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It's been a year or more, probably two years but I found a beat up 10/22 ss carbine at a pawnshop for 175, it won't shoot any ammo worth a crap. Went out yesterday and shot it alongside my Cooper 57 at 100, Eley Club, different versions of CCI, Winchester, Federal including 711B, SK Standard+ and Stingers.

Five shot groups 3"-6" vs 1"-2" with the Cooper.

It's been hammered, barrel is beat up and scratched, same with the stock, I figure I paid 175 for an action worth maybe 50 bucks.

Salvage or flip?

If I salvage, I have no interest in a barrel weighing more than a factory sporter, so a .900" barrel would have to be carbon fiber or aluminum wrapped, it would be threaded.

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There are bunches of factory sporter barrels sitting in closets from where the owner built a target gun. I would start looking for a take-off. Some years ago I bought a beater 10/22 for $100 and replaced the barrel with an Alumalite bull barrel and a Hogue stock. After doing a trigger job, the thing is very accurate and came in under budget.

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I guess if you're expecting a stock 10/22, let alone a "beat up 10/22", to shoot alongside your Cooper, you might as well flip it & move on.
A lightweight barrel by Kidd, Volquartsen, Tactical Solutions and possibly others, will help as will a good trigger and stock. Or you could get a complete Volquartsen, Kid or Tactical Solutions rifle already tricked out, but you'll be spending multiples of what you have into yours.

BTW, your action is worth more than $50, with alot of people doing custom builds these days it's hard to find a complete action for much less than you paid for your rifle.


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What about cleaning the bore and touching up the crown with a chamfer tool? Seems like you have nothing to lose.


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If an action is worth 100-125 I don't feel so bad.

I didn't expect the 10/22 to match the Cooper, but I would think it would group 3" or better in near perfect conditions like I had yesterday with a preferred ammo.

I have considered looking for good used parts, a threaded factory barrel is one thought considering I may buy a rimfire suppressor next month.

I started looking for a 10/22 probably 4 years ago, I had my eye on the deluxe sporter but this was prior to the desire to buy a suppressor and when 139.00 carbines just disappeared. I thought the premimum for the nice walnut stock was too much so I grabbed this rifle thinking I would cerakote it and pick up a used DSP stock.

I ditched the barrel band and floated the barrel but as you all know, that didn't work. This trip I added a temporary pressure point but accuracy did not improve much, previously groups were closer to 8" at 100.

The barrel is clean, I can re-crown it and may bed the barrel as well before making a decision.





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I wouldn't feel bad about what you paid, I spent more than that a few months ago for a similar one but it has the threaded barrel. I had a deluxe walnut stock on hand that I put it in. I can't tell you how accurate it is at 100 because I mostly use it as a suppressed tin can banger and it does fine. There is a good selection of take off and aftermarket barrels on ebay including the threaded "tactical" barrels like mine. If I were going to buy another barrel I think I'd upgrade a bit over factory with a Kidd or TacSol.


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Ditto on the Kidd, Volquartsen, Tactical Solutions barrel idea.


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You can find factory contour ER Shaw barrels on Gunbroker for under $100. That's what I would do if it was mine.


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There are several factors that could be in play here and you could try to eliminate them. You have already done the first thing I would have suggested in regards to the barrel band and free float. If you have access to anyone who has a 10/22 factory barrel that is know to be a decent shooter you could try to borrow it and see what the difference is in your groups to determine if your factory barrel is the issue. Another issue could be the bolt its self in respect to the bolt face and head space. Another option would be to place the entire unit into another stock and see what the results are. No sense wasting money on the barreled action if there is issue in the stock. What about barrel fit to action? Is it sloppy or loose?


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Originally Posted by JimHnSTL
There are several factors that could be in play here and you could try to eliminate them. You have already done the first thing I would have suggested in regards to the barrel band and free float. If you have access to anyone who has a 10/22 factory barrel that is know to be a decent shooter you could try to borrow it and see what the difference is in your groups to determine if your factory barrel is the issue. Another issue could be the bolt its self in respect to the bolt face and head space. Another option would be to place the entire unit into another stock and see what the results are. No sense wasting money on the barreled action if there is issue in the stock. What about barrel fit to action? Is it sloppy or loose?


That's a good point about barrel fit, my 10/22 saw an improvement in accuracy when I replaced the v-block with a new one from Rimfire Technologies.


