Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Custom Rifles & Wildcats Debating my 1st custom build

More marginal stability................3 more heavy's @ 400

Factory 8" twist...........

Congratulations! You've discovered that you don't need optimal stabilization to achieve accuracy at short range!

I'm guesing you bought a barrel recently and it's important to you that others are as short sided as you in their selection?

What were the downsides to extra twist?

David

Keep guessing...................

I'm not guessing about you being an ignorant dumaba$$.


What were the downsides to additional twist again?


David

You might actually try shooting some time...............

It's a wise choice for you to avoid discussing any particulars. It's the only real choice you had.

David

Seriously is that the best you can do?

maybe you can hang some pics of your 8" twisted 223 that won't stabilize the heavies............

I have an 8" twisted 223, shoots 75amax's beautifully. For a factory rifle available off the shelf it was a good choice. If I'm going to buy a custom made barrel I'm going to get it in a 7" twist so that it will fully stabilize the 75amax and perhaps some future bullets that aren't being made yet (22cal Barnes LRX comes to mind).

The difference between fully stabilized and marginally stabilized is fully explained in the link I provided. It also very clearly states that it may be possible to shoot really good groups w/ marginally stabilized rifle/bullet combinations. The main improvement is increased BC.

Increased BC with the same projectile is a free ride that's always appreciated - moreso in a case of limited capacity. The increased twist rate has no negative effects, group sizes don't suffer, light bullets still shoot great, you don't lose any velocity. Seeing how there is no downside and a small (but noticeable) upside to the faster twist, I would specify a faster (7") twist on a custom ordered barrel.

Start another thread if you want to discuss it in more detail quit hacking up the OP's thread. I'm done responding to you in this thread.

David

I would caution you on that heavy of a barrel for the 308. I have a varmint contour 260 thinking it would be a good learning tool for shooting long. In Indiana, it's not that easy, as you know to find a place to shoot long. I'd opt for something in the 8# or so range. You'll like it better when you take it hunting and it's plenty heavy enough to enjoy at the range.

pointer,

yes, I was re-thinking the heavy barrel contour thing on the 308Win. Agree with you on the Indiana thing.

If only building one rifle, I'd split the difference and do a good magnum-sporter weight rig in a SA 6.5mm chambering, like the Creed or the 260. With a 22"-23" #3 or #4, it wouldn't be too terribly heavy and would be enjoyable at the range. Like others have said, build for balance. A standard-fill stock would work better here than an Edge. A 22" #3 contour Creed in a McMillan Hunter would be hard not to like, and good factory target/hunting loads abound, should someone get in a position to not handload.

This is a splendid idea. And perhaps it's because it describes my recent Creed build to a tee.

I'd build an 8 or 7 twisted .223. #3ish contour finished @ 20". No more than a 1" shank.

Make sure you know what your limit is going to be for COAL. Seat some dummy cartridges accordingly and make sure the smith understands why you are including them in the box.

DBM's can limit COAL, they can also increase COAL. Depends what we're going to use on the build.

If this is going to be primarily a range toy and hunting from a blind, I'd not hesitate to go heavy as fugk on the barrel and put it in an A5. Just a thought.

I wouldn't look past a 10X Super Sniper for glass. Maybe the 3-9X HD if you want a variable.


Travis

Well, I'd say you chose wisely..... grin....

I wanted something for (mostly) range time, but that would double over for light BG in open country, and pestering coyotes and other varmints. The result is a short Rem 700 action,Timney trigger,a #3 fluted Benchmark barrel at 25", and an Echols Shrike. Chambering is 6.5 Creedmoor.



It's being bedded now so I don't know what it weighs. Not a big concern because I was not trying for a super lightweight rifle but think it will come in around 8 pounds,but if it goes a bit heavier I'm not concerned. Considering it's intended use it's a belly gun anyway,and I suspect it will do what I want.

I hear the Hornady factory ammo is excellent so am laying in a supply,along with brass,bullets, and dies. Im guessing this will be a cakewalk. We'll see.

You have been given a lot of advice, some good and IMO some not so good. Threads like these invariably bring out responses of what folks would like to build for themselves.

First of all you need to define "big game". If big game is deer then you are just fine with the 223 idea. I can guarantee that you will shoot a 223 much more than a 308, you will also enjoy shooting it much more than a 308, and you will save some money in powder and bullet costs.
If deer is to be your big game and you go with the 223 I disagree with the fast twist/heavy for caliber bullets. It is a fact that the slower twists, even 1-12 stablilize a 55 gr very well and give the best accuracy, if you have any doubts about this take a look at what the benchrest boys shoot for twists. In order to kill a deer a premium 55 gr bullet will do just fine (take a look at some of Ingwe's posts).

Why not build a custom in a caliber that you will enjoy shooting, shoot a lot and if you should decide to hunt big game (larger than deer) buy an appropriate caliber off the shelf rifle for that endeavor. Especially since you have stated that you are mostly just shooting paper and a fun range gun.

Just my opinion like everyone else who has posted but I do enjoy the small calibers and of them for what you mentioned it seems that a 223 would fill the bill.

drover

Lots of money spent on LH customs that will not shoot as well as the cheap Ruger LH Americans. Some things I do not like on them but tough to argue with results. 6.5 # LH rifle that is under $400 and they are very accurate.

This is the exact route I am taking. 6.5 Creed. Mine will be a 23" #4 Schneider that mikes about like a Rem sporter. If I had gone .223, I would have gone #3. Bansner custom stock w/adjustable cheek piece ( LGS fabricates his own). I already own a Tikka 8 twist .223. Although I don't have it in hand, I am comfortable based on LGS and much advise from here. Primary purpose is long range target, coyote, and backup big game (think deer, etc).

IM(left handed)O a rifle along these lines fits YOUR criteria perfectly. The 6.5 Creedmoor is an outstanding cartridge, and I suspect the more you shoot it the more you'll like it. The .308 is good too, but with the excellent Hornady factory ammo, less recoil and longer ranging capabilities the 6.5 Creedmoor is better.

Also WRT to calibers, stay away from the .223 in a full size action. Don't get me wrong, the .223 is an excellent caliber, but everyone I've had in a full size action with a box magazine has had feeding problems, which is extremely irritating in a custom build. The chances of a 6.5 Creedmoor feeding properly in a full size action are much higher. Plus in a standard twist barrel of 1/12" with 50/55 grain bullets it peeters out after about 350 yards.

I know you said this is mostly a range gun, but if sometime in the future you decide to attend a rifle training course, which are a LOT of fun and well worth the expense, the 6.5 Creedmoor will be perfect. The .308 would be good too, the .223 not as much.

I also like the idea of using a fiberglass stock instead of a carbon fiber edge for your first custom because it's been my experience the edge stocks are just a little harder to shoot well.

As for scopes, I'd recommend either a Bushnell 3-12 LRHS or a Zeiss HD5 2-10 with RapidZ 600 reticle depending on your focal plane preference and whether or not you like to dial or hold over/out.

Lots of experienced riflemen are building similar rigs, myself included. If you go this route, your first custom will be very nice. Good Luck!

LJB