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hatari Offline OP
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How do you test your new scope?

When you get a new scope, do you mount it up, zero in and shoot for groups?

Do you shot a box to test the accuracy of adjustments?

If you buy a brand you've never owned, do you torture test it from freezer to boiling water?

I fall in the category of adjusting the focus, parallax, zero, and shoot for groups.


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Well, my scope buying has all been oriented towards long range hunting/shooting lately. So tracking, repeatability, and RTZ are the primary concerns.

So, I've been shooting lots and lots of simple tall target tests, probably better described as medium target tests since I have only been testing the first 20 MOA or so of erector travel. I will warn you, these sorts of tests are one MUTHA of a can of worms. Once opened, you might find yourself spending a whole lot of money. smile


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I mount with Hi Vel's Reticle-Tru, focus, run box test, zero 2" high at 100 while at same time shoot for groups, when promising load is found I move to 200 and shoot groups, then 300 yds and shoot for groups again. I pay particular attention to where the first, cold bore shot lands.


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I bought a Swarovski Z-3 4-12 with turrets here on the Campfire and put it on a Sako 6mm PPC single shot rifle. Then Rancho and I headed to the gopher fields to sight it in.

I shot at little white rocks while he spotted me and zeroed for 100, 200 and 300 yard rocks. I then started shooting gophers and the following weekend took it on the prairie dog invitational and shot prairie dogs all weekend, out to 400 yards with it.

I used the same ammo I had already loaded for both PPC rifles I have, and shot quite lethally all weekend without ever shooting a piece of paper. I guess you could say I got good equipment and went shooting, or I got lucky.

Doesn't really matter, I have a bunch more guns I have done the same with and never worried about paper...

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In most cases, I shoot them at 50 yards to get them on the paper, then I zero them at 100 yards, usually 3" high at 100, then I shoot them from 200 thru 500 in 100 yard increments so that I know what the bullet drop looks like.

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hatari,

Quote
How do you test your new scope?


First I turn the focus to infinity and the power to max and clear up the reticle as good as I can get it for my eye. Then I lay a new scope, along with another or two, on some sand bags and check to see how good the optics are on the military chart. Then I wait till sunset and check for low light performance on deer antlers.

If they don't cut it in either of those, they are down the road.


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Originally Posted by shrapnel

I bought a Swarovski Z-3 4-12 with turrets here on the Campfire and put it on a Sako 6mm PPC single shot rifle. Then Rancho and I headed to the gopher fields to sight it in.

I shot at little white rocks while he spotted me and zeroed for 100, 200 and 300 yard rocks. I then started shooting gophers and the following weekend took it on the prairie dog invitational and shot prairie dogs all weekend, out to 400 yards with it.

I used the same ammo I had already loaded for both PPC rifles I have, and shot quite lethally all weekend without ever shooting a piece of paper. I guess you could say I got good equipment and went shooting, or I got lucky.

Doesn't really matter, I have a bunch more guns I have done the same with and never worried about paper...

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Hatari: I put a certain amount of "trust" in the scopes I buy, and their manufacturers.
I have MANY brands of scopes but for Big Game Hunting applications (foul weather, recoil, hard usage, utmost in reliability) I stick with Leupold scopes.
I own several dozen of these currently and owned dozens more in the past and have yet to have one fail ME!
I take great care in mounting my scopes starting with precisely aligning the rings and then carefully "lapping them in".
For Varmint Hunting applications I do diversify brands a bit more often using Nikon or Weaver as well as Leupolds.
I only buy scopes with adjustable parallax anymore.
I am not a turret twister so I do not do "box tests".
Holding point of aim is indeed priority one for me and that is not hard to ascertain and remedy (more often it is the Rifle/bedding that causes these type problems).
Testing scopes/Rifles/loads/sight-in verification is only done (by me!) on dead calm days anymore - decades ago I learned that shooting for group/load testing/sight-in on "moving air condition" days is self defeating and a waste of time/money.
I do NOT torture any of my optics, in fact I am obsessive about treating them with the utmost and never ending care!
Trust Leupold is my main message to share here, I guess.
This policy has worked very well for me for more than half a century now.
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After mounting a new scope, but before taking the rifle and scope to the range I use a collimator to test the adjustments and, if a variable, to see if the reticle wanders when changing magnification. If either occurs, it's not worth the time and ammo to do a range test.

