Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles lubing inside the necks.

Hey RL, have you ever tried that spray lube from Hornady? What's it called? (grin)

One shot?

Only when I don't want to use a million different concoctions and steps to size a case.

If only there was like, a spray, that could do it all, just a one step process,

Like maybe one shot of some lube or something similar,

Sounds far-fetched at this point.

Maybe in the future?

I spray for bulk loading.

For precision loads, I prefer to clean the necks with a stainless brush in the drill press. It's pretty fast, and just leaves clean brass inside, so they don't stick.

Imperial is your chit and it's here right now. Proven track record.

Always a fun topic, gets good when the cluless get brave and start talking out of their asses

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/9743347/Re:_?_need_to_remove_lube_afte#Post9743347

I lube the necks of my rifle cases for a different reason than most of the rest of you. I started reloading on my own in 1970 after one of my Dad's friends started me out reloading at his house in the months before the 1968 hunting season. He was so meticulous that I picked up his methods of loading, he was into accuracy above all. I use graphite to lube the necks in the form of art graphite sticks. I peal off about 1/2 of an inch of the stick and insert it in the neck of the shell case and turn the brass in my hand and literally mark up the inside of the neck in a series of bands until I get most of the neck covered with graphite. Then I wipe all of it off that has gotten on the mouth of the case, this prevents it from getting on the lube pad. All of my dies up to .338's have carbide inside neck sizers buttons. Hornady makes them for RCBS dies and you can get .338 sizer buttons from Sinclair, I have never found any larger than that. After you lube the case with whatever you use for the outside, as you pass the case into the sizer die the inside of the neck will be polished as the carbide inside sizer is passed through. I wipe the lube off the outside of the case and leave the graphite on the inside of the neck. I have already chamfered the inside of the neck at 22.5 degrees the bullet seats very readily and very accurately. In effect you have polished the inside of the neck and seated the bullet in a very uniform manner. Which translates into a very uniform bullet pull as the case expands on firing, which means the harmonic wave that is imparted into the barrel is very uniform. I check the loaded round with an optical comparator, then I check for run in and run out with a mic, check for depth of primer seating with a mic set up for that as well. I will not get into all the steps, as some of y'all know me I get real anal about this. This method allows me sit down at my range bench and put all of them through the same hole at 100 and 200 yards, which translates into good long range accuracy. This helps me to shoot hogs at unethical distances and game animals out past 500 yards. I have used this method of lubing necks for 45 years in as small as .17 Remingtons through .50 BMG in virtually all temperatures ranges. I have had zero issues, makes the barrels a bit longer as a plus.
Good shooting,
Marcus.

I've tried every combination of lubing necks, pads, sprays, Imperial and even q-tips.
Nothing, and I mean nothing, works as well as a nylon brush dipped in fine graphite powder. I dip in graphite, tap off all excess, 2 passes in and out and size. I also have the Imperial dipper, but I don't like the graphite on the outside of the necks.
Another point to be made, polish your expanders, it makes a big difference and stops necks and shoulder stretching.
Bushings also work, but most have an expander anyway, so if you use it, it needs the above, even if it's only pushing the neck out by .002" or less.

Cheers.

I didn't see it mentioned, but Hornady One Shot is good stuff. Just make sure it dries a minute or so for the alcohol to evaporate off or you'll stick a case and feel like a dumb southerner...