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I've owned 4 of them over the years. I don't care for them because they bite my hand badly with either the roweled or spurred hammer to the point that I am bloody every time I shoot one. It, and the Walther PPK series, are the most painful handguns I ever used because of hammer bite.

The factory safety is small and stiff to operate.

The ones I owned had heavy triggers, which I understand are a function of the magazine safety. Personally I don't care for a magazine safety.

The magazine safety also prevented the magazines from dropping free.

I understand that a couple hundred bucks of gunsmithing can solve most of these problems.

Maybe the new HP's are better, but I would never own one again. It was a brilliant design when it was introduced but there are better options today as far as I am concerned.

But lots of folks love them and love makes the world go 'round.

Last edited by wildhobbybobby; 02/09/16.

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Originally Posted by wildhobbybobby
I've owned 4 of them over the years. I don't care for them because they bite my hand badly with either the roweled or spurred hammer to the point that I am bloody every time I shoot one. It, and the Walther PPK series, are the most painful handguns I ever used because of hammer bite.

The factory safety is small and stiff to operate.

The ones I owned had heavy triggers, which I understand are a function of the magazine safety. Personally I don't care for a magazine safety.

The magazine safety also prevented the magazines from dropping free.

I understand that a couple hundred bucks of gunsmithing can solve most of these problems.

Maybe the new HP's are better, but I would never own one again. It was a brilliant design when it was introduced but there are better options today as far as I am concerned.

But lots of folks love them and love makes the world go 'round.


The magazine safety and trigger "issue" can be resolved sitting at your own table in less than one beer's time. Small hammer, drift punch (or the proper sized equivalent), and YouTube. If you can drive a finish nail and tie your own shoes, you can remove the mag disconnect and immediately improve the trigger.


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The C&S no bite hammer kits do a good job of stopping hammer bite. And as a side benefit usually results in a much better trigger pull. They come in several shapes and styles.

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Cylinder & Slide says they can get the trigger down to a crisp 5 lbs, without removing the mag safety (they won't remove it, for liability reasons).

Novak's shop also used to customize them, however I don't see a website for Novak's any more.

I have two of them, one a MkIII and then Dad's Belgian Browning. I've always liked them as a slim & ergonomic pistol, well balanced for the cartridge, and much handier than most of the Hi-cap 9mm's. If you prefer a single action auto, but want more capacity, the BHP is still valid.


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Saw that Nighthawk has started offering custom Hi-Powers

http://www.nighthawkcustom.com/pistols/new/browning-hi-power


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I shoot this one a lot. Basic is good.
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Love the BHP, but they're expensive...

Look for a used Charles Daly HP on gunbroker. For about $400. Have a gunsmith remove the magazine safety and your good to go!

I've owned both Browning's and the Charles Daly copy. The copy is service grade reliable and if you want it worked over by a gunsmith, go for it.

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Thanks for all the help. There is a MKIII advertised about an hour's drive away, I believe I will go look at it this weekend. I'm not sure if it's a cast frame or not. I suspect it will need a few parts from C&S based on this thread but that's within the budget.

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Originally Posted by InternetGuru
Thanks for all the help. There is a MKIII advertised about an hour's drive away, I believe I will go look at it this weekend. I'm not sure if it's a cast frame or not. I suspect it will need a few parts from C&S based on this thread but that's within the budget.
Don't even give a second thought to the cast vs. forged frame; both are completely fine and most would say the cast frames are actually a little tougher. If you ever have a problem with a Hi Power it won't be related to cast vs. forged.

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Mine started as a rough 1980 production gun that my wife bought me cheap for our anniversary one year. I did all the work piecemeal as time and money allowed and shot it a bunch along the way. C&S No Bite kit, plain black Novaks, Herrett grips, C&S safety, sportsman's scabbard holster by Diamond D leather, texture on the front and back by a good friend who is a master engraver, and polish blue by me.

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Originally Posted by GunGeek
Originally Posted by InternetGuru
Thanks for all the help. There is a MKIII advertised about an hour's drive away, I believe I will go look at it this weekend. I'm not sure if it's a cast frame or not. I suspect it will need a few parts from C&S based on this thread but that's within the budget.
Don't even give a second thought to the cast vs. forged frame; both are completely fine and most would say the cast frames are actually a little tougher. If you ever have a problem with a Hi Power it won't be related to cast vs. forged.


Roger that; cast is good. Slightly different feel, but mucho strong. This MKIII custom was built by Don Williams.
Bob

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Like your BHP. Very interesting treatment of the front & back straps on that grip. How were the raised dots created?


Is life so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be purchased at the price of chains and slavery? Forbid it Almighty God! I know not what course others may take, but as for me, give me liberty of give me death! P. Henry

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Originally Posted by Wildcatter264
Like your BHP. Very interesting treatment of the front & back straps on that grip. How were the raised dots created?


The raised dots are created using a square graver deiven into the workpiece. Under a loupe they look like tiny woodrasp teeth.

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