Home Forums Hunting & Shooting General Big Game Another tire chain question for half-ton owners

I will be heading to Colorado this October and was looking into taking a set of chains along for my truck. It seems as if most half-ton trucks are recommending no chains or the S class type due to clearance issues. For the guys running a half-ton truck, what chains are you taking into the hills if any? I am currently driving a 07 F-150.

V-bar, if the side chains will clear your tie-rods. My 08 Dodge 1/2 ton didn't so I had to use wheel spacers.

Properly fitted chains make THAT big of a difference when 3 feet of snow dumpes on you overnight. Don't go late season elk hunting without them. I've also seen some heavy snow fall in early October, so even early season they're not a bad idea.

Amen! There have been at least 3 winters, in the last ten years or so, in which we had everything with wheels chained up during the first rifle hunts in Colorado.

try them on your truck before you leave.

i carry two sets and have used them twice in October, on a two wheel drive-laff.

good luck.

My 2007 F-150 FX4 has 18 inch rims. Clearance on rear wheels at e-brake cable was the problem for rear chains. I bought 17 inch steel wheels and narrower profile winter tires that matched the dia. of original tires. clearance improved for chains and tire/wheel combo is switched seasonally.

Marv

Thanks Marv, do u have good clearance up front? I am running 265/70 R17 BFG A/T. I think I may be ok, but unsure and wanting to know what others are running.

I have the same problem with my 07 Tacoma. I did some research and settled on these with square links.

http://www.tirechain.com/square_alloy_cross_chain.htm

They are advertised as giving more clearance. They might not be as good as the v-bars, but certainly better than nothing. I've used them on the rear my 07 Tacoma with 265-75-16 tires. The brake line is too close to use them on the front, but they do fit front and rear on my Wrangler.

I've considered narrower tires, but wheel spacers or aftermarket wheels with a different offset will do the same thng.

If a pickup doesn't have room for chains, it's not a pickup. It's just a car with a large open trunk. Little by little they're ruining the usefulness of their pickups.

Haven't checked for front clearance. No plans for front chains.

However, you might find this informative as well. Winter tire is Cooper LT235/80/17, load E. Original tire was BF Goodrich P-metric 275/65/18. New replacement all season tire is LT275/65/18 Cooper, load C. Interesting point is dif in sidewall shape and profile. Clearance went from 1 finger to 2 finger width in clearance to the e-brake cable between the P-metric and LT tire on same size profile and 18 inch rim.

Marv

piss-poor planning, precludes epic get-stuck-on-the-mountain-call-a-tow-truck-type-incidents.


PRICELESS!!......




most times, front chains will do you more good than rears......

Not smart.

Super-Z Quick Grip chains are another choice that meets class S clearance requirements

http://www.peerlesschain.com/brands/traction/traction-product-choices/quik-grip/

Don't plan to be in your world for snow situations and get stuck in the deep mountain snows you may experience.

No dispute over which axle benefits the most. Wasn't part of the question or the reply.

Love your editorial without context. Not everyone experiences your reality. Bravo!

Marv

The stock tire size on my Dodge Ram is 265/70/17. I'm running 245/75/17. That gets the same outside diameter but a couple inches narrower. That improves handling plus allows more room for chains.

Wouldn't own a vehicle (Some trucks ain't trucks) I couldn't chain up. mtmuley

Four plus one- Don't be the boob that holds folks up Yes I were a boob.. Never found the sluft off right right rear..

Ok..... thanks for the heads up.

agreed.......and still are.

When the rear end pushes the front end off the road remember you were warned.

Crap a tow rope with eyes and two three foot chains will help a boob out.grin

Is this about chains or boobs now?

In some places chains are not optional. Either you have them or turn around and go back.
Put them on before you need them. Don't wait until you get stuck.
Maybe practice putting them on at home?

Fit them BEFORE you practice......

More info please. Do you trust the guides for selecting the chain for a given tire size? How do you determine clearance in advance? I live in the desert and I lack confidence in the advice of the locals. Any advice is welcome.

mike r

I have a set of these for the front tires on my pickup: http://www.amazon.com/Security-Comp...;sr=8-4&keywords=cable+chains+for+LT

They go on easy and perform surprisingly well given they are designed for the snow packed highway.

