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Joined: Sep 2010
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Campfire 'Bwana
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OP
Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 31,402 |
Previously just used rattlecan paints and got great texture with Rustoleum Multi-Color Textured but Duracoat isn't compatible IIRC.
Anyone know what works, or doesn't?
Can go low pressure and kinda splatter it on, anything else? Hit with a heavy coat and sprinkle ulrafine sand? There is Duracoat Soft Sand but I'm seeking an alternative. Globbing epoxy on isn't really what I'm after. Just a bit of texture to break up the surface...
"I can't be canceled, because, I don't give a fuuck!"
--- Kid Rock 2022
Holocaust Deniers, the ultimate perverted dipchits: Bristoe, TheRealHawkeye, stophel, Ghostinthemachine, anyone else?
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 78,300
Campfire Oracle
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Campfire Oracle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 78,300 |
I just used Krylon webbing paint to texture the M7 stock mentioned elsewhere...but Duracoat is gonna be thicker than the paint Im using so Im not sure if it would work and look OK for you.
Last edited by ingwe; 09/07/15.
"...the left considers you vermin, and they'll kill you given the chance..." Bristoe
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,126
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,126 |
There are a few items I've used for various degrees of coarseness. For a very coarse feel, add roughly 1/8-1/4 tsp of Sharkgrip paint additive per Tablespoon of paint(used often on paint at steps or ladders to make them slip-reesistant). You can find it at a paint store like Sherwin Williams.
For a less aggressive texture, use epoxy microballoons that you can get at a hobby store. Use a similar ratio as above. This will feel very similar to a Kimber Montana stock.
Finally, my preferred texture, is to use the microballoons like above, but I paint a texture coat on before the actual color coat. You will only need a about 1 tablespoon of paint for this part. Turn your pressure way down, and paint volume up, so you will get the paint spatter effect. With the microballoons, you can get a texture similar to a mcmillan stock.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 26,095 |
I've used automotive undercoating with great results. I've heard of people using spray in truck bed liner but haven't tried it myself.
I learned on the first one I did to let the undercoating dry before spraying the color. I didn't and it changed the shade. If your doing a web finish you really don't need anything else, at least in my experience, but I haven't used Duracoat.
Dave.
Those who are always shooting off at the mouth usually aren't shooting straight. Build a man a fire and he’ll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire and he’ll be warm for the rest of his life. www.wvcdl.org
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 31,402
Campfire 'Bwana
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OP
Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 31,402 |
I just used Krylon webbing paint to texture the M7 stock mentioned elsewhere...but Duracoat is gonna be thicker than the paint Im using so Im not sure if it would work and look OK for you. Thanks. I think Duracoat is uber-thin. It's not completely clear to me what works but I've seen enough orange peel to realize two-part coatings don't jibe well with one-part coatings like the Krylon. Sure like the durability of the Duracoat better as well as two-part automotive clearcoat, which is definitely a no-go over rattlecan. As I mentioned before, the Rustoleum Textured, covered with another color and/or clearcoat to level out as desired, really turns out well in my eye. Just trying to up the durability. There are a few items I've used for various degrees of coarseness. For a very coarse feel, add roughly 1/8-1/4 tsp of Sharkgrip paint additive per Tablespoon of paint(used often on paint at steps or ladders to make them slip-reesistant). You can find it at a paint store like Sherwin Williams.
For a less aggressive texture, use epoxy microballoons that you can get at a hobby store. Use a similar ratio as above. This will feel very similar to a Kimber Montana stock.
Finally, my preferred texture, is to use the microballoons like above, but I paint a texture coat on before the actual color coat. You will only need a about 1 tablespoon of paint for this part. Turn your pressure way down, and paint volume up, so you will get the paint spatter effect. With the microballoons, you can get a texture similar to a mcmillan stock. Thanks - I think the microballoons is exactly what I'm after. I'll give it a try.
Last edited by MtnBoomer; 09/07/15.
"I can't be canceled, because, I don't give a fuuck!"
--- Kid Rock 2022
Holocaust Deniers, the ultimate perverted dipchits: Bristoe, TheRealHawkeye, stophel, Ghostinthemachine, anyone else?
