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Originally Posted by JGRaider
Where can I get this West repair kit? Sounds like the ticket.

I want one, too.

Sounds a heap easier than what I've been doing; I'm basically lazy... grin

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Here is one place to get them. There are others, I'm sure. I found this in 30 seconds via Google. I use West System in much larger quantities, but occasionally buy a repair kit to keep in my mobile tool kit. When I do so, I get them at a local marine distributor.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...p;familyName=WEST+System+101+Repair+Kits


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Ironically WEST epoxy is available at the West (not related) Marine store.


"There's more to optics than meets the eye."--anon

"...most of us would be better off losing half a pound around the waist than half a pound on our rifle."--dhg

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Having spent many years working in the adhesive industry (not epoxies), I would like to warn against taking any actions such as thinning which are not specifically recommended by the manufacturer. If you thin an adhesive, in nearly all cases you weaken it.

Adhesive manufacturers of repute such as the WEST people employ skilled chemists to develop and produce their product. They have a far better feel for what works and what does not than any end user, especially casual home hobbyists. Use a thinner which is not appropriate to the adhesive and you run the risk of making a bad situation far, far worse.

WEST and System Three are two very high end epoxy manufacturers and you can (properly) use their product with confidence.


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Yes, never thin epoxy or add anything to it not specifically recommended by the supplier.


"There's more to optics than meets the eye."--anon

"...most of us would be better off losing half a pound around the waist than half a pound on our rifle."--dhg

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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Here is one place to get them. There are others, I'm sure. I found this in 30 seconds via Google. I use West System in much larger quantities, but occasionally buy a repair kit to keep in my mobile tool kit. When I do so, I get them at a local marine distributor.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...p;familyName=WEST+System+101+Repair+Kits


Thank you very much!


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Originally Posted by OregonCoot
Having spent many years working in the adhesive industry (not epoxies), I would like to warn against taking any actions such as thinning which are not specifically recommended by the manufacturer. If you thin an adhesive, in nearly all cases you weaken it.

Adhesive manufacturers of repute such as the WEST people employ skilled chemists to develop and produce their product. They have a far better feel for what works and what does not than any end user, especially casual home hobbyists. Use a thinner which is not appropriate to the adhesive and you run the risk of making a bad situation far, far worse.

WEST and System Three are two very high end epoxy manufacturers and you can (properly) use their product with confidence.



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Check this out.

Here's a discount store with really good prices.

They also have Marine Tex, used by many for glass bedding.

It's the West 101 Repair Kit that we want, I think...

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.c...+to+Search.x=26&Click+to+Search.y=10

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Thanks, great link!

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Take note that the repair kit comes with fast hardener. For repairing hairline cracks (or most repairs, for that matter) you really want the slow or extra slow, especially in warm weather.


"There's more to optics than meets the eye."--anon

"...most of us would be better off losing half a pound around the waist than half a pound on our rifle."--dhg

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Agree on slow being better for this application and slow is ofter stronger.

What kit has slow/extra slow hardener?

Still looking.

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What is considered slow? 30 minutes, 1 hour.....?????


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West has three hardeners,

205 is std.
206 is slow
209 is extra slow

I'm gonna call tomorrow and ask some questions.

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I just use fast for everything. The slow isn't that much slower, and the fast is slow enough to allow plenty of time for glue-ups. Just today I glued up a 5x12x4"deep box with dovetailed joints with 205 West System- wetted out with one ounce of glue, mixed a fresh ounce and thickened it, applied it then clamped it up. It was still liquidous when I got around to cleaning up the squeeze-out.

The thing with any epoxy is it'll "kick over" (set up) quicker in large quantities, or in deep quantities- deep meaning, say, an ounce of it in a dixie cup will harden waaaay quicker than if that same ounce were spread out thinly on a pallet. Mix it, spread it out, and take your time getting the glue-up done right. (I'm not advocating a leisurely approach to epoxy glue-ups though. Have all your tools and clamps laid out ready to go, have done a dry clamping run ahead of mixing the glue, and don't allow any interruptions. A steady pace wins the race.)

We used the 209 "Tropical" hardener in the boat shop on really nasty hot summer afternoons, outdoors under a blazing sun. Even then, if it was normal smallish repair/glue-up, the fast stuff was ok- but you had to shake your butt and git 'er done!


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So, you're saying go with the 205 hardener that comes with the West Systems 101 kit...?

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I would.


"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz
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Thanks, gnoahhh.



JG,

The best price on the West Systems 101 kit that I've found is the link I posted. That may be the way to go for your cracked stock.

Just me, I'd still drill a few holes thru the crack from inside the inletting to facilitate getting material way down in there. If you have a turkey injector or something like that to inject the material, then let it wick into the crack before compression in the padded vice.

Be sure you got some solvent or that injector will be toast. blush

You may want to get epoxy solvent when you order the kit. It will come in handy cleaning up.

Let us know how it works out.

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You're probably right DF.

I sure like the sound of letting that Shop Vac do the work though, like 120 said..... smile Also wondering if that rubber door stop wedge would give a very slight bit of relief if wedged in there?

Lot's of good ideas here. Much appreciated.


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To wedge it, I'd think you'd have to drive a chisel into the crack just enough to gap it slightly. I don't think a rubber wedge will do it.

The holes would assure material getting all the way down to the bottom of the crack.

You'll have to work with it and do what seem best.

Shop vac sounds interesting, especially if it works, just haven't tried it.

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If you have a mill hold down set, a 1/2" bolt and a coupling nut will make a fine mini jack.


Originally Posted by BrentD

I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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