Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Remington 700 and model seven trigger recall

I have a model seven .222 that I purchased for my son 3 years ago. According to the serial number, it is eligible for free trigger replacement. It seems that in order to send it in, I would need to remove the scope. I realize it may seem silly to some, but I spent lots of time and effort to get the scope mounted so that the crosshairs I are oriented "nearly perfectly" horizontal and vertical and also in sighting in the rifle. In short, I just really don't want to take it off and go through that again. I was thinking of just replacing the trigger with a Timney.

1) would that correct any potential issues that have sparked the recall of these triggers?
2) is that something I could do without need of a gunsmith?

Yes it would correct any potential problems, and yes, unless you've done Remington triggers before, I'd recommend a gunsmith install it.......


An option is to have the gunsmith go through your factory remington trigger ( if it is the old Walker design) clean it up inside and out and make sure the adjustments are OK. I find them to be safe, reliable triggers, properly cared for.

Differing opinions exist, so go with your gut.

The Timney is a sure bet.

"2) is that something I could do without need of a gunsmith?"

I found it to be a pretty easy install, but have also
worked on triggers prior to installing in a 700ml and a
788. Knock out a couple of pins with a drift punch, pull
the existing trigger, replace and punch the pins back in.
The adjusting screw and lock nut on the front of the
trigger required using a dremel tool on the stock for
relief, but the rest was a piece of cake.

Hmm - is there a S/N from Rem that doesn't require a trigger replacement??? Skip #1 and go right to #2... The Timney's an good replacement and you can do it rather easily.. If you've not done one before, just turn the action over and note the orientation of the spring that places tension on the bolt release.. Note it's short tail clips over the slot just behind the trigger.

Short pin goes in front first; ensure the back end is flush with the receiver wall and not interfering with bolt stop travel.

Longer pin goes in the back of the trigger housing - bolt stop first, then spring (a bit of a pita to hold with the nose of the pin until it starts in the hole, then swing the trigger housing into place and push the rear pin in the final way.. Leave just a bit of the head outside the bolt stop.

When installing the pins they should go in with some resistence.. If it takes more than rather light taps with a pin punch then stop and make sure the trigger housing holes line up.. Do NOT really bang on those pins.. I've had a couple rifles in where the owner (or 'gunsmith buddy') really whacked on 'em and now they're bent and interfering with trigger movement and settings.. Just FYI...