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Originally Posted by Gunplummer
All their stuff was made in Japan years ago, and good quality too. They started farming out their products in the early 70's for sure. I have OD mics marked made in Brazil I bought at that time.

When I read this, I had to run down to the shop and double check my set of Mitutoyo mikes. I would have pretty upset if they were marked "Made in Brazil". Thankfully, they are made in Japan. Remember when Japanese stuff was considered to be cheap junk? How times change. GD

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The machinists love the Brown and Sharpe dials and Mitutoyo digitals. I have a 25 year old Chinese import dial, an early import, that I like better than my Starrett. I had two Chinese imports but my Lab chewed one.

While I have Mits and a Starrett 0-1" mikes,my 0-6" and 0-100mm sets of mikes are made in Poland. After I stripped, cleaned, and adjusted them, the VIS with their friction thimbles sure beat the ratchets on the Mits and the Starrett.

Last edited by downwindtracker2; 07/13/15.

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Sounds like they are worth fixing...
Sadly there was a B&S 0-1 mic in the bottom drawer of one of the Kennedy boxes. Probably sat on a garage or basement floor through many Nebraska humid summers...and it turned pretty rusty.. Any suggestions...

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Originally Posted by rainierrifleco
Probably sat on a garage or basement floor through many Nebraska humid summers...and it turned pretty rusty.. Any suggestions...


It's gone to metrological heaven. Give it a good funeral.

My calipers: Brown & Sharpe 6", 60's vintage, still feels like a Rolex. Helios 6", 70's vintage, my work-a-day calipers. 24" Browne&Sharpe, 50's vintage, more for looking at than using. Mics: B&S and Mitutoyo 0-1", various Starrets up to 6". Vernier calipers: B&S and Mauser Werke- by far the most accurate calipers but I need a magnifier to read the scales anymore. Height indicators: several, up to and including 36" Starret (have four of those- anybody need one?). Starret granite surface plate to use them on. Depth mics: B&S 0-1". Most important ones: A set of Starret standards and a set of B&S jo blocks. One needs to verify one's accuracy now and then, no?


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Don't ask me why I have a lot of 0-1" mics. I have a Starrett, 2-NSKs(Japanese), Mitutoyo(Japanese), and a B&S. I do have a set of Gauge blocks and them from time to time. In the old days when I worked in the shop I only bought B&S.

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I used an Etalon the other day and it was very nice.

I have a couple of gage blocks to check my mikes with too. I don't like to have to set them at zero and hope that is good for the whole range. I have one block that is .500000. Guaranteed to 4 millionths. I rarely need that type of accuracy but it is a nice peace of mind to set your mikes as close to perfect as possible.

How many of us really check that stuff. When is the last time you had a torque wrench certified? I have to for aircraft work. Never had one off but that sticker is important.


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I used to have a set of Etalon mics from 5"-12", but I sold them as I never used them gunsmithing. They are a superior product, Swiss I believe.

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My mics, depth gages, dials, straight edges, rules, etc are all Starrett from 25 years ago except my Mitutoyo digital calipers for the loading bench and a backup SPI digital for the Mitutoyo. If I could do it all over I would have set aside my misguided distrust of Japanese products and bought all Mitutoyo. Same in the accuracy dept but better legibility and seals than Starrett.

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The Starrett stuff from 25 years ago is good stuff. I like Mitutoyo digital stuff but I still like the Swiss the dials and regular vernier mikes.


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When I worked as a machinist we had to calibrate everything once a year.
My Starrett calipers would sometimes get a chip caught in the rack gear and it could jump a tooth.
I would just keep flushing it with oil and try to flood it out.
I did have to send them in to the factory once.

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It's not a bad idea to have an old fashioned vernier caliper around. I use reading glasses with mine these days though.

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I traded my verner for digitals decades ago. A couple days ago I found an old plastic pair in the tool box. I will give them to a very young friend. I hope he will be able to learn how to use them.


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I wouldn't use plastic ones to measure hotdogs.


The vernier ones are fine if you wear an optivisor!


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What would you use for a hot dog, Dennis?

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Vernier calipers, if made with the necessary precision, are potentially the most accurate of them all. With only one moving part there isn't much to get out of whack. I still use mine, but only if I have a lens with which to read the scale.


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A vernier caliper is not hard to use, at all. Like Gary says, what's to go wrong?

If you want to try a more difficult vernier, try a 20 second transit.

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I have both, but use a mic if I need an accurate measurement.
Dennis, I was jerking your chain.

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