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I have a Swedish Mauser that I love. It was one of the ones that Kimber bought and their gunsmiths customized. I was lucky and I got one that shoots better than I can shoot. I just love hunting with the rifle. I am having the cheap plastic stock dipped so it looks like expensive Burl wood. Yes it is a redneck upgrade. The question I have is what is correct stock torque specks for a Swedish Mauser when I put it back together? It shoots so well I don’t want to mess anything up. Thanks for any and all help, Wes

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Frey:

I have the Swedish Mauser original military M-98, all matching numbers bought from an estate collection. Won't touch it for modification.

Just so that you know I spoke to Mitchell Mauser last week at great length and they said the Swedish Mausers are GONE world wide. Prices have tripled.

I'm sorry to say that I don't understand what your are asking about stock torque when you put it back together??

I always use authentic walnut burl and free float the barrel. Mine shoot 5/8" group at 100 yards. I glass bed the action and recoil lug and leave space between the barrel and foreram that I can slip paper through.

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Mine was already altered by Kimber or I wouldn't have had anything done to it. I guess I didn't explain my question very well. What I am asking is what inch pounds should I torque the stock screws to when I put the rifle back together?

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Your query is non=conformists. The screws ae apparently 1/4" front to back 1/4 -22 and back 1/4" 20 x 3/4 and 1/4} - 20X1/1/2".

Here are the torque recomehttps:

//www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/A_FastenerTorqueCharts.pdfdatonsa.

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You are STILL here ? ?


Originally Posted by William_E_Tibbe

I'm sorry to say that I don't understand what your are asking about stock torque when you put it back together??


From the 'wealth' of information you think you have........

there are many things by your own admission that you don't know.


Does that surprise anyone ?

It surprises me that you know enuff to admit that.


You remind me of a so-called 'gun writer' that found a job, I don't know how, and 'elementary handloaders' knew MORE than he did.

I just answered the ? then deleted it. I know exactly what the op is asking and why!!

As this thread continues you'll find out that others know too.


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I've had a Kimber sporterized Swede since 1995 when they first hit the market. I'm assuming yours still has the plastic stock that Kimber put on it. If that's the case; the stock was made by Ram-Line, or at least that's what mine came with. I couldn't tell you what torque specs to use in putting it back together. I snug things up without really cranking down on it, (how's that for specs?). Avoid getting things "farmer tight", (that's a Mule Deer term for overtightening). I would carefully check that stock for correct fit... Mine was rubbing on one side of the barrel, then I opened it up just enough for clearance so it would be free floated but to make a long story short the final solution and best accuracy came when I put a pressure point out near the end of the barrel channel in the forend for the barrel to rest on. Now it shoots like a champ along with some additional help from a Timney Sportsman trigger and a 3.5-10x 40mm Leupold.

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FryeBaby,

Instead of searching for torque specs, I'd "reverse torque" it, seeing how much torque it takes to loosen the screws as they are. You could then return them pretty closely after you replaced the stock.


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Thanks 22250rem. That is exactly the rifle I have. It has the cheap Ram-Line stock. I also removed some of the plastic in the barrel channel and mine shoots great. I also have a Timney trigger. I thought it shot so well it deserved a good trigger. I love the 6.5X55 caliber and I am going to try to find a Tikka in that caliber in the next few years. Yes I thinking I probably don't want to muscle up on it but then I was wondering since it is a military rifle that the specs might be kind of high. I will read the links and see what is posted. Thanks again.

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Thanks Mule Deer, I forgot to mention that is what I did and it was around 35 pounds on my cheap torque driver. So I figure it was between 35 and 40 pounds. But this is from me tightening it down when I took it a part to open the barrel channel about 20 years ago and then again to install the trigger. I didn't realize then that over or under tightening the screws can really change accuracy. So I either know more or I worry to much. LOL. In retrospect if it was shooting well before it will probably shoot well again at the same torque or as close my cheap wrench can achieve. I was mostly just wondering if the correct specs were quite a bit higher than what I had it torqued at. I don't think it would be lower. The Swedes sure made some nice rifles. Thanks again.

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http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=42818

Tightening method for rifles with single-piece stocks

Before doing anything, please remember that we are concerned with achieving a stable fixing of a complex piece of metal in a piece of (typically) rather old wood. We are not changing a wheel on a truck, so the “tighten it until it squeaks” attitude is out of place here.

The following procedure applies to all Mauser (and similar) actions with a threaded lug on the bottom of the barrel ring section of the receiver, and a corresponding boss/sleeve on the front of the trigger guard. If you can adjust the bedding so that when these meet, the wood is neither crushed nor loose, but compressed, i.e. still elastic, then the setup will not be critical with regard to screw torque. You simply tighten up the screws to what I term "2 fingers and thumbs tight" if you are using both hands on a wrench with a tommy bar (as you should), preferably fixed in a drill press (even better).

"2 fists tight" is not only pointless, it may damage the thread, bend the trigger guard, and crush the stock wood. And if you do damage the thread you will discover that the thread pitch is something unusual (=expensive) when you look for a tap and die to clean it up!