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Joined: Apr 2011
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 12,100 |
I have a couple stocks with Shark Grip additive in the top coat Be aware, there are two levels of coarseness to the Shark grip. The stuff I got off eBay is more like 80 grit sand paper when mixed with clear coat. My gun smith has a bulk can that is more like 180 to 220 grit finish. I am O.K. with the coarse stuff on my stocks. But, had to lightly sand it off of the comb to leave the skin on my cheek. 
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Joined: Sep 2010
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Campfire 'Bwana
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OP
Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 31,402 |
The sandpaper cheek effect can be achieved with Rustoleum Textured also!
I just ordered roughly a quadrillion microballoons (microspheres) to try. Seems they'd be hady in some filling uses too as they're intended. Good stuff.
"I can't be canceled, because, I don't give a fuuck!"
--- Kid Rock 2022
Holocaust Deniers, the ultimate perverted dipchits: Bristoe, TheRealHawkeye, stophel, Ghostinthemachine, anyone else?
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 17,094
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 17,094 |
I just used Krylon webbing paint to texture the M7 stock mentioned elsewhere...but Duracoat is gonna be thicker than the paint Im using so Im not sure if it would work and look OK for you. I've done the same and when finished I've followed up with MINWAX polyurethane clear satin for a couple of coats. It's holding up pretty well. But I take the view I can always redo it; its on a bang-about rifle so I expect it will get scratched and chipped again. Edit: that's with Krylon with texture.
Last edited by George_De_Vries_3rd; 09/07/15.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 47,948
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 47,948 |
Previously just used rattlecan paints and got great texture with Rustoleum Multi-Color Textured but Duracoat isn't compatible IIRC.
Anyone know what works, or doesn't?
Can go low pressure and kinda splatter it on, anything else? Hit with a heavy coat and sprinkle ulrafine sand? There is Duracoat Soft Sand but I'm seeking an alternative. Globbing epoxy on isn't really what I'm after. Just a bit of texture to break up the surface... Roll on some herculiner... 
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 78,300
Campfire Oracle
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Campfire Oracle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 78,300 |
I just used Krylon webbing paint to texture the M7 stock mentioned elsewhere...but Duracoat is gonna be thicker than the paint Im using so Im not sure if it would work and look OK for you. I've done the same and when finished I've followed up with MINWAX polyurethane clear satin for a couple of coats. It's holding up pretty well. But I take the view I can always redo it; its on a bang-about rifle so I expect it will get scratched and chipped again. Edit: that's with Krylon with texture. George, thats almost exactly my plan. I sprayed some webbing on between the first two coats of paint, will spray finish webbing on after third coat of paint, and spray a clear satin fixative over it all.Wish me luck! Rattle Can Rembrandt rides again! 
"...the left considers you vermin, and they'll kill you given the chance..." Bristoe
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 31,402
Campfire 'Bwana
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OP
Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 31,402 |
Hope to see the ingwemasterpiece when done. Pure rattlecan on the stock. This has grey Rustoleum Multicolor Textured, then a misting of green, then lots of clearcoat. Seems durable but hasn't bit out much yet. Once I got started with the two-part finish stuff - it's so much tougher on the metalwork I'd like to stick with it. 721-06-PT&G-RS-Meopta ![[Linked Image]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bNmni53Hcgg/VRGf-ABLwqI/AAAAAAAAGJs/FfisOw03ypQ/s800-Ic42/P1000299.JPG) Takes quite a bit of clearcoat to un-sandpaper it. ![[Linked Image]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E-aX-X5lACI/VRGgAElrO-I/AAAAAAAAGJs/_oDdpNXtHjE/s800-Ic42/P1000302.JPG)
"I can't be canceled, because, I don't give a fuuck!"
--- Kid Rock 2022
Holocaust Deniers, the ultimate perverted dipchits: Bristoe, TheRealHawkeye, stophel, Ghostinthemachine, anyone else?
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 78,300
Campfire Oracle
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Campfire Oracle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 78,300 |
I will post before and after pics when done. at this stage I hope black webbing on tan hides a lot of ills...... 
"...the left considers you vermin, and they'll kill you given the chance..." Bristoe
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