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308cal Offline OP
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The reason I ask, is because I've thought about selling my action and going full custom, but even after I have it blueprinted, I still won't have that much in it.

I crunched the numbers today, and with the investment I have in the action now, including the PTG one piece bolt, and the cost to have it blueprinted, I will still have under $500 in it.

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By all means use it then. If the work is done properly you will have a great action. You could even spring for a side bolt release and still be ahead.


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If it's been that cheap for you, keep it!!


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I have taken delivery on two full custom Remington clones despite having several Rem 700's in the safe. I felt it was better money spent to go with custom that was built right from the start.

I am glad I did it. Whether you choose a full custom action or tightening up your own, you'll have a predictable quality shooting iron. Predictability is an invaluable asset.


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I have a blueprinted 700 that shoots really well.

It can't touch my Stiller though.

But for a hunting/play rifle you don't even need a blueprinted action. For competition no hunting action, blueprinted or no, will be able to compete as well a custom.

There might be some advantage to a one-piece bolt if you are worried about the bolt handle falling off. Not a worry to me, but I do also have a one-piece PTG bolt. It's pretty nice, not sure I'd pay the money for another one.

If I were on a budget for a hunting rifle I'd get a 70/700/Montana or whatever and get a barrel for it. The smith will probably face the action, pretty standard. If I had no budget I would get a Borden Timberline as a starting point.

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I am a convert to custom actions. I also move in and out of rifles on occasion. A "blueprinted" 700 to me does not really have greater trade value than a stock 700 action. Blueprinted means something different to everyone. If I was not ever planning to sell the rifle, a 700 action can work just fine. A great trigger probably is more important to accuracy than a custom action over a worked over 700.

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I've been thinking more about what bench shooting improvements can be actually observed in the field with a rifle in a "standard" hunting configuration.

Late yesterday I was shooting a factory 700 in 308 that I've had over ten years now. It's an LVSF barreled action in a McMillan 700 Classic stock. The one action modification is I had the bolt lugs lightly lapped to even up their contact a bit. The factory barrel has seen over 3000 firings.

The load I was shooting used thrown charges of long stick IMR4064, straight from the measure into the cases. I mounted/zeroed a Vari-X III 3.5-10x40, and used it set to 6x.

Despite the failing light of the day, with a heavy brush and tree line reducing the remaining light coming from the west, I was able to shoot 3/4 to 7/8 MOA five shot groups at 300 yards.

So for the purposes of this rifle I probably won't even worry about blueprinting when I finally do need to replace the barrel.

I could see going full custom on a hunting rifle for resale value, satisfaction of ownership and the like. I could also see it for a very precise target/varmint type rifle.

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This will be a hunting rifle, and I am sentimental to rifles, so I will most likely never sale it. I am not necessarily building it on a budget, I have just wheeled and dealed my way into some inexpensive components for it. I will get it blueprinted, because someone pointed out to me that although the older 700s like this one have better quality metal, they are not as straight as some of the newer rifles. I got the bolt, not for fear of losing the handle, but because I could buy a larger bolt body, to tighten up the tolerances and get rid of some of the slop like the old bolt had. It has taken a while to put all the parts together, but I have not been in a hurry, and as I said before, I have wheeled and dealed. As of right now my total investment before any gunsmithing, in the 700 action, Jewell trigger, McMillan stock, and VX-6 3-18x44 is a whopping $14.40.

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Well since you're into it at the right price that definitely offsets the blueprinting cost. In these circumstances why not?

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For sure, use the 700. It will shoot well. Sounds like you just need a barrel and a gunsmith.

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here's your answer

I have never said I wished I would have gone with a remington action after building one on a custom action.

I have had Remington actions with custom barrels that easily shot half MOA at 100 yards.

With what you have in your current action and bolt if you sold them what would you have in custom action....

and there you have it...

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Originally Posted by joelkdouglas
For sure, use the 700. It will shoot well. Sounds like you just need a barrel and a gunsmith.


I actually have everything, I just need to go talk to the gunsmith. Saving the funds to him right now. grin

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Before you have your receiver squared, do you know what needs to be done to bring it to a customs spec. Too bad that you already have the bolt before the machine work. If the receiver is machined properly your bolt timing will now be off and To machine it properly you start with reaming the raceways. Now your bolt is loose in the receiver. When you cock it the rear of the bolt will rise keeping the upper bolt lug from being in contact with the lug abutment.
Even a varmint rifle will not really be helped doing this, but do it if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy.
I would recommend barrel, trigger,bedding, and proper load workup.

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Check my post on 6X47L thread below.

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308cal Offline OP
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Originally Posted by butchlambert1
Before you have your receiver squared, do you know what needs to be done to bring it to a customs spec. Too bad that you already have the bolt before the machine work. If the receiver is machined properly your bolt timing will now be off and To machine it properly you start with reaming the raceways. Now your bolt is loose in the receiver. When you cock it the rear of the bolt will rise keeping the upper bolt lug from being in contact with the lug abutment.
Even a varmint rifle will not really be helped doing this, but do it if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy.
I would recommend barrel, trigger,bedding, and proper load workup.


Which is precisely why I talked to the smith before I ever ordered the bolt. He had me take measurements between the raceways, and measure the width of the original bolt. Then he told me what OD bolt to get so everything would be nice and tight once he does the machining work.

Last edited by 308cal; 07/22/16.
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Good luck.

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Like I said, custom is your huckleberry.


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I have a lathe and mill and Rem700 rifles from the pawn shop waiting for me to rebarrel and re stock them.
But I have no intention to true the actions. Looks like fun, but no thanks. I have enough stuff without buying tooling I don't need.
I am a hunter. You name a cartridge, without a trued action, I could build a Rem700 rifle that would average 1/2" five shots 100 yards.. but it would be heavy and need to be tested on a low wind day.
Truing the action is a comparative waste of time for a hunter, compared to spending the time shooting long range targets.

If you are competition target shooter, and willing to do anything to squeeze out 1% more performance, that is different.


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Clarkm,
I agree that action truing is not always necessary, especially for a hunting rifle. But what Larry is doing is not the type of action truing I would ever pay for. A skilled machinist gunsmith with a good lathe, an action truing fixture and a four jaw chuck is what I would look at for a real action truing.


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