Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles What all is needed and what brand do you use????

Any input is greatly appreciated. I've never reloaded nor know anything about reloading. I've always just shot factory ammo. However, I picked up a Tikka CTR 260 and would like to start reloading for it.

What brand does everyone use? Lyman? RCBS? Hornady? Lee?

What all does one have to buy? All inclusive aside from the obvious, brass, bullets, powder and primers.

Thanks,
Jarod

Everyone's list will vary as much as the guns they shoot.
I would start at the start. Go out and buy a Nosler, Hornady, and Barnes reloading manuals. Read them and then read them again. By then you will know what you need and what can be put off for later.
And buy a chronograph.

Get a reloading handbook or two and read the how-to section. I think the Lyman book has the best one but they've all got plenty of information.

My equipment is a mix of Lyman, RCBS and some Hornady. I have a bit of Lee but don't really like it. Some folks do.

Press, dies, powder scales (non electric for me), case trimmer, caliper, case block, case lube, and handbook are what I would consider the minimum.

Some items you can adapt from things you have already. For example, instead of a powder trickler, I used a plastic spoon and a small plastic container. 37 years later, I still use them for small batches or load development.

Dale

I like my RCBS press, but I figure most of them work the same. I do second the chronograph.

Some stuff I like and recommend:
RCBS Chargemaster powder measure/dispenser
Grip-n-Pull bullet puller
Lee Collet dies

I will also add to buy a stuck case remover right out of the gate and you will most likely never need it. If you don't have one collecting dust you will be staring at your new rifle that your dying to shoot and holding a sizing die with a stuck case.

I'd start by buying a kit like the RCBS Rock chucker supreme master reloading kit. They can be found for $269.00 at Ebay with free shipping. These new kits also come with a Nosler reloading manual. You'll be hard pressed to find a better deal than this. You'll then want to add:

1. Powder trickler
2. Dial calipers
3. A few reloading manuals (depending on which bullets you load)
4. Powered chamfering tool of some sort.
5. Case trimmer.
6. Tumbler

Some other things that may not be as necessary:

1. Bullet puller
2. Stuck case remover
3. Chronograph. Sorry guys, I loaded for YEARS without one.

I started on the RCBS supreme master reloading kit 20 years ago and it's till going strong:

plenty of good info, none bad..

I'd also recommend picking up a couple of different die sets for the ONE caliber you might be reloading... die sets are cheap in the scope of things, costing about as much as a box of ammo or of premium bullets... then they last forever...

I like having an extra or two around, in case their is a problem with one, you're not dead in the water...

Some have a feature or two that I like at certain times over another.. such as a set of Lees with the collet die... yet I size the body with the body die when the shoulder needs bumping back.

I can't live without a universal deprimer or two...

These are things I learned after being self taught.. if it can screw up, I've managed to learn that early, about everything one can think of.

another thing I recently found out about is a stuck case problem, and a solution... even tho I have a stuck case remover set up, like Les suggests, I hated using the darn thing...I don't find it very user friendly..

so what I recently discovered, is getting a stuck case, I just left it in the shell holder, and took a crescent wrench and just slowly unscrewed the die with it, while holding the base of the shellholder...

worked like a charm and it was the simplest way I've experienced taking care of a stuck case...don't know why I didn't figure that one out a long time ago...

I've had a Lee Challenger Press, a Lyman Crusher press, and now have a RCBS Rock chucker 4. It's no contest, get the Rock Chucker! The press is the heart of reloading. I inherited my son's reloading gear. His RCBS case trimmer is far easier to use than my Redding case trimmer. I like my Redding BR3 powder measure and Redding scale. My dies are a mix of brands. For standard rifle dies if loading for the best accuracy I'd buy RCBS or Lyman All American dies (if they are like the older ones). I can't say much about bench rest dies. I do have one Forster bench rest seating die I like really well. I recommend a VLD type chamfering tool. They make seating bullets easier and especially flat base bullets. The Lyman reloading manual is my recommended first manual.

Jarod

Opinions are like belly buttons...

Most important for beginners is/are Reloading Manuals - at least 2.