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I bought a 10/22 International and it shot poorly. After taking it out of the stock for a home brew trigger job, I discovered that the bolts holding the V Block were both loose from the factory. When I tightened them up it began to shoot very small groups.

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Thanks for the input, it's currently disassembled and laying on the bench. I will start with a clean and lube followed by a trigger job after some more research.

I noticed the barrel to receiver fit is not tight, I can easily remove the barrel. I could not detect an issue with the v-block, it appears to suck the barrel into the receiver correctly.

I believe I will install a stud in the rear of the action and bed it into the stock, the process looks straightforward and this is a good stock to practice the modification. Shoot it with the barrel floating.VT

If accuracy is not impoved, fill some cells and bed the barrel, let me know if ya'll agree.

The Kidd ultralight threaded barrel is very tempting if the issues are due to a bad factory barrel.

Last edited by RDW; 01/25/16.

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Another thing to try could be a different bolt assembly.
or just send your current one out to Randy @ CPC and have him do his thing to yours. i would see if you could borrow a different bolt to see if that makes a difference, then if it does it would pay to send yours out to be trued up.


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How does the bolt affect accuracy?


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The bolt face might not be truly squared to the chamber face and the head space could be off a bit. That combined with a loose barrel fit combined with a poorly bedded action all can add up. My whole point though was to really determine what's all in play on your rifle is to replace one thing at a time and if no change put original back and try another piece to swap out.


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Is the parallax on the scope set up for rimfire?

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BTW since the cooper was grouping 1" to 2" I am assuming this was at 100 yards then?


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The bolt to barrel relationship made sense after reading the information on CPC this morning..

Both scopes are set to 75 yards, parallax was undetectable to me and I was shooting at 100 yards.

I did notice some crud on the face of the barrel and that may contribute to the problem. The 22 centerfire Manson pilot fit so I recrowned the barrel this morning.


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I'm guessing, you will get $175 worth of entertainment out of that rifle this winter, just working on it. When you get it to shoot, that will be a bonus.

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It won't take long, I drilled and tapped the tail end of the receiver 5/16-24, cut and polished a carburetor stud to project about 3/8", bored about a 1/2" hole in the stock and bedded the stud with JB Steel.

Pulled the action out this morning and it worked perfectly. Nice and snug with no rocking front to rear, barrel is floated with plenty of room.

I did not bed the action yet, I wanted to make sure there were no issues removing the action with the stud in place so there is slight movement from side to side in the stock that I will correct later.

I checked the headspace, it measured .0457" with a caliper and that may not be as accurate as using the proper depth gauge, but close to the .0452" dimension I found online.

I will take it down again tonight and finish the clean and lube and work on the trigger.


Edit: I found a few homemade buffer pins including a nylon pin cut from a long bolt and what appeared to be a metal rod inserted into a piece of vacuum hose. I am sure I can find vacuum hose and steel or brass welding rod in the garage, I can find a nylon bolt easily.

What affect is the buffer tube material to accuracy if any?




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gonna be a deep money pit to get it to shoot 10 shots into 1/2" @ 50yds

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10 shot 1/2" @ 50, did I say that?


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Sell it and call it a day,your 175 will turn into a money pit.

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Originally Posted by RDW
10 shot 1/2" @ 50, did I say that?


If yours is shooting that good, it's not a POS... I was lucky to get mine to shoot .850" pretty consistently at 50 yards. It was a POS as well:

[Linked Image]


It shot like this with federal bulk ammo and aftermarket hi-viz sights:

[Linked Image]

I later foolishly sold it to a buddy and he's shot some 3/8 inch (10 shot) groups with eley tenex ammo... He's added some kidd parts and the bolt buffer makes a big difference in how the rifle shoots and feels during recoil.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
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I will be fine with 1" at 50 with this rifle, five shots with mid-range ammo like I am using now, Eley Club, SK Standard+, CCI mini-mags.

Worked the trigger last night, it's much better with almost no creep but heavier than I prefer. I will shoot tomorrow and report back.


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[Linked Image]

I bought this 1986 10/22 for $175 ask $160 paid in 2007.
Then I bought a Shilen select match 10/22 barrel used off ebay for $200. It had a Bentz chamber I opened up slightly with a SAAMI reamer so it will not jam with hunting ammo.
I got and STS trigger off Ebay for $140.
I milled out the barrel channel in the stock for the fat heavy barrel.

