minimum, grease should be put on the rear face of the lugs to prevent galling, and aid opening after firing.

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A high-tech dry chain lube from a bike store.

They're designed to lubricate the chain and gears but repel dirt... White Lightning is one commonly available.

Or just use a spray furniture polish or car wax.


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Originally Posted by jeffbird
Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
Why would one put grease on a part that can be hit with dirt and sand?


At a minimum, grease should be put on the rear face of the lugs to prevent galling, and aid opening after firing.


there and the cocking cam on the lugs internally

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I've used Break-Free CLP for years, with good results.


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I recently switched from grease to Machine Gunner's Lube for my bolts, AR's and Shotgun. It's moly based, goes on really thin, retains lubricity longer, attracts less dirt, and operates -50 to 650F.

Till something better comes along......

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Jeez, we're not talking about high pressure, hundreds or thousands of cycles a minute here..

Run her in dry while watching a ball game on TV and drinking beer.

It will loosen up.


Originally Posted by captain seafire
I replace valve cover gaskets every 50K, if they don't need them sooner...
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Mil-Comm gun lubricant spray on the bolt and Mil-Comm gun grease on the lugs. Its what the army uses and what Jim Borden recommended to me for our 2 guns he built us on his actions which have a bolt to receiver tolerances of .002". It works for me as I am sure others will work great as well.

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Short of a bit of Shooter's Choice grease on the rear of the lugs, mine all run dry. RL's method is the one to follow.


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I use Mil-Comm TW25B on the back of my bolt lugs and on the cocking cam threads/surface.

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