The RCBS reloading kit is hard to beat.

I have 1 (ONE) set of Lee dies and DONT like them as well as RCBS, Lyman, C - H,

A case trimming set up will be needed long before a case tumbler.

A clear, organized bench or heavy desk in an area where you can concentrate w/o much distraction.

Good luck, I started like you in 1975 or so, just use common sense.

Jerry

The first and most valuable thing to find is a local mentor.

I have reloading tools from about all of the major manufacturers, and use them all. Most of t is good stuff. A lot of stuff is available from companies long out of business like Herters. That's perfectly good stuff and about indestructible.

Get a chronograph immediately! It's your best indcaton of pressure. NEVER WORK UP LOADS WITHOUT IT!

Don't scrimp on your calipers. Find a machinist to teach you how to use them well.

Everyone should own a balance beam scale, They are the gold standard for making sure.

You can save money on things like stuck case removers by using a 1/4-20 tap, a 1/4-20 body drill a 2" 1/4-20 bolt a fender washer and a 9/16 socket.

I consider hand priming tool like the RCBS or Lee indispensible.

A good cabinet like a tool box with a lot of drawers is really nice. Really, Really nice.

From the get-go set up your loading room without carpet. Static and loading do not go together and vacuum cleaners and dropped primers do not get along well.

Miles -

IMO that is overstressing the importance of a chronograph. The vast majority of reloaders started w/o a graph.

Jarod - A chronograph is a very useful tool and can be a joy or heartbreak.

W/O a graph you can compare charges from manuals and online and you will be safe just DON'T start with max charges.

When you decide you need a graph buy the best one you can afford.

Jerry

Lots of good info for you here so far, but the 3 items above are far and above the best.

Hard to go wrong w/ the Lee Anniversary kit which has everything you need to get started except dies.

Once you read the manual (included in the kit) and have been going a while you can tweak your set up according to your tastes/needs.

That's what I did anyway and it worked out beautifuly. Lee, IMHO, is one of the few companies that makes inexpensive but not cheap products.

Same here. Lee kit

Jarod,

I started out with the RCBS kit that many here are recommending. My thoughts are its a great kit and you can't go wrong. With that said (would I go that route again?)

My answer is no! IMO the Lee kit is less money and I've found many aspects of Lee equipment to be better. Ive used both extensively.

Dies, I've used them all. Forster Benchrest 2 die set are the best bang for you buck IMO. I also use a Lee neck size die so I can most of the time (Neck size only) when I reload rather than (full length size) every time. Works the brass much less and so brass lasts much longer.

Other items you'll need

Digital Calipers
Neck Trimmer
Bullet puller Hammer




Shod

Guys I try not to be a RCBS snob. I have Lyman & C-H dies and have no complaints.

I ONLY have 1 set of Lee dies and IME they don't lock up AS positively when you're thru setting them up, as the other brands.

Also there is 'something' that rattles in the seating die. I haven't examined it to find out what it is, but I notice it.

For those 2 reasons I'm apprehensive about Lee dies. I also have an assortment of Lee hand tools, cutter, case gauges, chamfer tool, etc.


Jerry

I always thought RCBS was cheap/inexpensive, so that's all I ever bought. I guess if that makes me a "RCBS snob", I'll confess its true. I also always thought the high end chit was way overrated when you can set up your regular ol run of the mill RCBS fl dies to perform just as good as the more expensive chit. I'm getting less than .004" TIR with my RCBS dies. Perfectly good enough for the kind of hunting and shooting I do..

A good example of this is with the loads I worked up for a buddies rifle yesterday. He's been wanting to shoot his new 22-250, so I threw some loads together and we went out even though it was a little windy and rainy. His el-cheapo Savage XP Trophy hunter seems to be pretty un-finicky. Everything I shot with it was sub moa. No Chronograph was used. I'm pretty sure ES and SD's are pretty minimal. Pressures are just fine as well :

BSA -

My comment per RCBS snob was NOT aimed at anyone! !

In the 70s I began with all RCBS equipment. I don't recall RCBS being cheaper. During all these years I've not had any problems with RCBS and many report that their C S is superb. I wouldn't know, never had any need.


