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I have an early Springfield 1903 that I am trying to remove the receiver sight from. Tried Kroil, several soaks, heated with propane torch and Kroil soak again. Still the screws will not budge, looking for suggestions as to what to use as far as a penetrationg oil. I plan to try a hand impact driver after soaking some more with whatever is suggested.

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PB Blaster


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Just curios gunwizard, you said you used a torch. Did you use indirect heat, as in heating a screwdriver blade on the screw?

I also use and have heard some great stories about PB blaster. Good luck and tell us how you finally get it.


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Have you tried giving the screwdriver head a tap while you give it gentle pressure toward undoing it. Sometimes that will break it loose.


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I have used Tri-Flo/Flow for 20+yrs for everything from rust preservative to loosening frozen screws etc to sizing lube. Has Teflon in it, always did what I needed. Use it in bores on rifles I don't/won't shoot in awhile and never had one rust but then my digs aren't real humid nor where I live so rust isn't a big issue with a little common sense.

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I usually use Kroil or (horrors!) WD-40 on machinery but happened on a mostly empty can of PB Blaster. Worked better than I thought it would. Can emptied before I got much experience but worth a try. Have had occasional luck with VonGruff's tap method. And on rare occasions torque in the tighten direction first to break the threads loose.

And think pure thoughts - good vibes you know.

marko - I heat wherever the torch reaches. Just want it warm enough to assist the penetrating oil to penetrate and soften any threadlocker which, in the case of a Springfield, might be linseed oil. Like to 200F or so which won't affect temper on any steel. Any steel not exotic of whatever temper can handle 400F or so without changing its structure. The hot wrench technique is to heat the hole part really hot to expand that part enough to break rust and loosen the fit a bit. For big stuff unaffected by red heat.


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Which explains a lot.
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I rank Kroil number one closely followed by PB Blaster. Allow the Kroil to work for a few hours.

It is either a rust or thread locker issue. If you have directed the Kroil or PB Blaster to a couple of different openings to the threads and let it work a couple of hours and that didn't help, then it is most likely heavy thread locker and you will need some more heat.

If the receiver sight is an aluminum Williams, you may be dealing with oxidation of the aluminum. The only solution to that other than drilling the screws out is more heat, to the point of ruining the sight.

Also have you looked closely for any "staking" of the heads? Sometimes they disrupt the body into the screw slot or some other area of the screw head.

Again as staded earlier, try tapping a sharp rap with a screw driver bit in the screw slot, straight down after the Kroil soak/work; this will break rust free, but have about zero influence on aluminum to steel oxidation.

Just an FYI: Anti-sieze should be used on steel screws going through or into aluminum to prevent that nasty bauxite oxidation.

edited for spelling

Last edited by sbrmike; 06/24/15. Reason: spelling error

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1/2 auto transmission fluid, 1/2 acetone. It has been proven to be the best penetrating oil of all. Far surpasses Kroil


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Originally Posted by saddlesore
1/2 auto transmission fluid, 1/2 acetone. It has been proven to be the best penetrating oil of all. Far surpasses Kroil


Actually the tests show it to be as good as Kroil, just far cheaper.


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Originally Posted by gunswizard
I have an early Springfield 1903 that I am trying to remove the receiver sight from. Tried Kroil, several soaks, heated with propane torch and Kroil soak again. Still the screws will not budge, looking for suggestions as to what to use as far as a penetrationg oil. I plan to try a hand impact driver after soaking some more with whatever is suggested.


I assume the screw holes are drilled all the way through the receiver. Remove the bolt and fill the holes with Kroil and let it soak down into the holes overnight.

If Kroil doesn't get them loose, no other oil will either. It'll be time to try mechanical means to loosen the screws.

Best of luck.

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Mousemilk aircraft penetrating oil and mint oil are supposed to be legendary. I use the acetone/atf with good results.


Originally Posted by BrentD

I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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For tough jobs, I use a mixture of Kroil oil, Type-F ATF (old school ford), Aggressor parts washer solvent, D.O.T. 3 Brake Fluid and acetone. I mix in a 125ml amber glass bottle with approximate amounts as follows: 50% Kroil, and the next remaining 3 in equal parts leaving enough room for 2-3 tablespoons of the Acetone to shake well. Then I heat my screw by using a variable wattage soldering iron and with the iron touching the screw slot and set about 15 watts to draw in the solvent then soaking overnight. If you have the opportunity, reapply solvent a few times during the soaking period and increasing wattage setting if additional heat is needed. This works very well for me on tight screws or bolts.

Last edited by Zeus77; 06/25/15. Reason: Typo; too early in AM
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Have used reverse drill bits with success....


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I use and have had great success with Marine PAL penetrating oil.

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Gunswizard,

Were you able to get the screw out on the Springfield yet? I'm curious what ended up working for you?

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Try paraffin. Melt it over the screw and let it cool. Then try to remove the screw.

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Try paraffin. Melt it over the screw and let it cool. Then try to remove the screw.

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Google Kroil vs ATF/acetone and decide for yourself.


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We use CorrosionX in our shop.

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Originally Posted by high_country_
Mousemilk aircraft penetrating oil and mint oil are supposed to be legendary. I use the acetone/atf with good results.

BINGO, If you can still find it! very best WinPoor

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