Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Dyna Bore Coat

Having IT&D barrel a rifle for me with a stainless Douglas. I was considering treating the barrel with DBC prior to firing.
Yes? Why?
No? Why not?

Yes. Prep is easier, and I haven't found a down side yet.

Agree.

I DBC my new premium barrels.

To me there is no "break in", just shoot and clean until shooting requires less cleaning.

I have premium DBC treated barrels that just about don't copper foul, they accumulate some carbon ahead of the chamber which cleans up fairly easy.

You get some early copper fouling, but less after the shoot/clean cycle is repeated a few times.

DF

I have a new take off barrel (Rem 700). Is the DBC worth while on none premium barrels?

Yes

It probably does them more good than the premiums.

But, you gotta do a real good prep job, taking it down to the raw steel. On a used barrel, the Hawkeye really helps determine when you're there. Just having a few clean patches doesn't really tell you a lot.

DF

I may have a slightly different take on this than some who have commented so far.

DBC's greatest virtue is reduction of fouling and easing cleaning; a secondary effect is sealing a chrome-moly bore against moisture. If a bore doesn't foul much in the first place there's no real point in installing DBC, especially if it's stainless.

I've owned a number of Douglas barrels made in past couple of decades and can't recall one that was a "fouler," and certainly none that were a problem to clean with today's solvents. They required very little "break-in" to get to that point, whether the old-fashioned shooting until groups started open up, and then clean, or the modern obsessive-compulsive shoot once and then clean.

I have also never seen DBC improve the accuracy of a barrel--except for some that fouled so quickly groups opened up noticeably after a very few rounds. But it has never improved the accuracy of a barrel that shot well and didn't foul much from the get-go.

I like DBC a lot but don't use it unless it seems needed. However, most rifle loonies are obsessive-compulsives, and for them automatically installing DBC in every barrel is probably the ONLY answer to making sure every finicky detail is as perfect as can be.

DF, I don't have a Hawkeye and I'm cleaning three barrels now. Two 22-250s and a 243 prior to treating with DBC. I've been working on the 22-250s a week. I just started on the 243 today. The 22-250s have never had bore cleaner with ammonia since the original owner bought them (70's). I have found Patchout seems to work on the copper better than Montana Copper Killer when allowed to work over night.

Bugger, FYI a factory takeoff barrel has been fired with a proof load so it will need cleaned before treating with DBC.
YMMV

Dave,

Have you gotten down to "bedrock" yet on those barrels?

They got to be clean, but you need to leave some rifling...

DF

My new take off is a stainless. Bought it from Redhawk.

I suppose a kit is good for a few rifles?

Will do several if you're careful with it.

DF

Yep...

You got it...

DF

Does Dyna Bore coat work on titanium and aluminum? Cleaning 22 rimfire suppressors can be a chore. I've "lubed" them to keep fouling soft - a lot like black powder bores - but this works for limited shots. Something that prevents adherance of the combustion products to the metal (especially Al) ..... just thinking .

might even help a douglas come closer to being a premium barrel

+1

John, I thought I was getting there but yesterday when I punched the bores with alcohol I got more blue patches. I'm letting them soak over night and have been. I used Patchout the day before instead of Copper Killer. The Patchout is getting more copper out. Just some light blue now on the patches. I'll keep doing it until I get two soaks without any sign of copper. Thanks for your help.
Dave

Lol, he shoots....he scores!

As I understand the material, it requires pressure/ friction to cure. It is a ceramic powder in a suspension, you apply it, allow it to dry, fire the recommended 5-10 bullets, and clean. The initial cleaning makes one think they screwed up as it seems more fouled than before the application, but upon further firings and cleanings, if done correctly, cleans up easy. The first after-curing shots show like a black powder barrel! So I suspect DBC will do nothing unless your projectiles contact and create friction on your suppressors....lol

And yes, one bottle will do half a dozen, or more, if you aren't sloppy. I place a ziplock bag over the mop between the 3 applications, so the mop doesn't dry out and retains the wet solution.

And I am a loon by John's definition above, but my cooper 20VT is my only good quality barrel, besides the CZ's barrels.

Thanks for the info on how it works - my quest for easier cleaning continues .

You could coat the suppressor in DGS instead of DBC, which also leaves a slick surface.

A sister product, Dyna Tek Gun Shield, works great, too.

I have a bead blasted SS barrel that seemed to show every smudge, etc. until I did the three coating treatment with Gun Shield. It's now feels super slick and isn't affected by much.

I'm wondering if treating a rifle bolt with Gun Shield would make the action feel slicker. Anyone tried that?

DF

Yeah, it does make a difference. Some bolts get slicker than others after treatment.

Ha! I had a similar situation with my Model 70 270 WSM. It was a fouling bitch until I did a DBC job on it, and it took me 2 days to get down to "bedrock". I didn't do any long soaks, maybe I should have.

Anyway, it was worth the elbow grease. That rifle was always a tack-driver, but now it does it for longer. Much longer.

I polish my rifle bolts with Wheeler grinding compound (or something similar) or at least have on some of my favorites. I also lap the lugs. I'm pretty sure I have not polished the lugs enough that a no-go would chamber. I have done this at the same time until the lugs look like they are sharing the thrust.
This DBC 'sounds anyhow' like it would shorten the work on smoothing the bolt "action". Obviously though would not help on the lug lapping.

Yes the manufacturer I'm most familiar with shot every rifle first with testing with a high pressure 'proof' round and then tested them for grouping ability. If either failed they were scrapped. Although I never saw one actually scrapped due to failure to handle the high pressure "proof" load.

It's gotta be CLEAN...

DF