I have a friend who uses the Orange Crush and WE like it. I admit to preferring RCBS but as I said, I have Lyman and C-H dies and 1 set of Lee.

I feel like my mind is open enuff to accept other brands, however I do have 2 objections to the Lee dies I have.

Just so there's no misunderstanding.


Jerry

Jwall,


The only Lee dies I have are the collet neck size die. I have one for each caliber. The other Lee dies I have no use for but the Lee collets are in my opinion my most useful die.

That's only because I like to neck size only for around 4 loadings before I full length size and bump the shoulder back. I anneal my brass right before I full length size.

Has anyone ever told you your an RCBS whore?





Shod

Go to a pawn shop and get a used RCBS Rockchucker or equivalent single stage press. Get the right shell holder and any available set of dies, a cheap balance scale and some One Shot case lube. Then forget most of what has been said about making this harder than it needs to be, ask a friend that has loaded before to help and start reloading.

It isn't rocket science, but it does need to be done right. When you have gotten some experience under your belt, then you can progress into some of the other advice, but for now just keep it simple...

A rcbs rockchucker or lee classic cast for the press. The rcbs RC kit is a good buy.

The thing that has improved my reloading the most is Forster Benchrest dies. They're all I buy any more although I do use the lee collet dies some. Just pony up the extra $$$ for the Forster dies, they're worth it. Skip the one shot lube & buy a tin of imperial sizing wax, it'll last the rest of your life.

I hesitate to say a beginner needs a chronograph but for me now it's imperative. You don't need "the best", a $100 prochrono does a great job. I wouldn't be without a case tumbler.

I have been handloading since 1953. I still have and use my old Lyman press some. My newer presses and dies are RCBS.

Lee makes some economy things.

I don't think we 'need' a chronograph. But if you like electronic things it's fine.

Only my 'friends' here.

Jerry

Jarod -

his handle is "shrapnel"...........



Shrap does NOT mention Reloading Manuals.....you must know where TO START.


IF - IF you know someone who 'reloads' that will help you, that's great.....I didn't know anyone who was reloading when I started, so I was all alone with 'books' and NO internet. After 40 + yrs of reloading (including the 'Hagel' years) I still have my eyes, nose, & fingers.



Jerry

edit for spelling

Let the original purchaser "tote the note" so to speak when buying reloading equipment, I have an entire room full of reloading equipment nearly all of it purchased used. Reloading is an expensive enough undertaking the equipment is made to last so why not take advantage of the savings to be had by buying used. I seldom pay more than 50% of what an item sells for new, if you're patient you can obtain most of what you need this way. I save on the cost of reloading manuals by borrowing from friends and copying the section(s) for the cartridges that I reload for. This information is then placed in caliber dedicated ring binders. Saves money and space, pick the ring binder for the cartridge you're loading for and you're good to go, plastic page protectors keep the info clean and make it more durable. If you have friends that reload bulk purchases of bullets, primers, powder can be another opportunity for cost savings. I found a cast bullet supplier near my home and asked for his bare bones pricing. He offered his best pricing for a 100K bullet purchase that could be mix-n-match, shipped in priority mail boxes with 70# limit made this bullet purchase as economical as possible. Just remember the K-I-S-S principle is your friend when it comes to reloading.

For the sake of simplicity I didn't spell everything out. For a single cartridge, 260 was mentioned, you could go to the LGS and look in a manual, the need to buy 3 manuals and read them from cover to cover for one cartridge is as much a waste of time as a chronograph and several other suggestions made here.

Reloading can be as hard as you make it, but to push someone into a complete manufacturing facility when the interest is as simple as a single cartridge is typical of the Campfire and the tendency to complicate things and then call each other names...

+1 and also what shrap said. After 30 years of reloading I now have 1/3 the equipment I started with but get 3 times the results. You can get all the 260 load info you need right here on the fire. You can access almost any load manual on the internet. As shrap said it's not rocket science but it does have to be done right to be safe. I would try to find someone with some experience to help out.