If it's going on a big game rifle generating recoil energy of more than 10 foot-pounds, even a lightweight .243 Winchester or .257 Roberts, I usually first mount it on a harder-kicking rifle, most often a .300 magnum of some sort, and shoot a couple boxes of ammo. If there's anything wrong with the scope right from the factory (which happens more often than many hunters realize) then it will usually show up within 20-40 rounds on a .300--rather than after somewhat more shooting on a .243 or .257. I'd rather be disappointed at the range than out in the field.

I check EVERY scope during EVERY range session for parallax, and take appropriate measures if any shows up. Most shooters aren't aware that parallax and focus can change slightly due to atmospheric conditions.

I don't do "box" tests anymore. If the scope's meant to be dialed up and down, then I run a "tall target" test with the elevation turret. If it's meant to be sighted-in and left there, then I just adjust the scope during the first range session. If the adjustments move POI to the right place, then I'm happy. If they don't I'm not.

I don't do the freeze/dunk test much anymore, because it's been a long time since I found any leaks on a new scope.


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Mostly I mount it, zero it if it's a set and forget scope, and shoot it at 100- 600 yards,watching it for changes in POI or other issues as I continue to shoot.

This is done over a period of weeks or months. It's rare that a new untested scope goes hunting.

I figure it's getting tested as I shoot.

Last year, it took me one afternoon to figure out that lousy 300 yard groups were happening because a brand new 6X42 was somehow wonky.

Just to be fair I mounted it on another equally accurate rifle with similar results. Last one of those for me.

Last edited by BobinNH; 06/29/16.



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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
After mounting a new scope, but before taking the rifle and scope to the range I use a collimator to test the adjustments and, if a variable, to see if the reticle wanders when changing magnification. If either occurs, it's not worth the time and ammo to do a range test.

If it's going on a big game rifle generating recoil energy of more than 10 foot-pounds, even a lightweight .243 Winchester or .257 Roberts, I usually first mount it on a harder-kicking rifle, most often a .300 magnum of some sort, and shoot a couple boxes of ammo. If there's anything wrong with the scope right from the factory (which happens more often than many hunters realize) then it will usually show up within 20-40 rounds on a .300--rather than after somewhat more shooting on a .243 or .257. I'd rather be disappointed at the range than out in the field.

I check EVERY scope during EVERY range session for parallax, and take appropriate measures if any shows up. Most shooters aren't aware that parallax and focus can change slightly due to atmospheric conditions.

I don't do "box" tests anymore. If the scope's meant to be dialed up and down, then I run a "tall target" test with the elevation turret. If it's meant to be sighted-in and left there, then I just adjust the scope during the first range session. If the adjustments move POI to the right place, then I'm happy. If they don't I'm not.

I don't do the freeze/dunk test much anymore, because it's been a long time since I found any leaks on a new scope.



This is basically what I do except all the stuff mentioned after the part where it says "After I mount the scope"


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1) Mount scope.
2) Find load.
3) Zero.
4) Shoot and calculate/verify dope.
5) Shoot more and put rifle in duty rotation with other rifles as it's ready to roll.

If there is a problem with the scope, mounts, or rifle, it will usually show up in one of these steps.

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If I mount it in the rings myself, I make sure I don't over tighten the rings. I like MD's suggestion to use just my thumb and the first two fingers. As I shoot, I watch for scope slipage. If it occurs, which has only happend once with an old scope, I put some electrical tape on the inside of the scope rings.
I check the scope's image from standing, sitting, and, sometimes, from prone. I make sure the scope won't give me a scar if I take a steep uphill shot. It's not unusal for me to change the scopes fore and aft position a few times before I'm satisfied with it. I've found this very important if I need to shoot in a hurry. Particularly if the scope has a short eye relief, and/or little eye box.
I put at least 60 rds. on it before taking it hunting. A hundred or more is better.
Eventually I will check how well it works under low light and night time conditions.
I check parallax, especially if I'm shooting at the longer ranges like 300 yds. vs. 100 yds.
Last of all, I always test fire any rifle that has taken a hard knock for zero.
I'm very happy with my Leupolds. Never had one change zero due to a hard knock/fall, etc. Never had one break from recoil.
But I have busted a couple of reticles on some very old scopes. E

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The first thing you do is use a bore sight.

I have not seen that mentioned yet.

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I always bore sight my rifles. But I've never used a bore sight.



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