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John
You might share my experience with the 7mm Mag problem I was having.
Charlie


The data and opinions contained in these posts are the results of experiences with my equipment. NO CONCLUSIONS SHOULD BE DRAWN FROM ANY DATA PRESENTED, DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, ATTEMPT TO REPLICATE THESE RESULTSj
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Thought you might, but I might as well.

Charlie had some brand-new 7mm Remington Magnum brass, and for a while thought he couldn't make a 7mm RM that shot worth a hoot. He finally called me about it, sometime in the past year, and we batted it around for a while. I finally suggested annealing the brass. After all, factories can screw up now and then, and annealing is just another step in the manufacturing process.

He'd never annealed any brass before, so I described the candle method. All of sudden his 7mm RM's starting shooting little-bitty groups!


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I'll play Dittohead on "annealing works."
But I like the propane and spin-holder-drill method way better. Speed....my bullets go slow, my annealing goes fast. Just like doing forearm curls, PUMP YOU UP.


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Originally Posted by dogcatcher223
I've used JB's method, but started just using the kitchen stove. Turn the gas on low, gently turn in the flame, and plop...into some water. I didn't like all the carbon on the cases from the candle smoke. The rag makes sense though if you don't want to wait for the cases to dry out.



This is exactly what I do.


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Just want to point out again (because I do it every time this subject comes up) that candle annealing isn't MY method. It was developed by Fred Barker, as an alternative that doesn't run any risk of over-annealing. Just want to make sure Fred gets credit, since there are too many people in the world taking credit for things they didn't do.


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I see it's been almost exactly 4 years since I reported the results of fireforming annealed cases so figured I'd update the results.

Those cases are now on their 20th firing with no signs of slowing down. Not a single case has been lost to neck splits.

Further, by minimal neck sizing and judicious shoulder bumping only as needed, there are no signs of incipient head separation in any of them. Nor have they been trimmed in all this time since being trimmed after their first firing. Hmm, maybe Mr. Ackley was on to something... wink


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Originally Posted by BullShooter
MD-




As advertised, the annealed end of the case is no longer brittle. But something seems amiss, with the case missing that certain je ne sais quoi that most good usable cases possess.

I made a photo so you all can see what I mean.
--Bob

[Linked Image]



You dummy, you're supposed to use high base stuff...


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Originally Posted by dennisinaz
Originally Posted by BullShooter
MD-


As advertised, the annealed end of the case is no longer brittle. But something seems amiss, with the case missing that certain je ne sais quoi that most good usable cases possess.

I made a photo so you all can see what I mean.
--Bob

[Linked Image]



You dummy, you're supposed to use high base stuff...

dennisinaz-

[sneer]You think you're so smart ...[/sneer]
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[Linked Image]
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Good shot, Bull.


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Re-run...


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--- Kid Rock 2022


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There are various ways to do this, most being variations on a theme. Most of my annealing is with BPCR cases, involving low pressure black powder loads. Goals is neck tension uniformity and extending case life.

I turn in an electric drill with a K&M case holder. For a heat sink I use a series of sponges with holes in the center. Besides keeping excess heat from the head area, it provides a "handle" to remove the hot case from the drill. Takes a bit of dexterity and practice, but it works well for me.

Paul

[Linked Image][Linked Image]


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Lots of ways to skin a cat. A friend uses the candle method quite successfully......low ES and long case life. I tried it and could not get the hang of it with out getting my fingers into the flame or touching some hot part.
So , I use the propane torch and case in a socket drill method. Watching the YouTube videos on case annealing machines it appears about 8 seconds and 5 seconds for the 223 type cases. I have a cookie sheet with dampened/wetted towel on it, put case in spinning socket for 8 seconds (my natural way of counting gets me to 13 in 8 seconds), I pick the case out of the socket with my bare fingers and roll on the damp cloth. I find it easier than the candle method.

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I read one of Mule Deer's posts here around 4 years ago. I noticed differences in case hardness while chamfering the inside of the necks. I could also feel the difference pulling off the expander plug.

The difference in hardness will effect the neck tension. The candle method has worked for me on 223's, 20 Tac and 243's. I also turn necks and then anneal. I simply find accuracy better when cases are annealed. In addition, it is rare when I get a split neck.


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