I've been on this forum for awhile and I've always found Shrapnal to have excellent (Common Sense) advice. His experience clearly shows

Shod

Shrap -

He said he had never reloaded. He doesn't know anything about dies, setting up or adjusting, seating, lubing, et.al.

I won't give him advice to skip or ignore the basics of getting started. There is a lot more helpful info in a good reloading manual and he would have it for repeated reference.

Yes Shod I generally agree with Shrapnel but us old hands sometimes take things for granted that novices DONT know.

Jerry

I have RCBS dies ~ 60%+.
I'd buy Hornady right now due to their rebate program.

When I started reloading all my equipment was Lyman. I don't remember if RCBS was in business yet.

A Lyman Spartan C press, a Lyman-Ohaus scale, Lyman Dies, Shell Holder and a Lyman Manual...that's all I had to start with. I used that for many years to produce very good ammo at low cost. My ammo shot groups 1/2 the size of factory ammo. The Lyman press was $12. I remember how acquiring a powder funnel made things go much easier.

I don't remember what the scale cost, but it turns out it was a high-end top quality scale and I still use it.

I still have the manual too and as a novice, that was the most important item I bought because I didn't know anyone else who loaded their own ammo in my area, and the internet was really slow back when I was 12 years old.

Jarod,

You didn't state what you will be reloading. A single stage press will meet most of your needs. If you load 50BMG, not all presses fit the bill. Depending on the starter kit, you may out grow it pretty quick. If you plan on reloading 223, 308, 45ACP, 9MM, basically any semi-auto, you may want to look at a progressive press.

Lots of good advice/posts above, here some more input:

If you are not sure this this may be your cup of tea, check out the For Sale thread on this site; Offer Up or some other online used site. Gun shows vendors IMO tend to over charge.

Start a Log. Whether you use a note book, spreadsheet, database, or some other app, record your load development. Take photos.

Set rules for yourself.
1) I never reload / fire a piece of brass more than 5 times.

2) I never mix brass and firearms. The life of my brass stays with one rifle. Each 30-06 has its lot of brass.

3) I keep my reloads in lots. I track the use of each lot

4) If a variable changes (rifle, bullet, brass manufacture, primer), I redo my load development. Its usually pretty close but safe to do especially if you are toward the top of the load range.

5) I always use at least two sources for loading data. Data from a powder manufacture and data from the bullet manufacture.

6) Take my time. Remember your building a bomb. It may take me an hour to neck size and load 20 pieces of brass but I can get half MOA at 100. Patience and Prudence are the two ladies of reloading.

7) I keep my work area isolated to just the rounds I am reloading. The only powder, bullets, primer, and brass at the bench is the one I'm using at the time. All other variables are put away

8) I weight each charge twice (2 different scales). Ok this is probably over board but remember I said these are my rules for myself.

I got into reloading to save money. I found that I shoot more and enjoy shooting even more with my reloads. My preferred 30-06 hunting load (130gr Barnes TTX 55grs of Varget) cost me $0.98 a reload. Switch to 150 Sierra Game Kings and I'm around $0.56 a reload. And I would hunt with that load. My 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser loads are much less expensive then any factory box. You'll find your loads are much more accurate then a factory's one-round-fits-all round and you'll have fun.

HaYen

For a lot of my loading weighing a charge even once is overboard.

Yes, he said in the OP, P 1--

"The first and most valuable thing to find is a local mentor."
^
This is always a good thing.

+1 and if I'm not mistaken exactly what shrap was trying to get at. You don't need to buy a sporting goods store to load for 1 cartridge.





Shod

I have the utmost respect for you sir. I've learned a lot from you, but I gotta me

Me too ! OLD habits........

I can't bring myself to start w/o weighing a few for CC.

Jerry

Everyone,

Thank you for the abundance of replies and advice you have shared. I am ready to put most of it to good use. I'm sure I will have many questions once I begin purchasing equipment and loading. First stop will likely be the classifieds for some used equipment or try and find some good sales on a few websites. Wishing I would have kept that RockCrusher I bought from Grizzly Industries last year for I believe $99 shipped. Decided not to reload at that time as I had an abundance of factory ammo.