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5.7 engine won't start unless accelerator is fully depressed, dies if you let rpms get low. If you can keep it running for a couple of minutes (2 to 3k rpm) you can get it into gear at about 1k and it drives semi-normal, then eventually it will idle in park at 1k or so.
If you shut it off, it starts the same problem all over.
The shop can't take it until Tuesday.
Background 160,000 miles and did a 180 mile highway trip without incident the day before this happened. Started normal that morning, then drove to a strip mall. After sitting for 30 minutes the trouble began.
Any ideas besides injector or pump?
The truck has been nearly trouble free for 16 years.


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My '98 has a lot of trouble with distributor caps. When they go it starts hard and it has very little acceleration. Think I've put 3 on it in 3-4 years. When I first got it, it could be pretty temperamental when it rained really hard too. Why I changed the cap the first time.

They are notorious for that problem, especially if they sit a lot.

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Thanks, changed the cap a year ago, but this is different.


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Try having your vehicle OBDII codes read at an Autozone or NAPA. If you have an Android phone or pad, you can download Torque Pro app and buy an OBDII reader off Amazon and read your own codes. Total cost for both is less than $30.

Once you have your codes, do a search for them on internet for an exact solution to your problem.

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Fuel filter?
Bad fuel on the R/T?




I bet a can of seafoam fixes it.


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Fuel pressure regulator?

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Fuel pump filter screen is clogged. Drop the tank and clean it.


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You bought bad gas from some one.


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There could be such a thing as PassLock on your Suburban. You might have a "security" light lit on the dash. If so, the procedure is as follows:

Turn on ignition for 10 minutes.
Shut off and wait 20 seconds.
Turn on ignition for 10 minutes.
Shut off and wait 20 seconds.
Turn on ignition for 10 minutes.
Shut off and wait 20 seconds.

Start engine.


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Originally Posted by toltecgriz
5.7 engine won't start unless accelerator is fully depressed, dies if you let rpms get low. If you can keep it running for a couple of minutes (2 to 3k rpm) you can get it into gear at about 1k and it drives semi-normal, then eventually it will idle in park at 1k or so.
If you shut it off, it starts the same problem all over.
The shop can't take it until Tuesday.
Background 160,000 miles and did a 180 mile highway trip without incident the day before this happened. Started normal that morning, then drove to a strip mall. After sitting for 30 minutes the trouble began.
Any ideas besides injector or pump?
The truck has been nearly trouble free for 16 years.


These trucks have fuel pump problems. I'd run it with a fuel pressure gauge hooked up. Run it down the road and watch the gauge. It should be in the 55 to 65 psi range when at cruising speed. At idle, it will drop to around 45 psi. I know you said, "not pump". So my question is how do you know it is not the pump? I'd also check the fuel pressure regulator. Also make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. I'm sure if you are having drivability issues, you are probably getting a check engine light. What codes is it showing? When was the last time you checked the cap and rotor????


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
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Lots of good ideas.

BSA Didn't say not the pump. I listed it with injectors as a possibility. Pump and pressure regulator remain a possibility.

Walt Reading the code is cheating. smile But I'll do it if I can drive it safely.
At the closest parts store where they run the test for free, a guy asked to borrow the reader and they never saw him again. They don't have one any more.

Mike Fuel was fresh before the highway trip from a high volume Quik Trip. No problem until the next day''s second trip. Sea Foam was administered early on and if I can keep it running long enough to get enough through, it has potential. Fuel filter was changed about 40K ago.

Micky Dropping a tank with 30+ gallons of fuel in it is not for me. We'll see.

pal It cranks and runs okay at high RPM. If that changes I'll try the procedure.

I'll mess with it again tomorrow and see what happens. I appreciate all the input.





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Someone'll be dropping the tank and installing a new fuel pump.


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Pretty sure it has PassLock.


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Originally Posted by horse1
Someone'll be dropping the tank and installing a new fuel pump.


It wouldn't be the first one for that year of suburban. It damn sure won't be the last either... One of my friends has a '99 and has changed the fuel pump 5 times since new. Thank god I have never touched mine!!!!!!!! I have had rough running, backfiring, stumbling/missing, lean air fuel problems. So I know what the OP is going thru.... These things are also notorious for going thru distributor caps if you don't buy the right one. Even if yours is newer (a year old), don't rule that out as a possibility. Only buy AC Delco (factory OEM) OR an Accell and they will last a long time. I just replaced my original equipment cap last year. However, I learned the hard way and went with a store brand distributor cap and it gradually ran worse and worse. It took me a while to figure out it was the fairly new cap that was the problem. If you pull yours, blow the inside of the distributor out with a light compressed air because small fragments of aluminum or brass may be causing problems inside the distributor, hence arcing out and causing misfires... Like I said before, test the fuel pump pressure while it is under load. If it checks out, you'll know your pump is good. If you can get the codes, let us know what they are and we can possibly be of more assistance... No I am not a mechanic, but I know my way around most vehicles wink ... Good luck with it..


