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If those sights are like mine they have different hole spacing than later 700's. They are hard to come by.


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The slot is not actually a stripper-clip slot but was a slot which was used to locate the receiver for subsequent machining operations to the magazine opening. I believe Mike Walker discussed this in an article in Precision Shooting. Stuart Otteson mentions the slot being a result of the method used for machining the magazine opening as well. The Pre-war Model 70 (and post-war target models) do have a genuine stripper clip slot. GD

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Originally Posted by Jason280
Quote
I don't know if you noticed it. There is no threaded hole on the bottom of the receiver to accept a screw for the ADL style magazine box.


Not sure what you mean, it has the normal style internal box, and three screws on the bottom of the stock (all are standard threaded screws).

Quote

So you are going to hit that antique barrel with a torch?


????


The current ADL internal magazine boxes have a little tab which is secured to the bottom of the receiver by a small screw. Mine doesn't have the tab or a place in the receiver to place the screw.

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Cool rifle.. I saw a 20 " barrel .30-06 in Grices this past summer.. It was pretty badly beat up.. Yours is a gem..


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Originally Posted by mathman
Watch out for scope mount dimensions. I can't recall the cutoff date, but early 700's had a different, lower I believe, rear receiver top.


True.

I built my 6.5-06 on an old 700 and had to use Signatures and the offset insert kit to get it on plane with mechanical zero.

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Cool old survivor. I'd leave it as it.

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The front sight is easily removed by driving the sight blade out and removing the screw which is underneath the blade.

By removing the small screw of the side of the rear sight blade you can get to the screws that secure the rear sight.

I've bought two four digit 700's a while back, both in 30/06. One in a local gun/pawn shop and another off of Gunbroker. I found serial number 21XX at the gunshop while looking for a "beater" rifle for adverse weather. When I saw the serial number, for a bit over $300, I couldn't pass it up. The other which came along a few months later on Gunbroker was even earlier and in better shape so I paid a bit (!) more for that one. grin

If I were you, I'd really douse the trigger assembly down really well with carb cleaner or a similar solvent to ensure the split sear isn't stuck together.


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I had #3333, a 700 ADL in 222, for awhile. Wish that I'd kept it, but other things came up and down the road it went.

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Well, no luck finding a scope for it today...went looking for an older steel tubed Weaver, but think I will stick with something a little more current.

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Originally Posted by Jason280
Well, no luck finding a scope for it today...went looking for an older steel tubed Weaver, but think I will stick with something a little more current.

You need a purple Leupold.

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Originally Posted by tedthorn
Originally Posted by Jason280
Originally Posted by tedthorn
You mention that you are removing the sights


Not sure why you would need a torch, they're held in place with cap screws like most other 700s I've seen....

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

...only difference is it uses only one screw up front, centered between two posts to hold the front sight in place. Seems like a lot more work versus simply threading two holes.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Just have to figure out a way to make that a little more attractive, find a scope, and she will be ready to shoot. Worst case, I can simply reinstall the front sight with a new bead, and call it a day.


My bad...I should have been more clear...
TiG torch...as in filling in the ugly unsightly holes with parent metal and then re-blueing


Really?


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Really?


???

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Originally Posted by SuperCub
Originally Posted by Jason280
Well, no luck finding a scope for it today...went looking for an older steel tubed Weaver, but think I will stick with something a little more current.

You need a purple Leupold.


Purple Leupolds should only be mated to purple Rugers!

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Originally Posted by Reloader7RM
Originally Posted by mathman
Watch out for scope mount dimensions. I can't recall the cutoff date, but early 700's had a different, lower I believe, rear receiver top.


True.

I built my 6.5-06 on an old 700 and had to use Signatures and the offset insert kit to get it on plane with mechanical zero.


The difference is only a few thousandths... if drilled straight the difference is essentially meaningless. If drilled crooked the minor difference is not the issue...




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I think it's seventeen thousandths, which on a short action is worth approximately 10 moa in the wrong direction if you're trying to get the most out of the vertical adjustment range of the scope.

If standard mounts/rings are being used it's also a seventeen thousandths step discontinuity between front and rear ring heights that has to be made up by deflection of the scope tube over the length captured between the rings. No thanks, I'll shim for a better fit.

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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
Originally Posted by SuperCub
Originally Posted by Jason280
Well, no luck finding a scope for it today...went looking for an older steel tubed Weaver, but think I will stick with something a little more current.

You need a purple Leupold.


Purple Leupolds should only be mated to purple Rugers!

I think you're right! smile

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Originally Posted by mathman
I think it's seventeen thousandths, which on a short action is worth approximately 10 moa in the wrong direction if you're trying to get the most out of the vertical adjustment range of the scope.

If standard mounts/rings are being used it's also a seventeen thousandths step discontinuity between front and rear ring heights that has to be made up by deflection of the scope tube over the length captured between the rings. No thanks, I'll shim for a better fit.


Yep. Mine was a LA and it was a rather larger gap with a one piece base. I scratched that, went Leupold DD bases and the right Burris inserts to get mechanical zero close at 200yds. An interesting note is it was first tried by the builder with a one piece, which induced stress and accuracy suffered. He switched to sigs and 2 piece bases, which brought accuracy to his 1/2moa gtty. I further corrected the issue with the offset inserts to gain travel. It worked out quite well.


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Originally Posted by EdM
Originally Posted by tedthorn
Originally Posted by Jason280
Originally Posted by tedthorn
You mention that you are removing the sights


Not sure why you would need a torch, they're held in place with cap screws like most other 700s I've seen....

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

...only difference is it uses only one screw up front, centered between two posts to hold the front sight in place. Seems like a lot more work versus simply threading two holes.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Just have to figure out a way to make that a little more attractive, find a scope, and she will be ready to shoot. Worst case, I can simply reinstall the front sight with a new bead, and call it a day.


My bad...I should have been more clear...
TiG torch...as in filling in the ugly unsightly holes with parent metal and then re-blueing


Really?


Lay it on me Ed.....I'm all ears


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To the OP,

I have a 243 of the same vintage. It shoots Barnes TTSX 80's really well, surprisingly well with IMR 4831, Lapua brass, and F210's.

fyi - check the trigger closely, it probably has two sears unless it has been replaced. This is the original Walker trigger, which has caused Remington lots and lots of trouble with unintended discharges when it is pushed into "fire." Also, the trigger has a tab, which locks the bolt in place, while on "safe." The safety has to be pushed to "fire" to cycle the bolt to unload it. Any gunsmith with any experience can grind the tab off while you wait, so the trigger can remain on safe while the rifle is unloaded. Definitely worth the effort, or just put in a Timney, Rifle Basix, or a Jewell.

Check the barrel markings for a heart symbol. Some folks claim that some of the barrels were made by Hart, but others say no. Never really saw a conclusive answer out of Remington on the question.




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Originally Posted by mathman
I think it's seventeen thousandths, which on a short action is worth approximately 10 moa in the wrong direction if you're trying to get the most out of the vertical adjustment range of the scope.

If standard mounts/rings are being used it's also a seventeen thousandths step discontinuity between front and rear ring heights that has to be made up by deflection of the scope tube over the length captured between the rings. No thanks, I'll shim for a better fit.


What's the easiest way to determine if mine has the offset?

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