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I'm looking to build one of these. What are the options I've got on this. I don't mind either building or buying a complete upper. Whatever it is, it needs to be accurate.

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AR accuracy is almost always 95% barrel... I have no clue on 6.8 but if accuracy was required, I'd be putting a custom tube on by a known AR smith....


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Originally Posted by Oklahomahunter
I'm looking to build one of these. What are the options I've got on this. I don't mind either building or buying a complete upper. Whatever it is, it needs to be accurate.

Accurate for hunting or accurate for paper?
Try 68forums, they will be experienced with the subject.

Last edited by constructor; 04/22/16.

"I threw a touchdown pass in the last minute to win the state championship game. I know it was 30 years ago and not relevant to this discussion but it makes me important and believable, it's the only great thing I even accomplished"
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I don't separate accurate for hunting or paper. It either shoots well or it doesn't.

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Thtas a BROAD answer.... Well for me should be at the worst capable of .5 moa 5 shot groups on average, at the max distance you are going to use it.


We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
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Just so this doesn't get bogged down, lets go for 3" groups at 300 yards.

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I had a Wilson Combat Lightweight Hunter in 6.8 that was scary accurate. They sell compete rifles and uppers. they are not cheap but they do shoot well. Killed several pigs with it.


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I would look at ARP barrels. They did a lot of the legwork to keep the 6.8 alive via the SPCII

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Wilson, ARP, Bison, and White Oak are generally very good barrels. You can get a bolt matched to the barrel for most of these, if that is important to you.

I have Wilsons and a White Oak, they generally run MOA with most ammo, and if I pay attention.

You need a bolt, barrel, and magazine to covert to 6.8, everything else is the same.

Last edited by AH64guy; 04/22/16.
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I have had good luck with White Oak Armament barrel's in the 6.8 and would recommend them.

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Originally Posted by Oklahomahunter
I don't separate accurate for hunting or paper. It either shoots well or it doesn't....Just so this doesn't get bogged down, lets go for 3" groups at 300 yards.

That is why I asked. A 1 moa hunting barrel is not the same as a 1/4MOA match barrel. You don't need to spend $500 for a high end match barrel if all you expect is a 1MOA hunting barrel that you could buy for $200.


"I threw a touchdown pass in the last minute to win the state championship game. I know it was 30 years ago and not relevant to this discussion but it makes me important and believable, it's the only great thing I even accomplished"
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you'll never go wrong with White Oak.


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Bison has been very good to me so far with about 8, 1/2 moa 6.8. Ben and Dave are top shelf.

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when i built mine everyone was saying go with a 18-20" barrel but wanting a lighter weight hunting rifle i built a 16". its a wilson barrel and i get 2 1/2 " groups at 250yds with factory hornady 120sst ammo.

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did you buy the matched bolt with the barrel? I have a stag bolt in mine and while I am not 100% on the barrel as it came with brown cutting fluid in it, the gun is certainly not a 5 shot 1 inch gun at 100 yards. Its more like 2 inches at 100 yards.


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There are a few things about the 6.8 that makes it a little different from a 5.56. First there is .010 difference between the the minimum and maximum allowable chamber sizes . If the barrel bolt combo are just under the no-go and the factory ammo is .004 under the minimum you can have .012-.0013" of slop which hurts accuracy. Sizing the brass(shoulder location) .002-.004 under the actual chamber size helps accuracy.
SSA brass is .415" dia at the base, Hornady and most of the others are .417-.418, the chamber is .422 minimum, .424 max. That slop doesn't help accuracy either. Hornady 110gr HPBT seem to be more accurate than most factory ammo.
Muzzle rise with the 6.8 is a little worse than a 5.56 especially with a shorter lighter barrel, a sling or some front end control can help.
The lock time on an AR is slower than a Rem 700. Many guys have a hard time when they first start shooting ARs until they use proper trigger follow-through. A good non mil spec trigger makes a huge improvement.

Last edited by constructor; 04/23/16.

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Constructor, how do you chamber your barrels?


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Originally Posted by BarryC
Constructor, how do you chamber your barrels?
What do you mean?


"I threw a touchdown pass in the last minute to win the state championship game. I know it was 30 years ago and not relevant to this discussion but it makes me important and believable, it's the only great thing I even accomplished"
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Constructor when do you think you will have your super-bolts back in stock? I would like to try one in my 6.8.


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