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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99 Suburban part deux.

I only had a minute today so I just tried to start it normally. Fired right up and idled right down. I think it's messing with me. Next step...codes.

It couldn't just be the Sea Foam that fixed it, could it? It was still seriously messed up just yesterday. Regardless, I don't trust it yet.


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Originally Posted by toltecgriz
99 Suburban part deux.

I only had a minute today so I just tried to start it normally. Fired right up and idled right down. I think it's messing with me. Next step...codes.

It couldn't just be the Sea Foam that fixed it, could it?
It was still seriously messed up just yesterday. Regardless, I don't trust it yet.


Give your head a shake! That stuff is PFM!



And stay away from ethanol. wink


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I'd still look at the fuel filter. 40K miles could stand a replacement.


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Mass air flow sensor? Mine threw a code so I bought a replacement sensor and when I opened it up, there was a bird feather on the screen. Now tell me how a bird feather ends up between the clean side of the air filter and the MAFS sensor? Let me tell you, low paid dealer lube techs that just go through the motions of upselling you filters you don't need and not paying enough attention to what they're doing.

How about the throttle position sensor? I've had a couple go bad and also had some I've fixed by taking the connectors and unplugging and plugging them in several times to make sure the connection isn't compromised.

Just a couple of thoughts.

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Clean the throttle body.
(throttle plate / butterfly )


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Went to take it in today, went crazy on the way. Limped back to change trucks as I had other things to do. Thinking distributor cap is part of a bigger problem.


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Originally Posted by toltecgriz
Went to take it in today, went crazy on the way. Limped back to change trucks as I had other things to do. Thinking distributor cap is part of a bigger problem.



That's one of the first things I'd check/change. Some of these other guys are giving you some free advice, but may not even own a '99 suburban... wink


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Find a good mechanic....and save yourself a bunch of guessing and buying and replacing parts that don't need it...all the things listed could be the cause of the problem..I have a 93 with 5.7 and a 99 with 7.4 both have done similar with a different thing that were wrong...
The 160k mileage range I had to replace the whole distributer one time and fuel injectors and a fuel pump...all acted similar..
If it ain't broke don't fix it..

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The day in the life of a GM owner. LOL

Have fun boys!


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Just for an update, started fine today and idled okay for ten minutes or so. Again had no time to do more.

tz: The reason I don't have a "good mechanic" as rrfc suggested, is I've had so few problems with Chevy. That said, I have nothing against Ford.


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The 93 Chevy I have just fooled 300 k. Original motor...and it round like a top... The reason I suggest a good.....mechanic...I had a lot of little stuff go haywire at150-180 k it got real frustrating to just throw parts at it..
My son has an 87 that would do similar to yours...a 99 model with 160 k probably sits a lot his had rust build up in the tank,from ethanol...and would plug the screen on the fuel pump....put in a new tank from mc truck and problem solved...
By the way you couldn't give me another ford....lol

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On my 95, I wrecked a coil by letting the cap and rotor go too long. It would start OK when it was cold, but not warm.


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Originally Posted by toltecgriz
Just for an update, started fine today and idled okay for ten minutes or so. Again had no time to do more.

tz: The reason I don't have a "good mechanic" as rrfc suggested, is I've had so few problems with Chevy. That said, I have nothing against Ford.


My wife's 99 suburban has been rock solid for us. Well except for the alternators (it's gone thru about 5 in the last 10 years), the distributor cap conundrum and the reaction sun shell in the transmission. This is a very common problem with this year of suburban/GM products that use the 4L60E, but simple enough to replace. My 2004 GMC, on the other hand, has been kind of troublesome. New tranny at 110,000 miles, transfer case at 139,000, rear end at 125,000, front differential rebuilt at 115,000. The LS1 5.3 is damn good and doesn't use or leak a drop of oil. If I didn't know how to work on cars, all these fixes would have bankrupted me in the last couple years..


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Since there is so much experience with distributor caps, does spending more money for one give you a better chance of avoiding problems down the road, so to speak? Looks like you can spend anywhere from $35 to $60 for one. It it makes a difference, paying a little more isn't that big a deal.


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Originally Posted by toltecgriz
Since there is so much experience with distributor caps, does spending more money for one give you a better chance of avoiding problems down the road, so to speak? Looks like you can spend anywhere from $35 to $60 for one. It it makes a difference, paying a little more isn't that big a deal.