At several points there will be alternative solutions, and only you can make the “hands on” decision as to which is more appropriate.

Prodecure

To prevent the shock loading which is caused by firing from shifting the barreled system back in the stock, the recoil lug must be bearing properly on the recoil cross-bolt (in Mauser-style systems) or the equivalent portion of the stock.


If the system can be driven back by the shock of firing, then that tends to cause a splitting of the neck - if there is not sufficient clearance behind the tang. The tang is forced into the recess in the stock, where it spreads and finally splits the wood at this point.


So first of all, assemble the rifle with the front trigger guard screw lightly tightened. Just enough to prevent slack. The rear trigger guard screw should also only be tight enough to stop the tang moving vertically.


Now hold the rifle upright, and bang the butt down very sharply on a piece of soft wood. This is to drive the system (and the tang) back as far as it will go. Inspect the wood around the tang. There must (not should - must) be a clear gap all around the tang. If the tang is jammed up into the end of the recess, then the rifle is a candidate for a neck split when firing real ammunition. The gap does not have to be huge - about 1/64 is adequate.


If there is no gap, remove the barreled system and carefully enlarge the edges of the recess until an adequate gap has been achieved. Alternatively, the recoil lug /bolt contact face can be shimmed to create the necessary tang clearance.


Now reassemble the rifle, applying a light torque on the front screw. Does the tang rise up out of the recess as you increase the torque? If so, the tang will indeed be bent when both screws are properly tightened. And so will the stock! The system is not properly bedded in the stock. It may be necessary to shave off tiny amounts of wood from the stock to achieve even bedding. Or, of course, use a bedding compound – but that’s another story.


However it may be that this is simply a result of wood movement over decades, and the bedding surface is flat enough. Loosen the trigger guard screws and see if the system can be rocked in the stock by pressing alternately at front and back.


If the system appears to sit quite flat, and the tang is well seated in the recess, then there is an alternative. When the front trigger guard screw is fully tightened it should compress the wood, to hold the system firmly but not crush it, which is a permanent distortion of the wood. The wood must remain elastic, and that is why the seating of the system in the stock should only be adjusted when any cleaning/re-oiling with linseed oilicon has already taken place, and (preferably) the stock has had a week or two to settle down.


The inevitable shrinkage of even well matured wood over the best part of a century may mean that if you tighten the screws up to a plausible torque you are, in fact, not just squeezing the wood but also bending the stock. This is a recipe for making a rifle that reacts badly to changes of temperature and humidity, and must be avoided.


On some of my rifles I have therefore judiciously used shim washers between the sleeve on the trigger guard and the threaded boss on the system, so that when the metal surfaces meet, the wood is compressed, but not crushed. Think of the wood as being a very fat spring washer - it should be neither crushed flat nor sloppy.


If you get it right, the tang will not rise more than a gnat’s whisker when you tighten the front trigger guard screw to full torque. The gnat's whisker is desirable so that when you tighten the rear trigger guard screw it is also compressing the wood, but not crushing it. Here too, careful use of shim washers may also be indicated.


Well, that’s the way I do it. It may not be theoretically perfect, but the results show that it’s not a bad method. The use of an expression such as “gnat’s whisker” is just facing up to the fact that, in the end, a certain amount of feeling is required.

And, finally, after shooting a refurbished rifle a while (say, 20 shots) check it all again! I forgot that the first time with my M1917 and had the unnerving experience of finishing a competition by holding over to keep the shots in the black, because the system had loosened up!

Give it a try!

_________________________________________________________

That applies to wood stocks. I have observed that my wood stocks will swell on high humidity days and seasons. That surely changes the pressure or compression on the screws. Synthetic stocks presumably won't react in the same manner.

_________________________________________________

Torque inch pound figures.

http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-555527.html

Looks like 50 - 65 inch pound range is mentioned a lot.

___________________________________________


http://www.amazon.com/The-Mauser-through-bolt-actions/dp/B0006EY9M0

Last edited by William_E_Tibbe; 08/17/15.
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Originally Posted by FryeBaby
... it was around 35 pounds on my cheap torque driver. So I figure it was between 35 and 40 pounds.


Don't forget that inch pounds and foot pounds differ by a factor of twelve.


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slumlord has one
nice rifle
did some stock work and trigger work on it for him
accurate rifle with the old school ammo he had for it
I bet that rifle would shoot bug hole groups with some of todays loadings for it

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Not what you asked, but I'm in a sharing mood today. I've worked on a bunch of Swedish Mausers for myself and a Norwegian bachelor farmer friend who is nuts about anything Scandinavian. On rifles that aren't collectible, I like to do these three modifications:

1. Install a Dayton-Traister Cock-On-Opening kit.
2. Install a commercial style bolt shroud with a larger gas shield.
3. Install a Bold or Timney trigger with an integral safety.

