Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Custom Rifles & Wildcats What dies do i need for converting 7mm SAUM to 6.5 saum?

Interesting Butch. In any of those situations were the necks being lengthened by sharpening the shoulder angle and pushing it back?

A 7 Saum s die with the right bushing would likely size the whole neck, as the neck/shoulder junction should be higher on the case body-have never seen a donut where this junction was raised, as it's further from the thicker shoulder brass. Either way, a donut cutting pilot on an K&M, or similar adds no time to the neck turning process. For a seater, I'd always suggest sending your gunsmith a Wilson seater and having him cut it with the same chambering reamer. Cheap, and ultimately the most accurate. You'd be into it about 130-150 bucks, depending on the bushing and gunsmith

There's also a GAP 6.5 4S group on Facebook if you're on FB. Several small batches of Hornady brass posted on there.
Sendero Man also had/has some for sale (I think).

Good luck!

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth...ornady_6.5_SAUM_Brass_-_New_&#UNREAD

Buy this and quit worrying about brass prep. Trust me, it'll be worth it. Brass prep is why I got rid of my 6.5 SAUM.

I settled on the widden bushing die set. Man, these are making straight ammo. All of my 130 berger hybrid loads are measuring less than .002 bullet runnout! Most are .001 or less. Didnt want to spend the coin on the widden's but now i am glad i did. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Oh, and by the way, the rings fit fine in my forster coax press, which was a concern i had. Just fyi

What bushing and brass are you using?

Hornady 6.5 gap saum brass. These make really straight ammo. I ordered 4 bushings, .289, .290, .291 .304 (for sizing down 7mm brass in stages). I resized some 7mm saum and it made the necks .005-.009 runnout. Hopefully the 7mm brass will fireform straight..turned the necks to .015".

I am using the .291 bushing for loading.

How are you liking the cartridge?

It' a bit of a pain to deal with the limitations in brass, but i am liking it so far. My barrel is still new and i hope it increases in velocity with time. So far my 24" barrel is topping out at 3150-3200 with the 130 bergers. I am hoping to get 3100 in the 140's, but i think that may be pushing the pressures a little too much in the 24" barrel.

Only fired about 20 rounds so far, just to see where my loads top out in the 130 berger hybrids..

Are you finding limitations with the Model Seven action and the seating depth of the Bergers? I had thought about building a 7 SAUM on a long action for the 180 Bergers. I'm shooting 160 grain Accubonds in my stock Model Seven, so seating depth isn't an issue.

If i seat them long, it definately is a limitation to one shot at a time. I have seated the 130 hybrid's to magazine length as they are not supposed to be so sensative to seating depth. Havent shot for accuracy yet though.
The only limitation for the model seven that i have noticed is the short rear receiver top surface and two close holes for scope mounts. Still haven't decided whether to go with a picatinny rail or DNZ mounts.
Right now i am just using a standard leupold base with the dovetail in front and the windage pinch screws in the back. But i noticed the base didn't touch the rear bridge very much without the screw bending it down a bit. I am thinking this may put stress on the action and affect accuracy???

It could put the scope rings out of line, which will then stress the scope and affect accuracy. If the top of the receiver is out of spec you'll need to take steps to account for that.

Thanks for the advice. I am gonna order a DNZ and a picatinny rail and see which i like better. If shooting only to 600 yards, do i need a 20 moa rail?