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Originally Posted by 4ager
Originally Posted by Valsdad
Originally Posted by hookeye




Like others have said, aim small, miss small.

Ping pong balls at 20 yards......we put a superball from gum type vending machine on a wood screw and strung it up in front of the 20 yard indoor bales and shot it on the swing. You'd be surprised how often it was scared silly, and how many times it got nailed.

Those postage stamp sized florescent stickers for pricing? Yeah, one of those on a sheet of cardboard on your bag target, or on your foam deer.

Hard to see what's going on sometimes. Not everybody has same visual acuity.

Paper tune is your friend.



Good ideas all, for small targets.

Another I like to use........

White wooden golf tees. Hardly bigger around then an arrow shaft. They stick well in straw bales, foam targets, etc. I found a big bag of them at a dollar store or similar. If one gets nailed, I'm not out much.

Thanks for all the hints folks,

Geno


Yep, and as you get better busted nocks work well, too. wink


Well, now that I'm off the boat every so often and have a chance to practice......................




I better get to bustin' nocks! shocked

Geno





The desert is a true treasure for him who seeks refuge from men and the evil of men.
In it is contentment
In it is death and all you seek
(Quoted from "The Bleeding of the Stone" Ibrahim Al-Koni)

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I use a single pin on my Dorado...it helps with accuracy, quite considerably so, so I can't see a problem with it

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Rost, I'm gonna hand hard with the program and see if I can mash out enough confidence to hunt with it this year.


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Originally Posted by hookeye
Maxima 350 is .377 spine.

Dunno what a 31" draw and not cut past center 60# bow would need (most longbows have quite the wrap around at the shot).









Gotta get it all gathered up and to a bowshop Hook, asap.

Thanks again for the tips and information.


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Originally Posted by DBT
I use a single pin on my Dorado...it helps with accuracy, quite considerably so, so I can't see a problem with it


I may have to go there DBT, we'll see. wink


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Originally Posted by gunner500
Rost, I'm gonna hand hard with the program and see if I can mash out enough confidence to hunt with it this year.
To me, and its jsut me, there is a world of difference in ease of shooting on a stick bow from 60 down to 52-54 pounds.. not sure why.

But in the end, practice every day is the key. Start close, get it going, move out just a bit at a time.

And FWIW stick bows are, to me, built for up close and personal, not 50 yard shots. That helps if you limit your distance.

Best of luck!

Keep us updated would be cool too!

Jeff


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Rost, I have a few appointments up in Ft Smith next week, I'll take my longbow and arrows by the shop to see Big Eric and get his take on my setup, I plan to keep all longbow hunting inside of 20 yards.


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I used to shoot a LOT. 55# seemed to me, to be the weight where I had to work regularly to stay proficient.
15 yrs later I like 50# wink

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I can shoot 60# plus, and well.
But I can get in the groove with less practice, less risk of aggravating injuries......at less #.

Bought a 43# rig recently. Sold it. Too light and too diff in grip from my reg rig.

So I might again have a 60# rig.........dunno.
If it was shorter overall length I'd be all on it.
I like a 58" bow and the one I found is 60".
No longer made.......can't find shorter limbs very easy.

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Hook, my bow is 66" and wouldn't know how to reduce the draw weight at the same anchor point, I like middle finger in the corner of the mouth, seems the most repeatable consistent for me.


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Originally Posted by aalf
Gunner, here's a glove similar to what I use. Super soft, double leather, and no plastic between like the HH. I've never used the HH, as my guy sold this style and that's what I went with, no complaints:

Glove

I switched back to traditional in 1986. My last compound was a Hoyt set at 81 lbs, and I shot split fingers with a tab. Never wanted or ever used a release. Made my transition back to a recurve pretty easy.

I shot split for a while, and then experimented with 3 under, and it felt more natural to me, so I stayed with it. Puts the arrow closer to the eye, however, I never aim down the arrow, or gap shoot, etc. Focus on the spot, draw, shoot, done, to me the epitome of instinctive shooting. I can't, for the life of me, hold at full draw like the compound. The minute my finger touches the corner of my mouth, it's gone.

Originally Posted by gunner500
aalf, Three under in fact to me looks more inline with the true center of the bowstring, if that's the case, would that hold not provide a more equal tensioning of the limbs?

Probably/maybe, but probably not a consideration, it all goes back to tuning the arrow.

I've shot cedar in the past, but shoot strictly aluminum. Easy to tune with. Start with a long bare shaft in the ballpark for spine, cut off in increments, while adjusting nock position, brace height, and point weight. The bow maker should have a starting point for you in brace height. Speed is not a consideration.



