Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Tips for getting a tight blank out???

I've got a real nice 57 99F that came with dovetail blank and a scope. I took the scope off and want to re-install the rear sight. This one is going to stay in the safe (have another for the stand).

I removed the forearm and have tried my darnest to get the blank out. I tried hitting hammer on a pine dowel and also using a chunk of birch I carved out. I tried soaking overnight with Kroil (no rust present ... just trying to get something that penetrates in there). It has not budged a millimeter.

Any tips on what I should try? This blank is really stubborn. The last thing I want to do is mess up the bluing.

I use a short brass drift, or piece of 1/4" brass rod. I suspect the wood is absorbing a lot of your impact, and not transferring it to the filler.

I've always used a brass drift also,Left to right to remove,barrel pointing away.r-l to replace.

Wood is too soft. Brass punch. Make sure your strikes are very controlled. When you hit it center, you will know. I put mine in a padded vice.

If really stubborn, add Kroil and let it sit overnight. Try again.

Bigger hammer!

Left to right is important mate, you could also cut across the blank with a hack saw almost the barrel that's ALMOST
That should should ease the tension.

Johno

I bought a set of brass punches from Harbor Freight years back. When I opened them up my first reaction was that they were too big - I was wrong. I use one with a 12 oz. ball peen. Remove the forearm and put the barrel in a padded vice. I tape the barrel around the dovetail with packing tape to protect it. Skip this step and you will regret it. Get a good grip on the punch and hit it hard. Pecking away at it leads to damage.

It gets easier when you've done a few.

Lots of good advice here Keith... I cant add much to what's been said here.

I have applied a very small amount of "anti-seize" compound to the underside of parts like this, sights, threads,etc...

I worked in industrial maintenance for about 23 years before I moved to the maintenance job I have now, and applying that small bit of anti-seize compound sure made all the difference in the world when it came to tearing something down later...

I use it at home on things such as muffler/tailpipe slip joints, bolts and hangers, spark plug threads, etc...anywhere you foresee rust/heat,etc...

my .02,
dave

Got it removed! Thanks for the tips/advice. I did not have a brass punch, so I went out to the bolt box and found a brass toilet base screw about 4" long. Ground off the sharp threads and flattened the tip a bit. Taped the barrel around the dovetail and the end of the blank ... just one good tap and it started to move. (I already had the forearm off). The rifle is a 1957 99F .308 that came with a large, bulky Weatherby 3x9 on it. I like it better now.

lookin' good!

This is a last resort, but I'll admit to resorting to it on one occasion.