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Tarkio Offline OP
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Cross posting this to try and get some responses.

I am looking for a solution to mounting a small gas motor on a canoe we are looking to take into the cabin.

The canoe is a mad river canoe. Looking to put a 3 hp gas motor on it to expedite our trip in and through the various lakes on the trip in.

What have you guys used? What are your suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by Tarkio; 06/06/16.

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Google up canoe side mount..should find one.

LC here you go

http://www.2daydeliver.com/product_detail.php?id=SKUB004RMFOQM#.V1YiEL5ZqtQ

Last edited by leftycarbon; 06/06/16.
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Get a canoe with a square stern or rig up something solid with marine plywood and PT lumber to add to yours. Keep it as light as you can.

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Tarkio Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Lockhart
Get a canoe with a square stern or rig up something solid with marine plywood and PT lumber to add to yours. Keep it as light as you can.


We have some square stern canoes already.

I am contemplating taking a mad river royalex canoe into the cabin to have there to use in case of an emergency. If all goes to crap, a good mad river canoe would be reasonably easy to portage, even single-handed and much more efficient as far as paddling goes.

Th question comes from how to efficiently get the canoe in to the cabin. Hence the ? about a motor mount to help get in without taking an inordinate amount of time paddling in.


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I have used a side mount with a small outboard years ago on a 17' Roylex canoe..
Works great, but be sure to attach the side mount very securely to the canoe..
If it comes off while the motor is running things become "western" very quick!

Last edited by Nrut; 06/06/16.

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Back in the late 60's, early 70's I made up a side mount to fit my Peterborough canoe. I second the suggestion that the mount be sturdy otherwise under power the mount will start to torque over (Not good). In my case we were using a 6 h.p. motor which was really too big for the job. (The prior year we had used an old 1 or 2 h.p. motor which left us stranded in the middle of a large lake facing a strong head wind with a large load of moose on board.) The next year we joined two canoes and created a catamaran with the motor mounted between the canoes. This worked well.

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Tarkio Offline OP
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Originally Posted by 1OntarioJim
Back in the late 60's, early 70's I made up a side mount to fit my Peterborough canoe. I second the suggestion that the mount be sturdy otherwise under power the mount will start to torque over (Not good). In my case we were using a 6 h.p. motor which was really too big for the job. (The prior year we had used an old 1 or 2 h.p. motor which left us stranded in the middle of a large lake facing a strong head wind with a large load of moose on board.) The next year we joined two canoes and created a catamaran with the motor mounted between the canoes. This worked well.


Thanks for the response.

Tying a couple canoes together might be a good option.



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Easy, infinite-length portaging: tie two small rope loops (3" dia or so) around the portage yoke. Wear an external frame backpack with the top cross bar removed, leaving the vertical post ends ("horns") sticking up. Slip the rope loops over the horns, with the yoke behind the horns. This puts the entire canoe weight on the packframe instead of the neck. Ballast the canoe as needed so that the balance point is a touch behind the portage yoke, and hand-hold a bow line to keep the canoe level while walking.

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Originally Posted by Vek
Easy, infinite-length portaging: tie two small rope loops (3" dia or so) around the portage yoke. Wear an external frame backpack with the top cross bar removed, leaving the vertical post ends ("horns") sticking up. Slip the rope loops over the horns, with the yoke behind the horns. This puts the entire canoe weight on the packframe instead of the neck. Ballast the canoe as needed so that the balance point is a touch behind the portage yoke, and hand-hold a bow line to keep the canoe level while walking.


Have a picture of you doing this?


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Nope. Get a buddy, get a canoe with a well-placed (centered) portage bar or yoke, don a frame pack with removeable top crossbar removed, flip canoe and have buddy hold one end up above his head, get under the portage yoke with your frame pack on, ponder how to get the portage yoke to stick to your frame pack, remember the rope loops I described, tell your red-faced buddy to put the canoe down, tie two rope loops around the portage yoke, repeat most of the above, have buddy lower the canoe slowly while you guide the rope loops over your pack horns, and viola.

Rope loops are a poor descriptor on my part. You want to tie about 12" to 16" of light rope into a 3" diameter circle around the portage yoke with a knot that won't slip. I use two abutting overhand knots that jam each other. Surgeon's knot would also work. The rope doesn't need to be super herky.

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In an emergency, a 2x4 on the inside of the canoe, thin ply on the outside, and you are good to go. Catamaran is the safest. Lash the canoes just far enough apart that you can pass a beer from one canoe to the other with a paddle. Any closer and you get a standing wave that will fill one or both canoes. Farther apart and you need to have the beer in your canoe.

Side mounts are ok, but really throw off the balance of the canoe, but you won't get as wet as with the 2x4.

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I own a Grumman canoe, they make a side motor mount for their canoes. Not sure if it would fit a Mad River or not. It looks like Mad River does not make one. You might check Old Town to see if they offer one. I would also suggest picking up a copy of Canoe Magazine, and see if anyone is selling them.

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A piece of treated 2 by 4 cut to fit over the gunwales and held in place by a couple long stainless bolts with self locking nuts works on my 18 foot Grumman. I have a 2 HP motor and it is plenty strong enough.


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Originally Posted by Vek
Easy, infinite-length portaging: tie two small rope loops (3" dia or so) around the portage yoke. Wear an external frame backpack with the top cross bar removed, leaving the vertical post ends ("horns") sticking up. Slip the rope loops over the horns, with the yoke behind the horns. This puts the entire canoe weight on the packframe instead of the neck. Ballast the canoe as needed so that the balance point is a touch behind the portage yoke, and hand-hold a bow line to keep the canoe level while walking.

I attached a pair of hooks to the pack frame and the hooks held the yoke. Paddles lashed at the rear of the canoe provided the right balance. Leaning the canoe up against a tree allows me to get under it and hook up. GD

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Posted down in the Freshwater section, but will post it here too. All we ever used was two 3/8" thick pieces of plywood, roughly 4"x8" that were connected by a couple short pieces of webbing. The webbing draped over the gunnel and one piece of plywood went on the outside and one on the inside. The 2 hp Evinrude outboard then clamped on the plywood and "sandwiched" the canoe wall. It added strength and prevented damage, but was light and easy to take off if you wanted to paddle instead. Probably cost less than $10 and took less than an hour to make.

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I used 4.5 Merc on a 17'6" Clipper square stern freighter, that was over doing it!


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Here you go.

http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/32626?page=motor-mount

It costs a lot for what you get, but it works well. Replace the wingnuts with regular nuts and use a wrench to tighten it down.


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Used the side mount option numerous times and it works well. However you need to be mindful of how heavy your outboard is! A small 3hp 2stroke would be manageable but some of the 4 cycles can get pretty heavy. Not only in actual use but boarding and unloading. Even my 2 Yamaha can tip a 17 footer over if you're not careful landing when you get out, a little thought goes a long way. Drying out a water flooded engine in the back country can suck!

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Like others have said, a side mount and an outboard can get squirrely fast. Turn too sharp and it wants to roll the canoe over instead of turning, all the weight is to one side and any shift in weight will turn the canoe. Running a trapline with a side mount I turned a canoe over in -0 F. temps, lived to tell about it and that was the last time with a side mount. Now my Beaver aluminum gets paddled and the Martin Sq. Stern gets the motor.


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