Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Tikka T3 loading and ejection problem

I took a new T3 Stainless in .270 Win to the range the other day and had a problem right out of the gate. The bolt pushed the round out of the mag just fine, but it was very difficult to push the bolt down into battery. I fired it, but getting the bolt to lift and eject was really difficult. I looked at the fired cartridge, and I could readily see where the ejector had really scraped the face of the cartridge. It got a little easier, but it is not working like a bolt action should. I used three different types of ammo and it did the same with either kind. I think it will eventually get some better. I could see where the back of the locking lugs had really scraped steel on steel. I stoned a little on the rear of the lugs, and it improved some. I don't want to take more off of the lugs if I can help it. Any advice from you Tikka guys? Anyone have the same problem?

Thanks,
G2

Check your scope base screws. Long ones will go through the receiver enough to monkey with the bolt.

Yeah, don't stone your lugs, lest you change the headspace.

A little lube, I use moly truck bearing grease, can help. I've read that you shouldn't even use lube for fear of affecting the headspace, but others say differently, and it's never caused me any trouble.

Is your ammo factory or reloads? Sometimes, even with FL sizing, brass from one rifle won't chamber in another. If the bolt works easily with no cartridge, then maybe you have a very tight chamber or other problem. If you send it back, don't mention that you stoned anything, or you may end up paying to fix it.

Also, check to be sure the ejector plunger moves. Those marks on the cases aren't good. On some rifles, a long action screw can bind the bolt as well. Don't know about Ticklers.

I'd bet good money this is your issue. Don't ask me how I know.

We learned it the hard way at 16 Bore Manufacturing!

Assuming that you are using the factory Tikka rings my first guess is that you are shooting reloads that are not properly sized for your chamber especially since the factory Tikka rings are a dovetail fit, not a screw to the receiver fit.

Also if you are showing metal galling on the rear of the lugs that would not be caused by a too long screw in the action ring, it sounds much more like an oversized case.

If you are using reloads try a factory loaded round to see if it has trouble chambering, if not then you have found your solution.

drover

Sounds like a headspace issue on the brass. If it was factory rounds, you might have a short chamber, but that shouldn't be too likely.

Stoning the lugs would be an absolute last resort. If it is handloads you can get a body die to set the headspace correctly on the loaded rounds without having to pull them and start from scratch.

I have seen some factory new ammo that were hard to close the bolt on. I thought it strange but I don't shoot much factory ammo.

Used Talley LW extra low ring mounts, and you guys were right. The very front mount screw is too long. I had reversed the front mount as to get a little more room for scope placement. I hope I have not created another problem, as in getting that screw loosened without breaking it. I think I will place the gun upside down, and put some WD on the end of the screw that protrudes, and let it soak for a day or two then try to get it out, hopefully without breaking the screw off. Thanks to all who provided information. You would think that an old dog like me would have caught that right off, but contrary to "you can't teach an old dog new tricks", with the help you guys provided this old dog has learned a new trick.

Thanks to all,

G2

Gramps,

Glad you found the culprit. I figured (as 16bore did) that front screw would prove to be the problem. I made the same mistake on my first Tikka/Talley combo, but was lucky enough to spot the issue quickly.

The direction of the mount won't make a difference, but the extra screw length can make a mess.

I reckon the groups might tighten up a little too!

That's why I don't reinvent the wheel, and use Warne Tikka mounts without even touching the action screw holes.

I think we reinvented about 200+ sets of wheels. Fun while it lasted!

Your dad quit 4 sets short.

Dammit.




P

Yeah 16 bore We got shorted...LOL...Thatll teach ya ta be nice!!! ScottyO...GRIN...

Just to clarify, that "too long" front screw belongs in the rear. Look at the thickness difference in that portion of the action to understand why. Putting the shorter front screw in the rear will engage the threads, but not very deeply. Just switch the screws around and you will be fine, if the front one comes out.