Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Rimfires Finally said screw it and decided to build a tackdriver from scratch

You think the Leupold is to big but your considering the Bushnell, hmmm.

The Leup 3.5 - 10 x 40 A.O. is probably my favorite scope for most jobs and rifles. Lacking the A.O. I'd save it for a centerfire or at least set the parralax to 50 yrds or so.

There again, you're the only one that has to be pleased with the set-up.


Dave.

Dave, "too big for" was referring to the gun that I originally bought the scope for that it didn't go on.

The 3.5-10x40 is not AO.

Cheers.

Just waiting on the stock now. Should be in tomorrow. UPS doesn't deliver today. Darn.

Put the lightest spring in. I forget what color it is. It will cycle everything.

Woodson, there's one that has some red spray paint on it and one that has nothing on it.

...I have to agree...and I have shot a lot of 10/22s...

That said I think he was talking about a RUGER 10/22. What is being built here is of the basic 10/22 design but is not exactly a "Ruger"....not even the receiver. It is like comparing an off the showroom Camero to one that someone has put $50K in high performance parts into to make it track ready...both will go around the track but one is always going to get to the finish line first.

A semi-auto tack driver would be great...but from everything I have seen and read it comes with a hefty price tag...

I think the OP's project is great and can't wait to see how it shoots...

Bob

Just dropped the barreled action and stock off to my gunnie to be inletted, mounted, and possibly lightly glassed this afternoon. After a few whirlwind, but very enlightening conversations with my gunnie and another gunnie out in AK who knows one of my long time buds very well, the answers to my many questions boiled down to just a few answers.

While both gunnies are fully capable of completely glass bedding the action, doing the pillaring, and floating the barrel, both advised me against it. It may turn a 3/8" gun into a 1/4" gun at 50 yds, but why bother?

Their consensus opinions were to simply inlet the stock, maybe maybe a little glass under the chamber, and make sure the barrel floats in its channel. Cost? Quote from my local gunnie - $60-75. Both fellas figured this to make it a .5" gun all day every day, possibly better, and I can definitely live with that.

Been spending most of my research time over the last couple days looking at cans for this rifle and some pistols. My findings thus far are leading me to believe that monolithic cores are the better way to go. YMMV.

Best to All.
LD

Bob, I am inclined to agree with you in that 10/22 semi-auto's are probably not going to make it to tack driver, one ragged hole status. But, may get close, which is really what I'm trying to accomplish here.

You may be familiar with what both my and my buddy's gunnies advised for out of the box reliability regarding a .22lr tack driver. It's called a CZ 452. Ring a bell?

Change the parallax on that Leupold yourself. Won't take but 15 minutes or so. I just did that very thing to my Leupold VARI X III 3.5-10 x 40 that I just mounted on my .22 LR

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/10414282/Re:_Changing_Parallax_Yourself#Post10414282

Just don't try to do the above to a scope with an adjustable objective lense. Just FYI

Bed the barrel float the action

Thanks

How is this accomplished?? How is the barrel attached to the stock??

avagado, I think he just had it backwards.

actually this is not the first time i've heard of someone doing this with a 10/22 but i have not seen the actual results from anyone either.
i would be very interested in hearing more on the process if it is really being done.

My build may have some glass bedding under the action, and possibly the chamber, to be sure the barrel floats properly.

Out of the box vs. custom makes a BIG difference.

Here's one with a Walther by Clark, trigger job I did using Clark parts. I glassed it and installed a trigger stop (Brownells). This one has a can and is really quiet. It'll shoot one hole at 50' with Rem. Subsonics, even better with W/W Wildcats.

DF

You may want to rethink that. If the barrel is screwed in the action, maybe.

With the Ruger barrel retaining set up, you're better off with the barrel glassed and the action screw pulling against the barrel lock up. You can glass the lug, but IME, the barrel needs to be under tension due to how Ruger engineered it.

I also fitted the barrel pretty tight in the action, which seems to help.

DF

no not backwards ,I think some research is in order by some

I think he's saying about the same thing I said. Glass the barrel in the forward channel. Let the action screw put downward pressure on the lug. The retaining lug is on the bottom. By pulling downward, it stiffens the barrel/action joint. A tight receiver/barrel fit helps. Aftermarket barrels often have the action shank slightly oversize to be cut down until a tight barrel/receiver fit is obtained. I actually glass the bottom of the lug with downward pressure on the barrel/recieiver. The lug under some pressure, sitting in glass seems to me to stiffen the jumction even more and may dampen vibration.

Some custom jobs actually thread and screw the barrel into the receiver, eliminating the Ruger lug set up. Some aftermarket receivers are steel, not aluminum.

With the factory Ruger barrel retaining lug set up, doing it as described works well. I wouldn't float a barrel that wasn't threaded and screwed into a receiver. And, even then, I'm not sure it would be any better than what I've described.

Others may want to chime in. One hole groups sorta make a statement.

DF