Like I said before, ONLY buy a factory OEM replacement (AC Delco). Many guys have also had excellent success with the Accel brand aftermarket cap. This is the one I ended up buying after the $55.00 one from the local automotive parts house didn't cut the mustard...


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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BSA has som good advice ...my old 93 has always got ac delco parts. They cost more but when it's fixed its fixed..
It's on its second starter...most Chevys eat parts store starters at a rate of 1 or 2 a year...ac delco starters cost double but usually last 10 years..

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I spent the money on Delco. The off brand that I tried corroded faster.


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Originally Posted by toltecgriz
Just for an update, started fine today and idled okay for ten minutes or so. Again had no time to do more.

tz: The reason I don't have a "good mechanic" as rrfc suggested, is I've had so few problems with Chevy. That said, I have nothing against Ford.


I had so many issues with my 04 that I don't think I could stomach another. I hate to say it but this Ram I have has gone the longest so far without repair of any vehicle I've had other than my 06 Tundra.

I have a giant pile of crow to eat on that deal. smile


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Originally Posted by tzone
Originally Posted by toltecgriz
Just for an update, started fine today and idled okay for ten minutes or so. Again had no time to do more.

tz: The reason I don't have a "good mechanic" as rrfc suggested, is I've had so few problems with Chevy. That said, I have nothing against Ford.


I had so many issues with my 04 that I don't think I could stomach another. I hate to say it but this Ram I have has gone the longest so far without repair of any vehicle I've had other than my 06 Tundra.

I have a giant pile of crow to eat on that deal. smile


The ford gods are going to be so pizzed at you...


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Originally Posted by tzone
...I hate to say it but this Ram I have has gone the longest so far without repair of any vehicle I've had other than my 06 Tundra.

I have a giant pile of crow to eat on that deal. smile


You mean the Tundra gave good service?


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Originally Posted by Ben300WSM
My '98 has a lot of trouble with distributor caps. When they go it starts hard and it has very little acceleration. Think I've put 3 on it in 3-4 years. When I first got it, it could be pretty temperamental when it rained really hard too. Why I changed the cap the first time.

They are notorious for that problem, especially if they sit a lot.


Here's a potential solution to your problem.

---------------------------

"GM Vortec V-6 & V-8 engine Application Alert
1997 and newer GM vehicles equipped with “Vortec” type engines may experience misfires
and hesitation due to moisture accumulation inside the distributor cap and a general lack of
airflow inside distributor. GM TSB #03-06-04-041A & #05500 involves 2001-2003 vehicles
however, the condition may occur in earlier and later vehicles. Whenever servicing a Vortec
distributor the following should be performed:
1) Inspect and clear 2 distributor vents on early models. On later models with vent screens, the 2
screens should be removed.
2) Check for coolant leaks near distributor from heater hoses or other sources of potential leakage.
3) Inspect PVC system and change engine oil on schedule. Moisture in pressurized crankcase vapors
can be forced up distributor shaft and contaminate the cap and rotor causing internal arcing and
corrosion.
4) If A/C equipped, insulate accumulator line near distributor base. A 9 inch long piece of foam having
an internal diameter of 1.25 inches and .25 inch wall thickness is recommended."

----------------------------

If the vents in dist are clogged it can cause corrosion and arcing (erosion) due to moisture.

There's a consensus among those "in the know" that AC Delco ignition parts are the only way to go. Aftermarket dist caps and rotors are notorious for eroding faster than OEM. I bought a Napa Gold cap and rotor for my 98 chevy and it looked like crap after 30k. The original cap and rotor looked better at 100k than the Napa parts.

It's also possible that there could be other weak ignition components that might cause problems with excessive erosion.

I'll add this too. The best place on the internet for info on chevy trucks is fullsizechevy.com. It's great forum with many knowledgeable folks that are happy to help.

It's just like the fire. smile



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Good advice fish head..


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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I forgot to mention the vortex plastic intake manafold....has yours been changed? More than likely it has...but there was a problem with all of them... By 99 they may have been coming out of the factory fixed...
The 97-98 s had the problem for sure but not sure about the 99s

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FWIW,

The Vortec series of engines (96 to 99 - 4.3, 5.0, 5.7) have a plastic upper intake manifold but the lower portion is aluminium. The problem is with the intake manifold gasket (between the heads and IM), not the manifold(s) themselves. The OEM gasket was a defective design and they all have or will eventually fail.

Fel-Pro came out with a new IM gasket that cures the problem once and for all.