1, because I don't like the cock-on-closing design. A personal thing, not mission critical.
2, because the primary weakness of the pre-1898 small ring military Mausers is their deficiency in handling escaping gas in the event of a blown primer or a ruptured/separated case.
3, because installation of the commercial style bolt shroud eliminated the original wing safety.

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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
Not what you asked, but I'm in a sharing mood today. I've worked on a bunch of Swedish Mausers for myself and a Norwegian bachelor farmer friend who is nuts about anything Scandinavian. On rifles that aren't collectible, I like to do these three modifications:

1. Install a Dayton-Traister Cock-On-Opening kit.
2. Install a commercial style bolt shroud with a larger gas shield.
3. Install a Bold or Timney trigger with an integral safety.

1, because I don't like the cock-on-closing design. A personal thing, not mission critical.
2, because the primary weakness of the pre-1898 small ring military Mausers is their deficiency in handling escaping gas in the event of a blown primer or a ruptured/separated case.
3, because installation of the commercial style bolt shroud eliminated the original wing safety.


_____________________________________________________

What I like most about this site is the very high degree of very experienced and knowledgeable posters. And the meticulous precision.

Really excellent points well taken and stowed in memory banks. Thanks.

Personally I am affectioned to the double set triggers which I install on my Mausers. Just my fetish. I regularly make killing shots on all kinds of running game with double sets regularly usually up to 200 yards. *( 1 to 5 shots )I don't normally shoot past 200.

Lucky I suppose but I book 6 day hunts and kill/connect before noon first day. I'm out of there by Wednesday on my way home.


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I've had one of these since Kimber first offered them as well. I've had it apart several times to float the barrel and bed the recoil lug. I too added a Timney trigger. The last couple of times I had it apart once it was shooting really good I used the technique that Mule Deer suggested and got the torque close to what it was. Seemed to work fine as it shoots like it did prior to coming apart.

Anyway these are great rifles. I have to fight my two nieces to be able to hunt with it anymore. They have kind of taken it over. Extremely low recoil and muzzle blast and it flattens animals. Mine will stack the 129 grain Horn into very tight groups.

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Originally Posted by FryeBaby
I have a Swedish Mauser that I love. It was one of the ones that Kimber bought and their gunsmiths customized. I was lucky and I got one that shoots better than I can shoot. I just love hunting with the rifle. I am having the cheap plastic stock dipped so it looks like expensive Burl wood. Yes it is a redneck upgrade. The question I have is what is correct stock torque specks for a Swedish Mauser when I put it back together? It shoots so well I don’t want to mess anything up. Thanks for any and all help, Wes


OMG that's funny. Those rifles came in by the shipping container load and were disassembled, hacked, refinished and then put back together by a bunch of $6-$7 an-hour folks. No offense intended but guessing most of them would be pleased to learn of their gunsmithing background. I recall an abrasive chop saw rigged up for cutting the bolts handles off for re-welding... It was a rough and tumble process and kicked off at the start of '95, initially reusing the original barrels, which must have been darn good. Some rifles came beat to hell, others practically unissued. Those Ramline stocks were like $10? Can't imagine you can harm anything, go just under farmer tight. BTW: Jack Warne himself TIG welded the bluing tanks used for this process. Oh, employee price for the rifles straight out of the container was $58 IIRC. Gawd, that was 20 years ago, maybe it was $68? Anyways, love to see pics of an upcustomized uber-stock when you get it done. grin


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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
Not what you asked, but I'm in a sharing mood today. I've worked on a bunch of Swedish Mausers for myself and a Norwegian bachelor farmer friend who is nuts about anything Scandinavian. On rifles that aren't collectible, I like to do these three modifications:

1. Install a Dayton-Traister Cock-On-Opening kit.
2. Install a commercial style bolt shroud with a larger gas shield.
3. Install a Bold or Timney trigger with an integral safety.

1, because I don't like the cock-on-closing design. A personal thing, not mission critical.
2, because the primary weakness of the pre-1898 small ring military Mausers is their deficiency in handling escaping gas in the event of a blown primer or a ruptured/separated case.
3, because installation of the commercial style bolt shroud eliminated the original wing safety.


Excellent points! I've got 2 Kimber/Swedes and really like them; but your suggested mods are good suggestions.

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I bought mine as an investment about a decade or so ago. All matching serials and still in the cosmoline (didn't look very used at all). Then I started researching what I had previously considered as the "wimpy little Mauser brother". Ballistic coefficients through the roof, plenty of powder capacity and tons of reloading options.

So I purchased one of those "Cheap Ramline drop-in stocks", sporterized it, chopped the barrel to 25" with a target crown and drilled and tapped the barrel just forward of the action which was perfect for a Burris handgun scope. Effectively making a Cooper-esque Scout Rifle. Its a far better shooter than I am.

My gunsmith thought the idea was great and promptly began projects for several other Mauser owners he had previously told to buy other rifles.

By the way, the rifle shoots spectacularly and I had no idea about torqued screws when I put the stock on. Maybe I got lucky!


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