Home Forums Miscellaneous Topics Rural Living What's a good multi purpose fertilizer

they will all be nitrogen and phosphorus might need to add lime as well depending on ph

Might want to read JJr's post again and then edit yours.....

Got it.............thanks!

Compost tea.

Lime first to get pH correct. After that it's whatever you choose. Licensed pesticide and fertilizer rep. 10-10-10
10-20-10. 8-3-5. Don't matter for what little you need. Seriously 50 lbs at $60 is your yearly budget. Lime first. You can not over lime.

Well, that last statement made me laugh. Obviously, you don't know much about soils other than your own. You are in PA, where the soil is acidic - you add the lime to get the pH up. I live in South Texas and add acid to my soil to get the pH down. If you add lime to my pH 8 soil, you won't grow anything, it would be like you adding more acid to your soil.

Lime is a neutralizer. Your pH is low with acidic soil. PH is high with alkaline soil. Lime is a great place to start. Penn State has a world known turf program. Cornell isn't to shabby either.

He didn't say anything about PH but the guy at the co-op said pretty much the same thing ej and others have said which was to use some lime (especially when planting) and then fertilize with a simple multi purpose like 10-10-10, etc.....
He wanted to sell me a pallet or two of the stuff but I didn't need quite that much..ha..so I picked up a bag of lime and some 16-16-16 (that's all they had) at Bi-Mart....That was about a week ago and nothings died yet...

FWIW....the soil around here must benefit from lime because every garden dept I've been to has a stack of the stuff right up front...

Fertilizer numbers reflect % of N-P-K.....Nitrogen - Phosphorous - Potassium



Nitrogen (N) encourages green growth.

Phosphorous (P) encourages flower and fruit growth.

Potassium (K) encourages root development.

Anything Boxer says should fertilize just about anything you would want to grow in any condition you would encounter...

Thanks....Captain Obvious....

Some folks don't know which nutrient benefits which situation. I'm guessing you do!

Many, many years ago I had added horse manure (pretty fresh) to a tomato patch only to find out that my incredibly awesomely green plants would not make fruit. Too much N, not enough P and K.

Found this online which is the point i was trying to make:

When to add nutrients during the tomato season

Once a plant is established in the garden, a phosphate-concentrated application (such as 0-46-0 commercial fertilizer) every 6-8 weeks increases tomato production.

, with an analysis of 4-12-0, is a good organic source of phosphorus. When a tomato plant sets fruit, start a systematic fertilization program and feed every three weeks until frost.

I was just funning ya bud. I don't take this gardening thing as seriously as a lot of guys around here but from what I've read your break down is spot on, and like others have said "a soils test is required to know what the right balance of the three ingredients is".. That just seems like over kill for a half dozen Tomato and Rose plants.
The equally balanced stuff that I started using due to the recommendations here and at the local co-op may not be very scientific but it's as simple as I am and all of my plants have definitely perked up and greened up since I started using it so I'm happy.....

I know you were. That's what I get for trying to be helpful instead of snarky!

I'm glad you made out well. Yes people want to push it pretty heavy. Here we suggest a ton per acre until it hits the proper pH. Along with ph, a soil sample will tell you what your soil is lacking. N.P. K. But for what you are planting, I wax hoping to keep you under $60. You should be fine. Next year just do the same. Lime a little and ask a farm store what local soil is lacking. The guy who remarked on my comment has more college

Lime is only a neutralizer if the soil is already below 7 on the ph scale. It won't neutralize a basic soil. Lowering the ph of a high ph soil is usually pretty tough because of the lime already there. High ph soils benefit most with inputs of organic matter and proper watering.

Taking a soil test is as complicated as putting some dirt in a ziplock and sending it to a lab. I use ward labs. It costs about $15

Soil tests will tell more than just ph.

What native plants are growing there? Is it forested or sagebrush or greasewood?

LOL....yea...sometimes we forget we're at the 'Fire....

Ive always used 10-10-10 and chicken $hit in the garden and 19-19-19 for grass and hay I will tell you a secret for the tomatoes get some powdered milk and mix it strong and spray the whole plant when they start to bloom you will see a big difference.

Gonna try that....mine are just starting to bloom....thanks....

My 90 yr old aunt told me about it and I been doing it for the last two years we've had really wet springs and summers and it keeps the blight and disease away.