I compensate by using modified log truck chains on the rear axle.

I've bought chains for a couple different trucks from tirechains.com. Be sure to get chains for the front and rear. Based on my experience elk hunting in Colorado there's about a 50% chance you are going to want them to get out.

I got medium duty twisted link with cams, they work great.

http://www.tirechain.com/Truck-Tire-Chains.HTM

Well, I have a set of glacier vbar chains incoming we shall see how they fit. There is a video on Etrailer.com showing them fitting on an 05 f150 so I think they will at least work on the rear. If they don't work for the front I'll try something else on front.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005PW6M8W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1439601381&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=glacier+vbar&dpPl=1&dpID=51Qf3pp5L%2BL&ref=plSrch

What's considered adequate clearance? One finger, three fingers. Wait, are we talking chains or scotch?
Thanks for the chain answer

Clearance needs to be checked with the wheels turned to the stops in both directions. Remember that rubber tensioners will be nice and tight when parked but will stretch at 30 to allow the chains to lift off the tire. Check the clearance without the tensioners for a better idea of how much you'll need.

I run a 2005 F150. Original tires are 255/xx/17. At the moment I'm running 285/xx/17 (don't recall the 'xx' numbers) but plan to switch back to new tires in the 265 or the original 255 size before the elk hunt.

For chains I am running heavy duty chins of an unknown brand. Picked them up in Craig one year after my standard-duty, v-bar chains broke for the umpteenth time. THe chains I have now have never broken and, while more expensive, have been worth every penny.

Every tire gets two rubber tensioners with 4-5 hooks each. They are cheap so be sure to take extras.

Some points others have mentioned and a few thoughts of my own:

1. Test your chains on your tires BEFORE you head for elk camp. Be sure you have a couple of extra links more than needed when testing them on dry ground. One of my first hunting trips in Colorado was with a friend in his 4x4. I asked if he had chains for all four. Yup, sure did. Unfortunately he also had new tires and when we got high-centered in axle-deep, freezing mud we discovered the the chains would "just about" fit - another link would have done the trick. Four of us spent a couple hours trying to get the chains on with an epic fail. Because "just about" was not nearly good enough, we spent the night on the hillside and stayed there blocking the road until the next morning when a couple of jeeps with chains pulled us up the hill.


2. Chains for all four are better than for two. Chains on the front work better than chains on the back due to engine weight and steering.

3. Your chains may feel tight when you first put them on but after 50-100 yards you need to stop and check them. Often you will find you can get another link or more, depending on how tight they really were.

4. There are two ways to put on chains: a) drive onto them and fasten them at the top, and b) put them on from the top and fasten at the bottom. I've done both ways but find the top-down approach is easier as gravity is working with you.

5. Having spent the night on a hillside (see above) and with multiple experiences chaining up in axle-deep mud because I was too stupid to chain up earlier, and a couple cases coming down a mountain out of control on icy gravel roads, I highly recommend chaining up BEFORE the going gets really bad. Worst case is it might turn out you "might" have been able to get by without them, something you will never know for sure. Best case is they might save your butt and your rig. A coworker ignored my advice, tried to go through a snow drift that at least one other vehicle had gone through and paid a $1,000 tow. He was just lucky that he was on a "main" road and the tow truck could get to him.

6. Chaining up in the mud or snow is much less unpleasant if you have the right accessories with you. Heavy-duty rubber-coated cloth gloves will keep your hands dry and much warmer. A large plastic bag makes a good ground cover and will help keep you cleaner and drier. A pair of coveralls that you can take off and throw in the back of the truck (or in the bag so they don't freeze, allowing you to use them again later when the chains need to come off) will help keep the inside of your truck cleaner.

7. Finally, don't be stupid. Even with chains on all four wheels, you can still get stuck. A come-along, tow rope, shovel and some long, heavy-duty chains accompany me on every trip. When in doubt, DON'T. Getting out of the truck in axle-deep mud that is under water is for the birds. This is especially true when you are by yourself.

