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Glad you like it:

http://www.autotrader.com/car-reviews/2015-ford-f-150-vs-2015-toyota-tundra-which-is-better-242086

Never drove one myself. My Toyota experience kept me away. Hope you got the 5.7. The mileage may not be great, but the performance should be. Another factor to me-the availability of nearby service. Ford and Chevy parts and service are nearby anywhere in the country. We have a Toyota dealer 28 miles away, but it does not have a good reputation. Other than that, the nearest dealer for me is 75 miles away.

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It's got the 5.7. Dealer service never entered my mind since I've never needed it with any toyota I've had. There is a toyota dealer the same distance as the local ford dealer should I ever want it. The only parts I've ever bought from a toyota dealer have been oil filters.

As far as the article, like all car mags it compares things that don't matter at all to me. The only plus I'll give the Ford is the EPA fuel mileage, but real world reports are that the F-150 doesn't get appreciably better than the Tundra. Reliability is 90% of what I choose a vehicle upon and the toyota is light years ahead of the ford in that respect. I'm sure the tundra (or F-150) both pull OK but I have an old dodge diesel that does all my pulling duties so I don't care about that. The interior is plenty nice and has more features than I really want, I don't care at all whether or not it's got wi-fi in the truck.

Really it all boils down to reliability for me, as the miles get put on Fords habitually break a lot more than toyotas. I'm a high mileage driver. If I traded before the warranty was up like a lot of people I'd be okay with driving a ford, but I don't and need something that'll hold up.

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Originally Posted by carlm
Glad you like it:

http://www.autotrader.com/car-reviews/2015-ford-f-150-vs-2015-toyota-tundra-which-is-better-242086

Never drove one myself. My Toyota experience kept me away. Hope you got the 5.7. The mileage may not be great, but the performance should be. Another factor to me-the availability of nearby service. Ford and Chevy parts and service are nearby anywhere in the country. We have a Toyota dealer 28 miles away, but it does not have a good reputation. Other than that, the nearest dealer for me is 75 miles away.


Silverado 1500 is unreliable at 75K Ford isn't a whole lot better. A Tundra would last me 3x as long. Best that Chevy and Ford dealers are closeby.

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Originally Posted by Crow hunter
It's got the 5.7. Dealer service never entered my mind since I've never needed it with any toyota I've had. There is a toyota dealer the same distance as the local ford dealer should I ever want it. The only parts I've ever bought from a toyota dealer have been oil filters.

As far as the article, like all car mags it compares things that don't matter at all to me. The only plus I'll give the Ford is the EPA fuel mileage, but real world reports are that the F-150 doesn't get appreciably better than the Tundra. Reliability is 90% of what I choose a vehicle upon and the toyota is light years ahead of the ford in that respect. I'm sure the tundra (or F-150) both pull OK but I have an old dodge diesel that does all my pulling duties so I don't care about that. The interior is plenty nice and has more features than I really want, I don't care at all whether or not it's got wi-fi in the truck.

Really it all boils down to reliability for me, as the miles get put on Fords habitually break a lot more than toyotas. I'm a high mileage driver. If I traded before the warranty was up like a lot of people I'd be okay with driving a ford, but I don't and need something that'll hold up.


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I have little experience with vehicles having 100's of thousands of miles. I've only kept two vehicles long enough to replace the original tires in the last 20 years. The '13 Ford F250 6.7L Power Stroke only had 28,000 miles on it. Great truck, just too much for my old legs to climb into. The 2003 F350 Crew Cab long bed with the 6.0 Power Stroke I had-now that was a POS. Ford jobbed out the engine and it was not built to spec.
I've owned a lot of vehicles. ALL have had good times and bad, good and bad QC and good and bad models, including foreign made ones (sticking self accelerating gas pedals, Takata air bags, faked diesel emissions) You pay your money and take your chances. Part of living with the new "global economy."

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I'm starting to shop to get rid of my Toyota.

The "stability control" system is engaging at inappropriate times. I had all the work done the dealership thought might fix it 2 weeks ago.

Saturday on the way home coming down the freeway it engaged again locking up the brakes hard without my foot on the brake pedal 3 times in about 3 seconds. It was a rodeo .. that's no exaggeration. I think the guy in the lane next to me crapped himself. I might have as well but I was too busy.

The dealership says there's nothing left to try. I'm on my own. They said I just have to deal with it.

I don't know what the replacement will be. It won't be a Toyota. If they can't fix this one they don't get to sell me a new one.

