Home Forums Reloading Varmint Rifles LC brass vs Rem

What is the typical reduction in charge when going from Remington brass to LC?
Been using 26-26.5 grains of Benchmark with 50gr Vmax for 3350

In .223, they are very similar in case capacity.
I load them the same.

Ditto on what antelope sniper said. I will say that the LC I had wasn't as good as the R-P. I sold all of my LC and only shoot R-P now... YMMV...

I am also standardizing around R-P brass in the .223.

All the LC ect goes into the "plinking" box.

LC 5.56 brass is lighter than R-P .223 Rem brass.

Random sample of 10 each.

R-P
93.8
96
94.8
95.6
89.4
94.2
96.4
94
94.8
94.8
943.8 AVE 94.38

LC
92.2
92.8
94.2
93
92.8
93
94.2
93
92
92.4
929.6 AVE 92.96

I like LC brass, once you get past the primer pocket reaming/swaging.

Michael

The difference in water capacity is even smaller. Not large enough to make a difference.

I use quite a bit of military case's but only with cast loads. I have tried military case's for 30-06, 308, 280, 243 and 223. The only military case's that I got anywhere near the accuracy out of were Lake City Match and they shoot very well. But any more for jacket bullet loads I use Remington or Winchester.

Thanks guys. It is .223.

Glad I asked as I was going to reduce by 1/2 grain. Was...

You still should do a workup.

Weigh 10 RPs and 10 LC's (deprimed just for insurance) and see what the aggregate weight is.

I really like Lake City, once the primer pocket issue is handled they are very good brass. Weigh-sorted LC brass with the usual detailed prep gives me brass that shoots better than I can.

Unless you know the metallurgy behind the brass, weight of the case doesn't tell you capacity. Volume and mass are different things.
This chart has been around for a while now.

I shoot mine out of bolt actions, not ARs...

but I've not had issues with Lake City, Federal, Winchester or Remington... and a host of other foreign brass.. pick it up as range brass.. keep it sorted so each batch is the same manufacture...

keep load records on 3 x 5 cards within, in a zip lock bag...

got batches that have gone 20, 30 and 40 reloads...and still going strong...

OK, can you show some examples where density of the brass varies enough to matter? Show us that it's metallurgy/density, not different external brass dimensions.

Darkker is the king of worrying about things that don't matter in the real world.

I have to chuckle a little when the subject of different kinds of brass is once more brought up.
I ended that dilemma for myself when I invested in two thousand pieces of once fired LC brass all of the same year mfg. After going through the sizing with a small base die, trimming, and decrimping, I just build my load around this brass without having to worry about capacities etc.
After shooting, the spent rounds are cleaned and dumped into the box while I grab a fresh bunch out of another box.
I don't even bother with picking up range brass anymore,, I don't have any use for it.
All this small based sized brass is only loaded for my ARs. My 223 bolt actions get the Win. nickel plated brass.

My personal quest for accuracy, has taken me down the road to selecting cases by experience. Some time ago, I got rid of all commercial brass because of the inconsistant results.

I got LC brass, once fired, and went thru the work to prepare it for loading. It all comes down to accuracy. I found so much variation in weight with commercial brass.

As some have posted here, the commercial brass seems to come out with brass that is soft and then another batch that is correct. I simply do not want the variations so I use LC brass in the 223 and 20 TAC. For a casual shooter, I doubt it makes much difference, but for accuracy, it pays to be picky.

I just bought a bunch of this stuff, it's stacked up beside my loading bench:

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/19570

Which is, in my opinion, the very best brass made - period, bar none. It is the Methuselah of brass. Lasts until the sun dies, unless it's fired in a rifle with a chamber looser than a farmhouse screen door.

Or, if the nut behind the trigger absolutely wants a mil-spec headstamp to complement that mall ninja SWAT vest, then there's this stuff:

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/28474

It's brand new, it's completely cool, undinged, no grit, no grime, never been fired in Herman the drunken explosive demolition expert's AR with maximum headspace. Down side is the cost depletes one's savings stash for tattoos and beer. I bought 500 cases as a lark; you can never have too much brass.

This stuff is completely comparable to that stuff above:

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/12628

Which I shot really good groups with, excruciatingly good groups that looked like somebody stuck a 16 penny nail through the target.

Then if you want some more space-age sounding brass, this stuff will do just fine. Guess who they manufacturer brass for?

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/30863

Now here's the thing. In my opinion, all that case capacity and weight stuff isn't worth a hanky full of pig snot. It'll all boils down to barrel quality, the twist rate, and most importantly the shooter, then the environmental conditions. It'll all shoot about the same, depending on what powder you select, the primer (that's a big factor) and what bullet is being shot.

Here's two groups I have shown before, same rifle and barrel, same load, only different primers.



So buy up that new brass while it's available, because I feel a new order coming on.

Wow, what a diff.
Now you have me thinking paranoid thoughts about my 205Ms. I hate you.

While Antelope may well be correct about this, the point was that the machines that make the case are different, with different specs and tollerances; as well as the metalurgy.
See here for your example of metalurgy: http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/x-ray-spectrometry-of-cartridge-brass/

So if you want volume measure the volume, not the weight. But I agree, I have never seggregated cases.