Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots New model Winchester low wall .17 Mach II

I am disappointed in scope mounts for new Lowalls.

Have leupy mounts and there are 2 problems.

1) need 0.125 shim to bring mounts in plane.

2) cannot move leupy 3X9 scope rearward enough to have anywhere near full field of vision. Cannot creep up enough for scope to be at all useable.

Because the tapered octagon BBL. places the leupy mount too far forward….I will mill off the rear of the mount to create clearance so I can turn it around . I still need 1 1/2" more rear movement. I may try a leupy ring extension.

Winchester has Tally making bases for the 1885. However, the ring position is the same as the leupy…. above the screw holes.
I spoke with winchester ….and for sure they have the same problem. Tally has worked up their base to Winchester specs.

Engineers must have worked for John Deere in the past.
Yes ,I know I can get a scope with a longer tube. I may have to.Not crazy about leupy anyway.

I looked at the bases on a .223 Browning low wall and they are Leupolds but are offset quite a bit from the mounting screw locations. Have they changed the location or spacing of the screws so that the offset Leupold bases won't fit the new model?

stantdm,

I don't know what the Low wall centerfire rifle screw spacing is.

However on the rimfire the leupy and the Tally mounts place the front ring directly above the screws, which is the problem. The scope will only move rearward up to the front bell.

I put Leupold mounts and STD rings on my .22 WRM with a Nikon Prostaff 4X RF scope.

Works well for me, although I may have to get medium height rings--there is very little "thumb clearance" below the scope for cocking the hammer with the low height rings. I can do it, but it's kinda slow.

Not usually a problem because I'm in the habit of carrying the rifle with the breech open when hunting and closing it is as fast as cocking the hammer. We'll see.

I have tried to teach myself enough mechanical engineering to make scope mounts.

A big help was a guy who is an engineer at Caterpillar posting on practical machinist about the limit of strength of screws. He said to keep the female threads from stripping, the length should be 1.5 times the root. Longer than that and the screw breaks in tension. I always thought it broke in torque, but that is not how it works. Since then my brother, a retired machinist, says that everyone knows that.





This is me making a combination scope mount, bi pod hanger for 1885 falling block 257 Roberts Ackley Rimmed.

Nice combo.
The proper tension, or " stretching" of a bolt is the factor by which said bolt stays tight.
And , to be sure, the proper length and depth are a part of the formula.

"Fastener technology"--a fascinating field. If you do it right, things don't fall apart. If you don't, well....I wouldn't fly in your airplane. Or hunt with your rifle.

Talley cut mine into two smaller bases, polished & re-blued at no extra charge.