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Gunner-

My vote is ---- Don't do it.


Gun Shows are almost as comical as boat ramps in the Spring.
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Okay, Thanks, I was trying to relieve my 10mm problem by going 45 Super with my LB, guess I still have a 10mm problem. cry


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Originally Posted by Gibby
I was talking about the mainspring. He is just starting. Many tend to go heavier. 24 lbs. or more. I think that is a big mistake myself.


I disagree, at least for heavy loads like 10mm and 45 Super. A heavier mainspring is the best way to delay slide unlocking without putting all that energy back into the return stroke, as a heavy recoil spring does. In my experience, (still talking about heavy loads) a 1911 set up with a heavy mainspring and mild recoil spring shoots smoother and stays tight longer than one with a standard mainspring and heavy recoil spring.

Flat bottom firing pin stops are a given, of course.
Install a better hammer if it's a problem; that's a lot easier to fix than battered lugs from lots of rounds with a heavy recoil spring.

If your experience is mostly with standard power 45 ACP, then your comment makes sense and I'd agree, but the Super and 10mm need a different approach.

Last edited by Yondering; 07/27/16.
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Originally Posted by Yondering
Originally Posted by Gibby
I was talking about the mainspring. He is just starting. Many tend to go heavier. 24 lbs. or more. I think that is a big mistake myself.


I disagree, at least for heavy loads like 10mm and 45 Super. A heavier mainspring is the best way to delay slide unlocking without putting all that energy back into the return stroke, as a heavy recoil spring does. In my experience, (still talking about heavy loads) a 1911 set up with a heavy mainspring and mild recoil spring shoots smoother and stays tight longer than one with a standard mainspring and heavy recoil spring.

Flat bottom firing pin stops are a given, of course.
Install a better hammer if it's a problem; that's a lot easier to fix than battered lugs from lots of rounds with a heavy recoil spring.

If your experience is mostly with standard power 45 ACP, then your comment makes sense and I'd agree, but the Super and 10mm need a different approach.



I think we are saying the same thing. At least I was trying to.





I shy away from heavy recoil springs.

My Delta is set up with SBFPS and 22lb mainspring using 22lb. recoil spring (stock is 23 lb.). It kicks the cases out about 4 feet.

My .460 Rowland Gold Cup caries a 20lb recoil spring. Same result. That is what a well designed ported match barrel fitted properly will do.

Additional bonus. Controlled rapid fire is a breeze.

That is why I do not like the Super. The setup is hard on the guns. There are better ways to get magnum power out of a 1911 if you want it.


Gun Shows are almost as comical as boat ramps in the Spring.
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Gotcha, I thought you were saying a heavier mainspring is a mistake.

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So I should get a heavier mainspring and go lighter on the recoil spring? (Factory mainspring now installed) I ordered the Wilson flat wires 22 pound recoil spring .

What poundage for the mainspring?


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Originally Posted by Fotis
So I should get a heavier mainspring and go lighter on the recoil spring? (Factory mainspring now installed) I ordered the Wilson flat wires 22 pound recoil spring .

What poundage for the mainspring?



The Wilson flat wire is the best recoil spring on the market in my opinion.. It does load up it is a constant 22 pounds



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Originally Posted by Yondering


I disagree, at least for heavy loads like 10mm and 45 Super. A heavier mainspring is the best way to delay slide unlocking without putting all that energy back into the return stroke, as a heavy recoil spring does. In my experience, (still talking about heavy loads) a 1911 set up with a heavy mainspring and mild recoil spring shoots smoother and stays tight longer than one with a standard mainspring and heavy recoil spring.

Flat bottom firing pin stops are a given, of course.
Install a better hammer if it's a problem; that's a lot easier to fix than battered lugs from lots of rounds with a heavy recoil spring.

If your experience is mostly with standard power 45 ACP, then your comment makes sense and I'd agree, but the Super and 10mm need a different approach.


While you are right about the effect of a heavier mainspring in what you've said, what trigger pulls are you getting with those 25 lb mainsprings?

Stock sear spring & hammer hook depth too?

MM

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Originally Posted by MontanaMan
Originally Posted by Yondering


I disagree, at least for heavy loads like 10mm and 45 Super. A heavier mainspring is the best way to delay slide unlocking without putting all that energy back into the return stroke, as a heavy recoil spring does. In my experience, (still talking about heavy loads) a 1911 set up with a heavy mainspring and mild recoil spring shoots smoother and stays tight longer than one with a standard mainspring and heavy recoil spring.

Flat bottom firing pin stops are a given, of course.
Install a better hammer if it's a problem; that's a lot easier to fix than battered lugs from lots of rounds with a heavy recoil spring.

If your experience is mostly with standard power 45 ACP, then your comment makes sense and I'd agree, but the Super and 10mm need a different approach.


While you are right about the effect of a heavier mainspring in what you've said, what trigger pulls are you getting with those 25 lb mainsprings?

Stock sear spring & hammer hook depth too?