I took it to the range Sept 1, 2007 with the original trigger and shot it with 3 cent Federal Champion ammo:
1.1" 10 shot group 50y
0.61" 5 shot group 50y
0.77" 8 shot group 50y

I can't say it shoots better than me. I think we share the errors. Have not shot it since.


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I took the clunker to the range Sunday, the trigger is much better, five shot groups at 50 with a mild tailwind seemed to average about 1.25", with Eley Club maybe a tad less.

Heck, I fired an eight shot group with my 39M that was no more than 2" with open sights.


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I found accuracy in 10/22 and 77/22 rifles by epoxy fitting the barrel. For a release agent I use heat softened paraffin wax on a towel to apply to the inside of the action and the outside of the barrel. Once cooled I polish it back off. With the action mounted vertically in a vise butter up the barrel tennon and inside of the action with MarineTex. Then install so that it sits square on the shoulder of the barrel and let it cure overnight. Clean up the outside while it is still soft with Q-Tips. The inside will chip out cleanly once cured so leave it thick in there. Once cured and cleaned up nice install the V block lightly torqued to 20 inch pounds or so. Now the barrel and action will perform just as if it was threaded together as one. If you ever want to remove the barrel a little heat from a heat gun or propane torch with let it come right apart. At 300 degrees in my Cerakote oven it will come right apart.

This also cures the natural barrel droop the rifles experience when the barrel and action have a loose fit.

Another nice mod is to drill the rear of the action for a cleaning rod so it can be cleaned from the breech.

Sitting in a Hogue rubber stock my Green Mountain .920" barrel shoots 1.5" 10 shot groups at 100 yards with Stingers. Plenty good for ground squirrels. I switch to 17HMR after that.


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I got a mid 1980s beat up 10/22 with stripped out scope base screw holes from a pawn shop in 1995 for $35.
I put a Simmons $37 22 mag 4x scope on it.
I put a $125 stainless fluted Green Mountain barrel on it.

It kill a thousand rodents, but I lost it in 2007.

I replaced it with the 10/22 two posts up ^^^^

Both barrels came Bentz chambered. I did not ream all the way out to 22LR SAAMI, but just enough to feed hunting ammo.


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Originally Posted by HiredGun
I found accuracy in 10/22 and 77/22 rifles by epoxy fitting the barrel. For a release agent I use heat softened paraffin wax on a towel to apply to the inside of the action and the outside of the barrel. Once cooled I polish it back off. With the action mounted vertically in a vise butter up the barrel tennon and inside of the action with MarineTex. Then install so that it sits square on the shoulder of the barrel and let it cure overnight. Clean up the outside while it is still soft with Q-Tips. The inside will chip out cleanly once cured so leave it thick in there. Once cured and cleaned up nice install the V block lightly torqued to 20 inch pounds or so. Now the barrel and action will perform just as if it was threaded together as one. If you ever want to remove the barrel a little heat from a heat gun or propane torch with let it come right apart. At 300 degrees in my Cerakote oven it will come right apart.

This also cures the natural barrel droop the rifles experience when the barrel and action have a loose fit.

Another nice mod is to drill the rear of the action for a cleaning rod so it can be cleaned from the breech.

Sitting in a Hogue rubber stock my Green Mountain .920" barrel shoots 1.5" 10 shot groups at 100 yards with Stingers. Plenty good for ground squirrels. I switch to 17HMR after that.


I had a discussion on this very process and though a while back on rimfire central and I can't tell you how many folks thought I was an idiot for even thinking about trying it. Basically you've just made the barrel to the receiver fit an exact match. I couldn't get some folks to understand that concept. Glad to see I'm not alone in my thoughts.


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Originally Posted by JimHnSTL
Originally Posted by HiredGun
I found accuracy in 10/22 and 77/22 rifles by epoxy fitting the barrel. For a release agent I use heat softened paraffin wax on a towel to apply to the inside of the action and the outside of the barrel. Once cooled I polish it back off. With the action mounted vertically in a vise butter up the barrel tennon and inside of the action with MarineTex. Then install so that it sits square on the shoulder of the barrel and let it cure overnight. Clean up the outside while it is still soft with Q-Tips. The inside will chip out cleanly once cured so leave it thick in there. Once cured and cleaned up nice install the V block lightly torqued to 20 inch pounds or so. Now the barrel and action will perform just as if it was threaded together as one. If you ever want to remove the barrel a little heat from a heat gun or propane torch with let it come right apart. At 300 degrees in my Cerakote oven it will come right apart.