BTW aalf, glove should be here this week, got her ordered, Thanks. smile


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Gunner,

Only way to lessen # is to run ILF or change limbs or have limbs lightened by whoever made the bow.

66" is a longbow, or a long recurve wink

If recurve, that much working limb (length), proly have a longer than 28" draw length.

I draw 28.5" and have skinny fingers, so can shoot a shorter bow easily, even 3 under.

If your gap is still large and you're having problems shooting instinctive, even with middle finger at corner of the mouth.......you can lessen the gap by keeping the same anchor but going 3 under.

It feels weird, and higher arm position makes it feel even weirder. But try it, off and on for a few days and see if that helps.

If your arrows are heavy enough you might find the gap small enough to allow you to aim the arrow as a sight.
That;s what happened with my 60# Blackwidow.

Made shooting stilted, odd feeling (compared to yrs of instinctive) but it was stoopid easy and allowed me to shoot my deer at 25 yards like it was nothing.

Still feels funky, but dang if it doesn't work.

Ya just never know. I did well with different system for decades, but injury forced a change.

If your recurve is 66" and you don't have a long draw, you might be able to do a "fixed crawl" to shorten your gap.

It's in that video I posted called "the push". Might be of help, maybe not. Worth checking out IMHO.

Since I don't run ILF and my bows are 60" or less in length.......I'm not messing with a crawl. I'll shoot unconscius gap/instinctive with my old anchor.....or use arrows as a sight and face walk (different anchors).


Last edited by hookeye; 06/18/16.
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For stills and maybe vid of fixed or other crawl, different setups and how well the guys/gals shoot.....

check for IBO trad worlds videos on YT.

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Thanks again Hook, this bow is too nice for a dumbass like me to fool with, I'll have to learn to shoot it as is, and will know the exact draw weight at my length on Wed, then can proceed from there.

Thanks for the hit on the youtube videos, will have wifey bookmark them for me so I can go back and watch em. smile

Edit to add, should have mentioned, my draw length is 31"s with my compound, Bow mechanic buddy set my compound out as far as he could and got the rest for me using the correct release, it works fine for me now even if my compound bow isn't set for an exact 31 inch draw length.

Last edited by gunner500; 06/18/16.

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31 inch draw. Damn thats cheating, you are 4 inches or so closer to the game when you start than I am.

LOL

Gettting there is the fun part!


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Originally Posted by rost495
31 inch draw. Damn thats cheating, you are 4 inches or so closer to the game when you start than I am.

LOL

Gettting there is the fun part!


grin, I'll know much more about which direction I need to go with my gear when I leave the bow shop on Wed, can't wait to get in there and get measured and weighed, then have my arrows looked at for proper spine.


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Okay, here are the numbers on my set-up.

Bow length: 66"s

Draw: 31"s at the front of the arrow shelf.

Draw weight of bow at a measured 31"s while on scale: 59 lbs

Total arrow weight with 140 gr field tip: 560 grs.

Total arrow weight with 160 gr Stos broad head: 580 grs.

Velocity at 15 feet: 196 fps.

Arrows: Carbon Express Traditional 350's, full length.

So here are the numbers, can the experts tell me if I'm spined correctly?

Buddy at bowshop said those arrows flew straighter than straight, I fired five with him off to both sides, behind and in front, he trusts me. shocked

Many Thanks,
Gunner


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flying straight might be seen, but paper tunes tell the real world about straight or not IMHO.


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For a 125 grain head, per Carbon Express, you are in the correct spine.

However, reading on the Easton arrow chart, which covers 145 grain points, it looks like you need to increase the spine a bit.

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rost and AH64 hit it well. Paper tune, and don't be surprised to have to increase the spine with new arrows or decrease the point weight.

Clay Hayes, the guy in the video, is a friend of mine and knows his stuff. He's also not one of the stereotypical "my way only" shooting "experts".

[video:youtube] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-r1IqWjkKw&list=PLmWUoLyD4VWVPNmoNWP4utTbiPJHGLdkN&index=1[/video]

[video:youtube] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=395C-r0knfQ&index=2&list=PLmWUoLyD4VWVPNmoNWP4utTbiPJHGLdkN[/video]



Originally Posted by Mannlicher
America needs to understand that our troops are not 'disposable'. Each represents a family; Fathers, Mothers, Sons, Daughters, Cousins, Uncles, Aunts... Our Citizens are our most valuable treasure; we waste far too many.
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