Tom


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Originally Posted by T_O_M
I'm starting to shop to get rid of my Toyota.

The "stability control" system is engaging at inappropriate times. I had all the work done the dealership thought might fix it 2 weeks ago.

Saturday on the way home coming down the freeway it engaged again locking up the brakes hard without my foot on the brake pedal 3 times in about 3 seconds. It was a rodeo .. that's no exaggeration. I think the guy in the lane next to me crapped himself. I might have as well but I was too busy.

The dealership says there's nothing left to try. I'm on my own. They said I just have to deal with it.

I don't know what the replacement will be. It won't be a Toyota. If they can't fix this one they don't get to sell me a new one.

Tom


Holy [bleep] that sounds scary! My Honda has a button to turn of the stability control but I guess Toyota does not?

Did they replace the ABS ECU and all the ABS wheel sensors?



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Originally Posted by Whiptail
[quote=T_O_M] My Honda has a button to turn of the stability control but I guess Toyota does not?

My 2012 Tundra does have a switch to engage or disengage the stability control. I can only assume that his doesn't work for some reason.


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It does ... sort of.

Once the vehicle is moving, the button must be held down else it re-engages. If you pull over / stop, then hold the button down for 3 seconds, it will turn the system off, however, it resets any time the engine is started and when you do, you're looking at a dashboard full of amber lights in your face.

It's a pain in the ass, probably somewhat ok in four wheeling situations but decidedly unhandy on pavement at highway to freeway speeds where the need arises. That's actually when it would potentially be useful if it were working properly.

A hacked work-around is not the same as working right.

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I have a 2011 tundra with the OME suspension. I like the truck but wouldn't buy another one. My gas tank is 25 gallons and I get about 12.5 around town. Toyotas idea of a rear locking diff is a joke. The rear diff is open but the brakes are applied to the spinning wheel in the hope that the other one will gain traction. All that does is twist the axle shift and cause other problems. In a muddy or snowy field it is very noticeable.

From what the OP is describing I would look at an F150 with a 2.7 or a Ram with 3.0 ecodiesel.


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That's not exactly right. The brake-based system is a limited slip, not a locker. Toyota offers an e-locker on some models of both Tundra and Tacoma which is exactly that, a locking differential.

Nissan does the same. Prior to my Taco I drove a Frontier which had brake-based limited slips and the e-locker.

Their so-called limited slips are indeed pretty pathetic with both brands. The e-lockers for both work very well. I think the brake-based systems are a poor design. If they're going to the trouble of doing limited slips they should do them right ... differential-based. The best combination setup of a locker which is a limited slip when the locker is not engaged is the Detroit E-locker. What they're trying to do, though, is use the brake-based limited slip as part of their stability control systems .. the piece that is screwing up badly for me. A differential-based limited slip can't be used in that manner.

I'd really like to find a new 4WD truck with no stability control and no ABS. For gravel, ABS is a real liability. That's one place I'll give Toyota some credit, the ABS is not as ill-behaved on gravel as Nissan's was, at least in my sample of one truck of each brand.

As I look farther into my problem, a few people have posted what seems to be a way to jumper around the yaw sensor which is the source of my problem. I have to find better diagrams and see what I can do. It's one last thing to do before trading the Taco in.

Tom


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Originally Posted by Rock Chuck
Originally Posted by hillbill
yes I would agree on the final drive ratio but the low end is where the difference is. the T is in the same ball park @ 60 mph.
It's funny that some think the Toy is trying to be a 2500, If that were the case it would have been labeled as such.

I too have a 2500, a 2000 Dodge with a cummins, it gets the heavy work and handles it quite well but again, for a half ton the toy truck shines..
That's what they're tellling customers. I've talked to a couple Toyota dealers and both told me that all the parts on a Tundra are rated for a 3/4 ton except the springs. If that's the case, why don't they swap springs and market a 3/4?

Sounds like a car dealer talking...

To the OP. Decide if you need a 3/4 or 1/2 ton. For a 3/4, go diesel. You see a lot of them so equipped and the resale is much better than gas, and for a reason.

If you don't pull trailers or really need a 3/4, go 1/2 ton. They ride smoother and burn less gas.

I can't get in the Tundra/F-150 argument, I'm a Z-71 guy; I buy'em new, keep'em a LONG time, like the way they handle and ride.

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Don't confuse traction control with limited slip. All the brands have some form of traction control using the brakes to maintain traction on slick roads. It's not the same as limited slip. LS is in the differential. TC is designed for highway use while LS is for offroad.


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