Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Ruger rifle trigger for my daughter.

My daughter has a Ruger rifle that I got her when she was about 10 years old.
It is the Ruger M77 compact in a 7-08. She's had the rifle 12-13 years now. She's trying to get accurate at longer ranges, but the trigger is so stiff it's difficult.

I am considering buying a Timney trigger for it.
I replaced one on a Savage last year and it was very simple.

Question. Is it a really easy drop in on Rugers, or will there be some shaving and whittling to do?

I've seen some reviews saying they had to use a dremel on some parts.

With a little polish, the factory trigger can be improved immensely....almost perfect actually.

I've gone the Timmey route before and, if I remember correctly, there was some shaving and whittling on the safety portion of the trigger.

+1

the timney shaving and whittling concerns me a little.
Scripture and pharmacy, I feel like I know my way around pretty good. metal shaving on safeties? not so much.

I've been thinking on it a few months, though, I need to just make up my mind.

If you look at a factory trigger, the top is cut at an angle, all you do is flatten that out, so it isn't compressing the spring when you pull it. It is one of the easiest triggers in the world to fix.

I would work on the factory trigger. As the other guys have said, they are very easy to work over.

Here is a link to tuning the MK II.

http://www.centerfirecentral.com/77trigger.html

I installed a Rifle Basix, it works fine for my use.

Holy chit, do you know a competent gunsmith? If you can't re-work a Ruger m77 trigger, have someone else do it for you. NO need to get a Timney..

thanks guys.
I considered the timney on the ruger because I liked it so much on my savage.
I will look a the video.
Before I spend $120 for a timney, I might as well give it a try or take it to a gunsmith.

Seems simple.
Try the factory trigger first, if it doesn't help or you screw it up then get the aftermarket.
It's called triage.

I have to agree with the people that suggest working on the Ruger factory trigger. As they have stated, it is a very easy trigger to work on, be it an M77, MKII or Hawkeye version.

My Interarms Mauser has a Timney trigger and it is great. The Ruger Triggers I've reworked are not quite as good, but they are very good nevertheless. Since I do the rework myself, the labor is a lot cheaper than a new Timney. Every time I do a Ruger trigger I tell myself the worst that could happen is I'll destroy the trigger and have to buy a Timney. At least nine triggers later and I've yet to buy a Timney.

The trick is to read up on how reworking a Ruger trigger, understanding what needs to be done and GO SLOW. It only takes a few minutes to reassemble the trigger back into the action, drop the action back into the stock (no need to install the action screws. just want to get the right grip/finger/trigger geometry) and give the trigger a few pull tests. A trigger can also be destroyed very quickly, hence the GO SLOW admonition. For most of my work I use fine and very fine Cratex polishing wheels in the Dremel.

I start by putting a mirror polish on the trigger and sear mating surfaces, as well as the outer edges of the holes where the pins go. While I am at it I put a tiny bevel on the trigger's leading edge, just enough to break the sharp corner, and clean the holes where the pins go. Next, the mating surfaces, holes and pins get a thin coat of Teflon grease. This should give the trigger a smoother pull and crisper break, which may be all you need.

If that doesn't get the trigger to where you want it, you may have to get more aggressive. The next thing I do is reduce sear engagement. This requires much more metal removal than just polishing. One way to do this is to use a stone laying on a glass or other smooth/flat surface. You will find directions in the articles on reworking the Ruger triggers. Generally I don't like to go below 0.020" but I have a couple at 0.018". Reducing sear engagement will reduce pull weight (less lifting of the sear by the trigger) as well as creep.

The last thing I do is change the angle of the mating surface on the trigger. Because this involves removal of much more metal than simple surface polishing, a greater degree of skill is required. A jig is not an absolute requirement but a steady hand and good eye are, along with a means to ensure the new surface is flat and at the correct angles. (If you lay the trigger on a flat, the new surface should be in a vertical plane. It also needs to retain a positive angle in relation to the sear – meaning it should still lift the sear a bit when the trigger is pulled. You DO NOT want to have a zero angle (no lift) or, worse, a negative angle where the sear is actually trying to push the trigger into releasing the sear. (Bang!) A trigger with a positive angle will ‘reset’ if gently pulled and released before it breaks. A trigger with a zero or negative angle will not ‘reset’.

If you reduce sear engagement or the trigger angle too much you have destroyed the parts and it will be time to get an aftermarket trigger.

Just a quick caution. You have little to lose by attempting to rework the trigger. If you screw up the parts and have to buy a new trigger, you are only out money you would have spent anyway. If, however, you screw up the parts and don’t replace them, you put yourself and others around you in potentially deadly danger. Again, GO SLOW.

Yahoo!
Thanks guys. I checked out the website on modifying the ruger factory trigger. found a diagram that was very helpful.
I didn't touch the sear, only the trigger. It didn't have a creep or overtravel problem anyway, only what seemed like an 8 pull. Hard to really get tight, accurate patterns. I had never been able to shoot really tight with it, 1.0+ inches at 100 yds. I really think it will tighten up now.


I have no idea the weight pull it is now, but is very similar to how I've got my Savage Timney trigger.
It is light, but not dangerously light.

I bump-tested it numerous times and everything is fine.

I used the site recommended on the 1st page of thread.
site: http://centerfirecentral.com/77trigger.html
drawing: http://centerfirecentral.com/images/trigger.gif


I appreciate your encouragement and input.

I have two Ruger Tang Safety Model 77's. Both have great factory triggers that were tuned by a competent gunsmith. Both at 3# let-off. Have a gunsmith do it, money well spent especially since it's your daughter's rifle.

Good job guy. From what you say you now have one of the best triggers on the market and it didn't cost you a penny. I have probably worked on two dozen Mark II and Hawkeye triggers and would rather have what you end up with than any replacement trigger on the market. (Referring to hunting triggers). The Ruger trigger is an open design, totally different from the pre-64 Winchester, but with the same attributes in that it won't get all gunked up inside like a lot of the newer box triggers on the market. Not knocking after markets, but yours was free. Enjoy with your daughter.