Do you mean that a 2 wheel drive pick-up needs to chain up all 4 wheels?

Carry a couple 6" 2x4s. Drive up on them before chaining (unless you can't move). That will give you a lot more adjusting clearance.

I lay the chains out in front of the tires and put the blocks between the rails about 2 cross links from the end. Drive up on them then pull the chains over the tires. That puts the latches where you can get at them easier.

Thanks for all the pointers guys. My glacier vbars should be here tomorrow so we shall see how these fit. Hopefully they fit well on the front and I can order another set of them. Can one use rubber bungee cords rather than the tensioners that they sell or do you all recommend the tensioners made for the chains?

I prefer the rubber bungies over rubber tensioners any day. I keep 6 per chain. When you fit your chains, get them on tight and cut off all but 1 extra link on the inside. Leave all your extras on the outside and secure with a tensioner hook.

Use the thick black truck tarp kind, not the thin psychedelic colored ones.

Every now and then there is a poster on here that has been there/done that and knows how to get out a clear message.
You're one of those posters
Thanks

Dunno about that.....Shoulda been more clear. I use the thick black truck bunjees that 'chuck said. The short ones, maybe 9 inchers? When you stash your extra outside chain, stick the end link down thru a side link(as tight as you can get it )before hooking the bungee hook to it. Make those bungees snug, put a good stretch on 'em...... when putting on the bungees, I make sure the hooks point outward to keep from puncturing a tire if you get against a rock/log/obstacle.

another bungee hint.... Most come with open S-Hooks on the ends. Use a chain plier and CLOSE the ones in the rubber

We have always made our p/u chains out of heavy truck chains, cut down. Only a couple extra links on either side, makes it a little harder to put on sometimes. Make them as tight as possible, drive a little, grab and pull hard, retighten. We rarely use bungies, there is not much to sling around, but don't use them on highway. Used to throw chains on the log truck multiple times a day. No big deal if you have figured it out, and practice. If you can find ones that fit, a few small clevis (do not know the plural) can be used to fix a broken chain quickly, but they must fit inside the links.

This is another of those threads that cause learning to occur. Thanks guys.


mike r

Well, here is what the front end looks like. May be a little tight. I can barely fit one finger here. The rear seems fine though, a little more room between the tire and shock than what is seen here.

Back in the 70's and early 80's I was a supervisor in a factory (ACCO) that made about 1/2 of the tire chains in the U.S. at the time. (The V-bar was originally an ACCO innovation.) After transferring to the Engineering dept., one of my first tasks was to destruction test tire chains, in the summer, in a Ford Torino wagon, all day on back roads at a steady 35mph, and record cross chain and side chain breakages as they occurred (testing new designs/steel alloys). My buddy and I would load up in the morning with spare chains, sandwiches, drinks (more often than not six-packs of beer), and most importantly- ear muffs to deaden the sound of tire chains on pavement for 8 hours. At first it was a hoot- "Do you believe they're paying us to do this, ha ha!"- but after a couple days it wore thin, and lasted all summer. I think my butt is still vibrating from that experience...

I fixed up everybody I knew with chains for their cars/trucks.

One of my guys was a WWII vet who started riding Harleys back in the 30's, and all his life never owned a car or truck. His Harleys served him year 'round in all weather- and yes, he made his own custom tire chains for them. Pretty slick, but you should have seen him negotiating snow drifts that would have bogged down a car.

I see that you bought a set which is always smart to have, but for those that are traveling and want to have a set "just in case". Les Schwab Tires (stores all over western states) offers a purchase program where they will give a full refund any time if the boxes are still unopened. Never used it myself but might be handy if this is for one trip only.

I think you can't return them until spring, like sometime in April. I think they count on you losing your receipt by then.

I do the same, chain up before you need them.

The ones I get from them come in a decent plastic carry case. The ones I planned on returning, the receipt went in the carry case. No problems returning them later.

Now I keep two sets around (and use them) so I don't return them, but it is a nice program for those that might not have to use them.

Geno

It's a good program for those who want to take a winter trip in a car without good snow tires. 'Borrowing' a set of chains is a lot cheaper than a set of new tires.