This also cures the natural barrel droop the rifles experience when the barrel and action have a loose fit.

Another nice mod is to drill the rear of the action for a cleaning rod so it can be cleaned from the breech.

Sitting in a Hogue rubber stock my Green Mountain .920" barrel shoots 1.5" 10 shot groups at 100 yards with Stingers. Plenty good for ground squirrels. I switch to 17HMR after that.


I had a discussion on this very process and though a while back on rimfire central and I can't tell you how many folks thought I was an idiot for even thinking about trying it. Basically you've just made the barrel to the receiver fit an exact match. I couldn't get some folks to understand that concept. Glad to see I'm not alone in my thoughts.

I've heard some of those guys like to bed the barrel and float the receiver. What is your take on this??? I'm going to be doing something with mine, as soon as I figure out what mechanical aspect is going to work the best.... Right now, I'm leaning toward pillar bedding at the take down screw, and bed the barrel to the "balance point". Anyone bed the rear of the receiver? I know there has to be some tricks to properly bedding a 10-22. Those rimfire central guys sometimes can't agree which is the "best" way either...


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Two fingergrooves (60's) and a reg sporter from mid 70's...........did plenty good enough to smoke squirrels at 50 with boring regularity.

Newest 1022 I ever had was maybe made in early 90's.

Worst one was a Deluxe Sporter. It shot OK, but groups would shift. Proly needed action bedded. I missed a whopper chuck and was so PO'd I traded it off (even or made a little in the swap).

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Current 10/22 is a fingergroove.
I did the Kidd buffer to make it more pleasant and added a Volq hammer.
I'm sure things could be improved but it was OK in stock form. Just making it "good enough".

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I love the idea of a barrel block mounted barrel and floating the receiver. Depending on how it shoots, one concern is something might need to be done to keep the receiver mounted scope pointing the same direction as the barrel consistently. A good solution for that is the cantilever barrel mounted scope mount. Then the action contributes about nothing important to the accuracy. Either threading or gluing the barrel into the receiver looks a lot nicer. Another cool way to solve this issue is to buy a barrel blank and fit it myself. Then I can cut the tennon for a heat shrink fit.


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Good stuff guys. I've decided to glass bed the rear of the receiver because after looking at it, it has a lot of play in the stock (about 1/16"+). I'll also glass the pillar and action screw area. Leave the barrel mount area alone and then glass the first 5 inches (due to balance point) or so of the barrel channel. I'll then free float the rest of the barrel after the bedding cures. Right now it has a speed bump at the tip of the fore end. I'll leave that in for the bedding process and remove afterwards when I freefloat the rest of the barrel that is not going to be glassed. The way I see it, that is the best way to bed this thing (mechanically speaking). I also like the idea of bedding it in the vertical position so the receiver drops back against the stock before the action screw is tightened: Kind of bass ackwards from how hiredgun does his. The Volquartsen hammer was fine tuned (shimmed properly) and pull wt. is down to a damn consistent 2 pounds. This POS should be shooting pretty good after this work is done to it......


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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I'm well versed on the M77/22's but somewhat new to the 10/22's. That being said I know several people who are very versed in them that have had good luck bedding them both ways. As long as it is done right is what is important. Now if I was going to build one (10/22) as a dedicated target rifle for competition I think I would look hard at bedding the barrel and floating the action, especially if a heavy target barrel was to be used.


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I threw a Clark Sporter barrel on mine and it shoots most everything very well and Aguila Pistol Match exceedingly so. Used it to win the rimfire shoot at the Arizona ronde. Nothing bedded, barrel floated. I still need to tweak the trigger.

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Originally Posted by EdM
I threw a Clark Sporter barrel on mine and it shoots most everything very well and Aguila Pistol Match exceedingly so. Used it to win the rimfire shoot at the Arizona ronde. Nothing bedded, barrel floated. I still need to tweak the trigger.

[Linked Image]


That sure is a sweet rifle.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Thanks. Too bad Fajen is not in business.


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