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Originally Posted by fish head
FWIW,

The Vortec series of engines (96 to 99 - 4.3, 5.0, 5.7) have a plastic upper intake manifold but the lower portion is aluminium. The problem is with the intake manifold gasket (between the heads and IM), not the manifold(s) themselves. The OEM gasket was a defective design and they all have or will eventually fail.

Fel-Pro came out with a new IM gasket that cures the problem once and for all.


This is good advice. Expansion and contraction of a plastic intake can be a reason for vacuum leaks. Also could be the reason it starts ok cold then gives problems when it warms up. When running, try to spray some carb cleaner along the intake gaskets and see if the idle changes any. If it does, you have a bad gasket as mentioned above.

Also a firm believer in going back with AC Delco on the cap and rotor.


Clyde.


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The mechanic, who is a pretty good mechanic, says it was the coolant temperature sensor. It has been replaced. Hard for me to believe, but we'll see.

He also noted a leaking intake manifold.

And front axle seals seeping.

Quoted a repair price that's nearly half of book value.

If those are fixed it's a pretty solid truck again, even if it is 16 years old.

As I said, we'll see.


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Originally Posted by toltecgriz
...Quoted a repair price that's nearly half of book value...


Trade it in.


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About 3 weeks ago I bought a 1999 2500 Suburban 4x4 with 7.4 vortec it runs and drives great 136000 miles. When I bought it I ran it over to me local repair shop and he made me a list of all the bad parts/news it needs.
water pump/ I replaced it
fan clutch / I replaced it
Serp belt / I replaced it
shocks/ same
muffler- tail pipe/ same
I haven"t replaced yet but need to
passenger axle boot/ shaft
right upper and lower tie rod ends
idler arm
pitman arm
And finally the front differential is weeping
All small things but the diff seals.
This is my first Suburban but not my first chevy product.
I have a 77 4x4 3/4 ton with a 388 stroker
just sold my 4x4 88 2500 xcab pickup last month $800 had bad tranny
I also have a 95 silverado 4x4 1 ton dually 4 door 156000 miles and 17000 on 7.4 liter chevy crate motor.
99 GMC Safari van 3rd tranny. They are designed to go out at 100000 miles. The original went a 102000 the gm factory replacement went at 101000 miles. Something smells fishy about those chevy trannys.
For $300.00 more than the last OME replacement tranny I bought the Suburban plus the new parts it needs.
Oh and a 2013 Ford Explorer great so far?
Erich


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Good advice on the distributor.
If you like/love the truck keep it and fix/ find the problem. A newer rig might have more problems than what you have now.
I'll wait for my two pennies in the mail.
Erich


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FYI regarding fuel pumps in the GMs.

Wife's 96 with the 5.7 at 157K has been cast iron tough other than replacing three pumps. Has been five years since the last one when we were on a trip with it.
Mechanic asked a lot of questions and ended up talking to the wife. It appears that up to that time she always played fuel price futures and always had the tank down under 1/4 in the hot summer weather. Duh? Fuel cools the pump. She won't let it get below 1/2 now. Problem solved.


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Originally Posted by toltecgriz
The mechanic, who is a pretty good mechanic, says it was the coolant temperature sensor. It has been replaced. Hard for me to believe, but we'll see.

He also noted a leaking intake manifold.

And front axle seals seeping.

Quoted a repair price that's nearly half of book value.

If those are fixed it's a pretty solid truck again, even if it is 16 years old.

As I said, we'll see.

For the cost of a few new-vehicle payments.


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Well, I fixed everything listed plus the oil cooler lines for about $1500. Just got back from an 850 mile spring break trip with no problems. First time the check engine light hasn't been on in 15 years, give or take. smile
New set of Michelins before summer and we are good to go.


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I've got a set of Michelins on my Tahoe. Currently they are at 100,000 miles with another 20K left on them.


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You'll never throw a tire off. Working at a tire store in high school Michelins were near impossible to dismount sometimes. The beads are super tight on them. This was about the time they were factory on all chevy trucks and they were getting wore out. Every Chevy that pulled in it was like "crap".......

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Originally Posted by Reloder28
I've got a set of Michelins on my Tahoe. Currently they are at 100,000 miles with another 20K left on them.


That's about $0.0067 per mile. I've never gotten 120K but I always seem to get over 80K.


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Originally Posted by toltecgriz
Originally Posted by Reloder28
I've got a set of Michelins on my Tahoe. Currently they are at 100,000 miles with another 20K left on them.


That's about $0.0067 per mile. I've never gotten 120K but I always seem to get over 80K.


My daily commute is 108 miles round trip, all freeway. That helps.


Throttle fixes everything. If it doesn't fix the problem, it’ll end the suspense.
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