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Edit to add, a buddy started his AR as a sub gun, and now runs supers through a can, 115 barnes X of some type IIRC. Accurate enough, but not nearly quiet enough for my tastes.

At the point we started some of this it was all reformed brass. Then you could buy reformed, but it was still that, and with the advent of made brass, it changes things a bit.

But surplus x39 ammo for blasting is something you won't find cheap in the 300/221 hence my thinking, thats for subs, the x39 is supersonic and for blasting.


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I used 17.5 g of Winchester 296 powder for a 125 g Nosler ballistic tip. Still after 2-3 rounds, won't eject. This is close to max load. Should I go max load?

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I've run two different .300 BO's - one a CMMG, and the other a Daniel. Both worked flawlessly with subs or Supers, although the CMMG was not terribly accurate - about 1.5 to 2 MOA with handloads.

I'm thinking there is some other issue with the gun in question, as it should work well with either load.


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without looking at load data, just in general, if a round won't cycle going a bit more powder isn't goign to change it.

Burn rates can change it though.

One other thought... just a random thought... sometimes the ARs are not smooth until you get 100 round through them or so...

And while thinking... the upper is lubed? Oil and not grease right? They dno't like to run dry... grease is to heavy... mobil 1 30 weight or such... thin film wiped inside upper with a finger, and then on the bearing surfaces of the bolt carrier group...


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Originally Posted by Dixie_Dude
I used 17.5 g of Winchester 296 powder for a 125 g Nosler ballistic tip. Still after 2-3 rounds, won't eject. This is close to max load. Should I go max load?


You'll find a lot of guys loading that a little hotter, as high as 19gr sometimes; I typically use 18gr of H110/296. 17.5gr should cycle fine, you have something else going on with the gun.

What rost said, and check out the gas rings. Is the bolt really stiff in the carrier?

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I"ve personally never seen rings cause an issue, though they should be able to.

The are simple to check and lube, make sure you do look at that.


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I haven't been able to get to the range lately. However, I'm going to try some factory 208g cartridges. I did notice today that it is very dry, the bolt, bolt carrier, etc. So:

I'm going to lub it more before I shoot.

I'm going to change bolts and bolt carriers with my .223 rifle to see what happens.

I'm going to put a 223 upper on the lower to see if the recoil spring works ok.

That should narrow it down without spending any more money other than cartridges.

I've rebuilt it twice and can't see anything wrong. Like I said, never had this problem with 223 uppers.

I did see where H-110 and 296 max loads in Lyman book is 17.8. (I used 17.5). The Hodgdon online said use 17.5 of H-110 with a carbine length barrel.

It is a heavy barrel. I do remember measuring the diameter of the gas hole in the barrel and it was bigger than minimum recommended. It was fairly large, so that isn't the problem.

Would the gas block have to be specific to 300 BO or is the standard block ok? If the gas tubes are the same what would that matter? From everything I have read, only a barrel change is necessary from 223/556 to 300 BO.

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The gas block's are all the same.

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Here are loads that work in my S&W M&P15/.300BLK:

Barnes 110g TAC-TX/20.0g H110 (~2400fps per load data)
Hornady 110g V-MAX/20g H110 (~2382fps per Hodgdon)
Nosler 125g BT/20.7g AA1680 (~1962fps per Nosler)
Hornady 208g A-MAX/11.0g AA1680 (~1050fps per Hornady)



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Sounds like you're on the right track for troubleshooting.

The gas block and tube are not specific to the 300, only the barrel.

What "minimum recommendation" for gas port size did you look at? Plenty of people (and some barrel makers) seem to think they can go by 5.56 specs on the gas system and port size dimensions - that doesn't work for the 300, and you end up with barrels that don't cycle, like yours.

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Originally Posted by Dixie_Dude
I did notice today that it is very dry, the bolt, bolt carrier, etc. So:

I'm going to lube it more before I shoot.


I'd Try this before anything else if it were me.

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Dry, one I had not shot in likely 20 years, got me a few weeks ago... I never even checked.. handed it to our God child and it didn't work right.... WTF, its a colt gun and you know those are worth every penny and work right ALL the time... way better than a damn RRA... LOL.

It was dry... I guess the lube went away over the years.... and probably some dust around too..

Lubed it with oil, I think I had some 5/20 synthetic in the mule... all was fine...


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That could by my problem. I didn't lub it much to begin with. Someone on some website said not to overlub it. I guess that might help and help break it in.

I bought a Benelli SBE several years ago. Eveyone said it wouldn't cycle low bird shot loads and clay sports shots well and would jamb. Well I got a box of 3" mag buckshot and shot the whole box. Then I lubed it up real good. Now I shoot it at the clay range just fine. No jambs even on #8 shot 1 oz loads. And, I can still shoot 3-1/2" mags for geese or turkey.

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Originally Posted by Dixie_Dude
That could by my problem. I didn't lub it much to begin with. Someone on some website said not to overlub it. I guess that might help and help break it in.


Run it wet, and they'll go forever. Shouldn't be so wet that it gets oil on you, but definitely not dry. These things can be nasty dirty with caked up fouling, and still run fine as long as you keep them wet with oil.

No grease, like rost said.

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I'd never break anything in dry.....


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I use Breakfree CLP. Hope that is ok. Works on my 223's.

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Some sort of actual gun oil would be better.

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Breakfree CLP is what I've used for many years without any issues.

When in a pinch I use synthetic oil.

I"ve never had an issue with either. YMMV


We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
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