Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Muzzleloaders Dyna-Bore Coat

A friend has asked me to treat his muzzle loader with Dyna-Bore Coat. Any quirks specific to front stuffers that I need to know about?

Thanks for any help that you can give me!

I treated a hunting buddies T/C pro hunter .50 a few years
primarily due to he does not take care of his guns. The .50 bore diameter took almost half a bottle to coat. the bore.

Seasoning the barrel with 30 shots was a pain in the azz since it was not my rifle. Much easier to seat bullets and clean after shooting as long as your using Blackhorn 209.

Doc

half a bottle? WOW that was way to much IMO. The thinner it goes on, the better.

Tradtional, or in-line? Either way, the main thing would be to remove the breech plug or nipple so you don't clog the flash hole, and keep it out of the threads.

Inline. I was planning to remove the breech plug for the application.

I was wondering about rubbing voids in the coating when loading bullets for the heat treating firing. How many rounds are actually needed to get it set with Triple 7 or BH 209?

Thanks!

I've done four ML guns all out of one bottle. Cured with 5 shot BH 209 is nice and clean to begin with and they load easier now. You can do more barrels with less DBC if you batch them.

The best way to avoid using an excessive amount of DBC is use a shotgun swab (per recommendations) but cut it down. All you need is essentially a round swab ball instead of a full length swab.

Don't worry about how many rounds it takes to cure or rubbing voids in the coating. Once it dries it will cure as you continue to shoot it. Just don't use an abrasive cleaning method.

And ... The stuff works.

Some muzzleloader companies install DBC in their rifles before they leave the factory. Or at least they used to.

it takes 10 rounds to set up and up to 40 rounds to cure it.

After the first 10 rounds, fully clean it. Avoid using the broze brushes. You'll have to get some nylon brushes and avoid any cleaner that polishes metal.

I have been using it on MZ's for about 10 years and I really don't go out of my way to do anything special. I use a proper sized bore mop and swab the barrel per instructions. I then shoot it 10-20 times and clean the bore with a wet(water) patch between shots. Very easy to clean the bore and no rust that I can see.

When I build a flintlock, I disassemble the lock and use the Dyna Bore on the lock - especially the interior parts on the lock. I then put the parts on an old cookie sheet and heat them for about 30 minutes at 400*. After the parts cool, I coat them in Dyna-Shield. Maybe it is all in my imagination, but I never have any rust on the lock. I have a Chambers ESR with their big round faced lock polished mirror bright. The lock has never received any special care and it never has had a speck of rust. It is also VERY easy to clean the lock.

I can't answer the question about how many, but if you're worried about scraping the DBC off while loading, use a slip fit conical like a Powerbelt. The bullet is slightly under bore-sized and the plastic skirt is slightly over bore-sized but loads easily and holds the bullet in place over the powder charge.

Thanks for all the replies! Onward and upward!

When you guys are shooting to season the barrel, do you shoot sabots or balls or something else? Also, does the type of powder matter?

Thanks.

Good info guys. Seems to me like this would be a nice add to the bore on blued rifles, as they tend to not be as durable as stainless. Of course I guess it can't hurt on any of them.

mudhen... post up your results after, curious to hear how it went.

doesn't matter. all you are doing is heating the barrel. when you first load it,it will be tighter then normal to load.as you fire it,it get easier and slicker til its smooth as glass.

They recommended copper/copper plated to generate more heat when I first asked about their bore coat. 10 shots to set it up and 40 shots to cure it, cleaning every 10 shots or between shots if you are using a dirty powder like T7.