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I would love to know what makes a scope actually physically hold zero and what is the best way? Which brand is best for holding zero? Thanks. Rob.

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All sorts of things, including the spring material, placement and type of springs, the material of the erector tube, thickness of the main tube, and how the pieces are screwed together. In some scopes the screws are just tightened down, while at the other extreme some use permanent Loct-Tite-type compounds, essentially making the scopes “sealed units” that have to be completely replaced rather than repaired.

Everybody has an opinion on the toughest scopes, and toughness also depends on what you’re mounting them on.


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Originally Posted by cath8r
I would love to know what makes a scope actually physically hold zero and what is the best way? Which brand is best for holding zero? Thanks. Rob.


They have to be built to withstand what you're doing.



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Just coyote hunting, varminting, shooting and getting bumped around. I'd like to know who's scope has a great reputation for maintaining zero and being well made. I really like leupold but have a thing for the nightforce shv. My question was more for info and knowledge. Mule deer has a way of describing and teaching. Although I do despise poi shifts out of the blue.

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Which companies use , in your opinion, the best springs, materials and process?

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Start with a 2-7 Leupold. They stand behind them. They are not heavy. A heavy scope might move more.

You can use that scope on almost any hunting rifle.

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The Leupold friction adjustments did not move in my experience and once you had a load and a scope set you were good to go season after season.


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I can't speak to the exact reasons some scopes his hold zero better than others. Likely has to do with th materials such as erector springs, and tolerances allowed by the makers. As to your second question on companies that build these good scopes,I can tell you that SWFA makes a rock solid dependable scope at a very good price.I dont have a Night Force or a Schmidt and Bender but they ha e excellent reputations for dependability, but they are expensive. But they are likely worth it.

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I can't speak to the exact reasons some scopes will hold zero better than others. Likely has to do with th materials such as erector springs, and tolerances allowed by the makers. As to your second question on companies that build these good scopes,I can tell you that SWFA makes a rock solid dependable scope at a very good price.I dont have a Night Force or a Schmidt and Bender but they have excellent reputations for dependability, but they are expensive. But they are likely worth it.

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Don't forget that a top quality scope on cheap mounts can cause problems too.


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Good times create weak men. And, weak men create hard times.

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Originally Posted by cath8r
I would love to know what makes a scope actually physically hold zero and what is the best way? Which brand is best for holding zero? Thanks. Rob.


My personal favorite is the 1.5-6x42 S&B.
I have multiple examples.
You will bitch about the price and the weight.
dave


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Originally Posted by cath8r
Just coyote hunting, varminting, shooting and getting bumped around. I'd like to know who's scope has a great reputation for maintaining zero and being well made. I really like leupold but have a thing for the nightforce shv. My question was more for info and knowledge. Mule deer has a way of describing and teaching. Although I do despise poi shifts out of the blue.



The shv 4-14 x 56 is a big scope, be sure you look at it before mounting it. I ordered one and sent it back for a 2.5-10 x 42 NXS. Everyone has there opinions, but if a lot of people are raving about the great service a company offers that tells you something.






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Mule Deer offered a quick overview. Maintaining zero on a rifle also includes the rifle build, bedding, and bases and mounts.

As far as scopes- the lowest failure rate of any U.S. issues sniper optic has been the Nightforce NXS's. To put it into perspective the issued Schmidt and Bender has a failure rate four times higher than the NXS..... Leupolds not even close.


From seeing several hundred thousand rounds a year fired, about the only scopes that just work consistently are NF, SWFA SS and Bushnells HDMR/ERS series of scopes.

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Thanks guys. My main rifle I'd like to mount something like this on is a custom .22-250. Shv 4-14 might be the perfect powe range

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Ah yes, here we go again. Funny thing is the US military uses alot Leupolds that apparently work very well for them.
Nightforce has secured no significant contracts from the US military unless I missed something recently.
Alot of shooters here use all of the above as well. Funny we haven't seen anything like such "failure rates."
I'm sure alot of S&B users will be surprised to find that their favorite scopes do so poorly. E


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Originally Posted by Oheremicus
Ah yes, here we go again. Funny thing is the US military uses alot Leupolds that apparently work very well for them.
Nightforce has secured no significant contracts from the US military unless I missed something recently.




Nightforce was chosen for a contract for $25 million worth of sniper day scopes in 2010 for multiple branches.

http://www.defenseindustrydaily.com/258-Million-for-Nightforce-Sniper-Dayscopes-06382/



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Lol "...here we go again..."


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Originally Posted by MtnBoomer
Lol "...here we go again..."


Everyone knows that nothing beats a Tasco World Class scope.
...because it says "World Class." sick

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
All sorts of things, including the spring material, placement and type of springs, the material of the erector tube, thickness of the main tube, and how the pieces are screwed together. In some scopes the screws are just tightened down, while at the other extreme some use permanent Loct-Tite-type compounds, essentially making the scopes “sealed units” that have to be completely replaced rather than repaired.

Everybody has an opinion on the toughest scopes, and toughness also depends on what you’re mounting them on.


One of the things that makes the Bushnell Elites so tough is the reticle cell is cemented in, then secured with a threaded steel ring which also has screws going through the threaded ring itself. Triple secured.

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