MM


Are you asking, or wanting to argue? I'm honestly not sure from your post.

Trigger pull weight is a little heavier with heavier mainsprings of course, but not unreasonable. It goes with the territory if you want to build a 1911 for heavy loads.

None of my 1911 triggers remain stock for long, but the heavy mainspring setups do keep more engagement than lightweight target guns.

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Originally Posted by MontanaMan
Originally Posted by Fotis


Interesting article.

Somewhat surprising that all his standard 45 & +P loads functioned flawlessly with a 28 lb. recoil spring.

MM


I followed the same advice from that article. My Sig runs ACP & Super loads perfectly with the 28 lb spring. Since my 45 Super is reserved for hunting only, the 28# spring if of no concern. Were I to do more common duty with it I would reduce the Super loads a bit & roll with a lighter spring.


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Originally Posted by Reloder28
Originally Posted by MontanaMan
Originally Posted by Fotis


Interesting article.

Somewhat surprising that all his standard 45 & +P loads functioned flawlessly with a 28 lb. recoil spring.

MM


I followed the same advice from that article. My Sig runs ACP & Super loads perfectly with the 28 lb spring.


I'd wager that if your 1911 runs 45 ACP with a 28 pound recoil spring then the locking lugs are poorly fit and unlocking prematurely




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Originally Posted by Yondering
Originally Posted by MontanaMan
Originally Posted by Yondering


I disagree, at least for heavy loads like 10mm and 45 Super. A heavier mainspring is the best way to delay slide unlocking without putting all that energy back into the return stroke, as a heavy recoil spring does. In my experience, (still talking about heavy loads) a 1911 set up with a heavy mainspring and mild recoil spring shoots smoother and stays tight longer than one with a standard mainspring and heavy recoil spring.

Flat bottom firing pin stops are a given, of course.
Install a better hammer if it's a problem; that's a lot easier to fix than battered lugs from lots of rounds with a heavy recoil spring.

If your experience is mostly with standard power 45 ACP, then your comment makes sense and I'd agree, but the Super and 10mm need a different approach.


While you are right about the effect of a heavier mainspring in what you've said, what trigger pulls are you getting with those 25 lb mainsprings?

Stock sear spring & hammer hook depth too?

MM


Are you asking, or wanting to argue? I'm honestly not sure from your post.

Trigger pull weight is a little heavier with heavier mainsprings of course, but not unreasonable. It goes with the territory if you want to build a 1911 for heavy loads.

None of my 1911 triggers remain stock for long, but the heavy mainspring setups do keep more engagement than lightweight target guns.


Just asking. I've never put a 25 lb mainspring in a 1911; and unless I leave them at the stock 23 lb., in ACP's, 38 Supers or 9's, I'm usually going the other direction.

Heavy mainsprings make sense in some setups........just wondering what the trigger pull penalty was on yours & how you set up the hammer hooks & the sear spring.

A lot of good info in this thread.

MM


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Keep in mind the difference between a 23lb and 25lb mainspring is only 8.5% - and trigger pull weight changes by about the same amount. A 3 lb trigger might end up at 3.25-3.5 lb for example; there's a difference but it's not a big deal.

Re. the sear spring - just my opinion, but I think you need a heavier sear spring more with higher slide velocity. The whole point of increasing the mainspring is to reduce slide velocity. The stock sear spring weight is probably adequate, but I just tweak mine until they work, as part of the trigger job, without really measuring it for weight.

Last edited by Yondering; 07/28/16.
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So given all the combinations that you use on a Super to get what you want, what does the trigger actually end up weighing?

Since you have a heavier mainspring, probably actually increase the sear spring weight from stock & leave the hammer hooks at stock .023", I'd venture to guess something around 5 lb. or so, maybe a tad more.

Are you hunting with the Super or using it for SD purposes?

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More like ~4 lb, or a little less. Never had an issue with them.

It was just for blasting. I don't carry a 1911 for SD any more.

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Trigger pull is not directly proportional to mainspring power. There are frictional forces involved and others.

Polish

Hook

Friction on the levering parts.


But your correct, a heavier mainspring does increase the trigger pull somewhat.


Gun Shows are almost as comical as boat ramps in the Spring.
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OK put the wilson firing pin stop on the gun.

Unfortunately I could not use the wislon flat spring.

My spring guide is too big in diameter


Which one do I need to use this spring? Here is a bunch

http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=1911+spring+guide



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I have never used the flat springs. I would not want to steer you wrong. Maybe someone else knows. Wilson's customer is very good. Call them to be sure. They will take your order also.


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Originally Posted by Fotis
OK put the wilson firing pin stop on the gun.

Unfortunately I could not use the wislon flat spring.

My spring guide is too big in diameter


Which one do I need to use this spring? Here is a bunch

http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=1911+spring+guide



When you buy the flat wire springs from Wilson the first time the proper guide plug comes with the spring.




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guess I screwed up bought the spring only from midway I ordered one from wilson


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