Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting broad head sharpness

I have bought several different companies broadheads over the past several years. I have yet to find one that is sharp. This includes the ones with the "razor blade" inserts. The ones that are suppose to be "sharpen-able" are made of steel so hard I have not been able to sharpen them, even with diamond dust stones. I have also tried other types of sharpening methods, none of which work. I have no trouble sharpening pocket knives and scabbard knives. My first concern is why are the broadheads not sharp from the factory? I have watched videos showing how to sharpen the broadheads. They don't get sharp. Can some one shed some light on this subject for me?

This is your huckleberry

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgft_eUNQ28&sns=em [/video]

My Slick Tricks - always scary sharp out of the package.

I have had the exact same experience on lack of sharpness. I sharpen 100% of my of my BHs before hunting. I currently shoot Magnus stingers and slick trick mags.
I won't buy a BH unless it is sharpenable on a Lansky system. To sharpen them on a Lansky they must be a flat blade. Some BHs have blades that have a bend in them to lock them into the fertile. Those won't work on a Lansky. By the way, the Lansky system that I am talking about is a clamp system that holds the blade and the sharpening is done with three or four stones that have guide rods. I sharpen at 20 degree angle. Using a medium, then fine and then a very fine stone. I have tried with poor results diamond stones. The stones that use oil lubricant work great for me.

I've had a couple packs of Rages that the blades were stamped, but never sharpened. The Rages blades that are sharp, will lose their edge in a quiver insert, if you aren't checking them.

I quit using G-5 Montecs because I couldn't get an edge on them that I liked. I thought the steel in them was a bit brittle, as I broke a couple heads on stump shots into rotten trees and soft ground.



My experience as well.

I routinely use Slick Tricks for fixed heads, and the Rages for expanding, and have had good results with the NAP Killzones.

I think some of the sharpness is lost in the packaging, seems like some broadheads can rattle and contact the blister packaging, which I think can take and edge off over time.

Nothing scientific, just impressions over time, trail, and error.

There is a setup thats dangerous as heck, I still use it, uses a grinder and cardboard paper wheels for abrasives and polish rouge.

File em right, touch em up on the grinder for me. If a ceramic stick won't touch em up good enough.

Used to also be blocks shaped for certain heads... I forget where mine are and what brand.

They don't need to be razor sharp, but whatever you do don't get to fine of an angle that would strip off as you pass through ribs etc... But I try to have all mine razor sharp.

If you go the grinder route, make the wheels spin away from you, sharpen on the top as you can catch an edge and you will die likely if the head is flipped into your gut under power... I"ve had a couple flip towards the wall, thats much better. I don't loose them though as I sharpen them touch up on short 12 inch or so arrow shaft as a handle.

The lansky type setups work fine too, just really time consuming.