Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles Full lenght Resizing / stuck cases..

What lube seems to work best when you are full length resizing cases.

I have tried sprays, pads and brushes but I seems to take why to much force to size even .243 cases, even having cases stuck in the die.

Any sugestions?

Imperial Sizing Die Wax

Ive used the RCBS spray with good results, but I have had a couple of stuck cases when I didn't get enough on the case. I've got some lanolin oil ordered to make some homemade lube. Supposedly a mixture of the lanolin and alcohol works very well. There are several youtube videos that show it in use and how to make it.

I'll add that since I discovered Lee Collet dies, I haven't been doing near as much FL sizing. Not having to use any lube with the Lee die is great.

I don't full length resize all that much but we use several 243 rifles for deer hunting and the cases get mixed up and need full length sized, hence the issues.

jimy,

I've had cases stick in the die with all of them including Imperial. When I have cases I've fired many times I lube them with Hornady spray and push the case in half way. Then I pull it out and without adding more, I smear the lube that is on the case around again. No more stuck cases.

If the cases are getting stuck you are just not using enough case lube.
I use spray lube; a couple of good squirts in a quart baggie, throw in about 50 cases and shake them up. Have not had any stuck cases since using that method. It is also much quicker and cleaner.
Also, clean your dies frequently.

Have used RCBS lube, one shot, Midway, and others. Have never stuck a case, but have had shoulder dent problems. Started using Imperial wax and graphite, with the little reservoir and brushes. No dents, no wet lube in the cases, easy sizing, and supposedly consistent bullet pull.

What are you cleaning your dies with?

Alcohol, carb cleaner or some thing else?

I spray them out with brake cleaner.

Spray can brake parts cleaner works well.

THIS!

I use Imperial if I only have a few cases.
It takes too long to wipe each individual case and you still have to clean the case afterward.

+1 on the imperial sizing wax if your denting cases your using to much of any lube. Clean your die and start over.

I have had good luck with the Imperial and also the RCBS pad. I did have a few stick with the spray but think looking back that maybe I did not shake it good enough. miles

I've had good results with a light coat of Lyman lube. I remove it afterwards with a rag/lacquer thinner.

If they are still available, the Lyman or RCBS paste type lubes are about the smoothest but require clean up with mineral spirits. I don't see how that is a big deal...what's the rush?

Lee case lube in the tube is very inexpensive and works just as well and is water soluble. It works better than I expected at first due to the low cost when they gave me a free tube.

Any of the case lubes on the market work well if you apply it correctly.

I would take the time to do this step properly considering the difficulties one encounters if a case gets stuck in the die. You might consider to start by applying it with your fingers to insure you are getting good coverage and doing it properly.

It helps to lube the inside of the neck with something convenient, but don't put any lube on the actual shoulder.

I have never had a stuck case in 50+ years of reloading/case forming.

I use Imperial sizing wax. I don't use any kind of pad, just grab the case, dip the neck in the graphite bead stuff to lube the inside of the neck, then a bit of imperial on my index finger and spin the case between the fingers. I've never stuck a case doing this and it takes a lot longer to type than it does to do, it goes very quick.

I've seen more guys stick cases with that spray lube junk than anything else. I can't think of one good reason to not use imperial sizing wax. If it bugs you to get it on your hands then you need to stay in front of the TV.

The sticky RCBS stuff on the pad works great. But, like any, if too thick in the shoulder/neck, it will leave dents.

Still remember the old style RCBS stuff that had a piney smell to it. If I remember correctly, it was even thicker than the current version.

I've used RCBS and Lee lube along with Imperial Sizing Wax (it's more like a light grease) and Hornady Spray Lube. I've only stuck a case with the Hornady Spray. I like the Imperial the best.

Imperial is good stuff. I also just use it on small quantities of brass or if case forming. Once I learned how to use Hornady's OneShot, it became my "go to" for larger quantities. You DO have to shake it well, and you DO have to let it dry. I have used it on every thing from 223 to 300 WSM with no dents, stuck cases, or any other problems; but you've got to follow the directions on the can. When sizing a lot of brass, I spray several trays at night and let them sit until the next day. Works for me but to each his own.

That's what I did wrong with the Hornady. I sat down to reload and was too impatient to spray and walk away.

I'll just stick with the Imperial as it has never let me down.

YUP!

I still use the rcbs lube pads never had a problem

I stuck a couple of cases from my M1A using spray lubes, plus it was just plain hard to size them. Bought a $4.00 tub of Hornady Unique lube and my problems stopped immediately. It may be the same as Imperial, even if it isn't it's great stuff.

Good info already given...

several things I didn't see mentioned... Difficulty sizing is indication also your brass is expanding too much...either a slightly oversized chamber or you are redlining your velocity, with way increased pressure when firing...

my sizing regimen is to neck sizing and deprime with a Lee Collet die... then if it chambers too snugly or with difficulty, then I bump the shoulder back with a body Die..
Got one in 7/08 that works well both for the 243 and the 260.. a long with a 7/08 if I shot one...

spindle out of the 260 die also works well for a 243 body die...

I hear a lot of the ways guys lube stuff, which all seems to difficult for my tastes...I was self taught to reload so I found what worked for me...

I use this for lubrication... friend is a dealer...can is like $8 and lasts me for about 4 years or more.. and I do a lot of reloading...



and how I lubed them is in a blue camping frying pan I picked up at Bi Mart for $7, like 18 years ago or so...



spray lube the pan as needed, and when not in use, hangs on a hook off the side of my reload bench...

toss 10 to 15 pieces of brass in there at a time... shake it around a little like we use to do to a pan of jiffy pop, popcorn..

Works real well, is not a big mess... definitely gets the brass lubed well.... stuck cases are a thing of the past...

a little prudence on the powder scale contributes to that also..

+1... Er... 3.

I have used Imperial for years and the only stuck case I have ever had was when I tried to sneak one by without and lube.

Imperial is magic in a little silver can

^^^^^
This for the past 35 years or so. Never had a problem, never a stuck case. I have had to replace the pad a couple of times.

I just tried my first round of brass with my homemade lube. I like it! 1oz lanolin oil to 1 12oz bottle of Iso-Heet. I found a good deal online on an 8oz bottle of lanoline oil. Bought 8 bottles of Iso-Heet at Wal-Mart and mixed it all up in an empty gallon jug. I'm about $30 in for 104oz of lube. At $10 per 4oz bottle of RCBS lube that I've been using, that works out to $260 vs $30. I figure I have enough lube to last for many years.

I dumped 100pcs of 223 brass in a plastic container, squirted them about 3-4 times, shook them around, then a couple more squirts for good measure. Let them sit for 30-45mins for the alcohol to evaporate and started sizing. Works just as well as the bought stuff and don't even have to wash my hands afterword, just rub the lanolin oil into my hands for no dry skin.

Yep. same here..