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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 69,566 |
Got a small hole in my big tractor fuel tank. Was shredding some rattle bushes, and one of the stalks squeezed through the metal plate on the bottom of the tank...  What's the easiest way to fix the leak? I hate to take the tank off, and fix it that way until my work is done this fall. Just looking for a way to keep going until I can fix it right... In case you are wondering, rattle bushes... http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/ornamentals/nativeshrubs/sesbaniadrum.htm
Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla!
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 29,786 |
That blue and white strip of muck you kneed together till it is green then force into the hole, you it buy at service stations.
Sets like rock.
These are my opinions, feel free to disagree.
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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second on the sheet metal screw with neoprene washer not rubber, diesel fuel esp. damn bio stuff will ruin rubber pretty quick!
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Posts: 69,566
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 69,566 |
Checking out the rate it's leaking now. Parked the tractor and put a coffee can under the leak to gauge that. It still has the broken off wood in the tank, and doesn't appear to be leaking much. Probably will just wait until I get through with all my projects and fix it right this winter. One thing is becoming more clear though... I probably need to fabricate some skid plates for under the tractor. 
Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla!
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Joined: Feb 2013
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,893 |
Is yours poly or metal??? was a common prob with poly ones on new holland that hung low on the side always something wedging in there between frame and tank, course working for state no one really gave a $hit
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 69,566
Campfire Kahuna
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OP
Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 69,566 |
It's poly.
Tank has a skid plate of sorts under the bottom, and about 2 inches around the bottom on the front. But, it's not a solid unit. Stick came right in between the skid plates at the bottom.
If you want something done right, do it yourself. I'll bet my skid plates work a tad better.
Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla!
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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I'd use a screw, a flat washer, and JB Weld or RTV sealant.
I've used RTV to stop leaks around some fuel line fittings on my diesel MF 175.
On a plastic tank you could also use fiberglass tape and resin or epoxy without a screw
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 53,303 |
Barry, rig up your shop vac so's to pull a vacuum in the tank (in other words, plug any vents) Duct tape, Saran Wrap, whatever.
THAN do your drilling and fit your sheet metal screw / plug.
You'll note that their will be little if any tendency for the plug to "weep".
Leave the vacuum on and CLEAN the repair area with acetone / MEK. Devcon Plastic Welder would be my first choice ,....BUT it doesn't always stick to every plastic,....ABS in particular.
Try the vacuum stunt next time you have to disconnect / change out a hose from a large tank or sump, and draining is just not an option.
GTC
Member, Clan of the Border Rats
-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Campfire Kahuna
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OP
Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Aug 2004
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Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla!
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 21,317
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 21,317 |
If it's a poly tank, even if cross linked, you can repair it with a poly welder. I inadvertently ran a saw into the fuel tank on my boat and repaired it with a poly welder.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 19,097
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 19,097 |
Getting off subject a little but still about fuel tanks. I have an old rectangle diesel tank that holds 100 gal, that is in 2 compartments. I would like to weld some hooks or something to make it easy to load in and out of the truck when full, using my front end loader. What would be the safe way to accomplish this task. I have been putting chains around and under the bottom, but this is a hassle, and I would like to make things easier. miles
Look out for number 1, don't step in number 2.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 21,317
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 21,317 |
Drain all the diesel then fill the tank with water and weld it while full of water.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 19,097
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 19,097 |
Thanks, kinda what I thought, but have little experience with this kind of stuff. Never had a welder before and still learning. miles
Look out for number 1, don't step in number 2.
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Posts: 5,202
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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Use a self-tapping screw and you won't need to drill a hole first. Just coat the screw with epoxy and screw it in.
I'd also siphon out all the fuel I could and strain out any debris.
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 53,303
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 53,303 |
Use a self-tapping screw and you won't need to drill a hole first. Just coat the screw with epoxy and screw it in.
I'd also siphon out all the fuel I could and strain out any debris. ^^^^^ Bad advice. GTC
Member, Clan of the Border Rats
-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 69,566 |
Use a self-tapping screw and you won't need to drill a hole first. Just coat the screw with epoxy and screw it in.
I'd also siphon out all the fuel I could and strain out any debris. ^^^^^ Bad advice. GTC I would never even consider taking the advice of a liberal anyway...  
Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla!
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 53,303 |
Without a pilot hole, it's more than likely that down line one will find stress cracks radiating outward from around the liberal's suggested FUBAR.
I think the one he wrote about scopes not needing to be level was the prime classic though. Perhaps he wrote that for his MM degree thesis.
Member, Clan of the Border Rats
-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Campfire Kahuna
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OP
Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 69,566 |
Without a pilot hole, it's more than likely that down line one will find stress cracks radiating outward from around the liberal's suggested FUBAR.
I think the one he wrote about scopes not needing to be level was the prime classic though. Perhaps he wrote that for his MM degree thesis. Yep. I think I'm dealing with a crack rather than a hole now. The stick wedged itself between the skidplate and the tank causing a very small crack. Not leaking a cup full a day. I'll wait until winter and my busy season is over, and fix it right.
Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla!
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 53,303 |
Find out what the formula is, and chase down a good plastic welding outfit that's familiar with the material.
...some conservative advice from SE Az
GTC
Member, Clan of the Border Rats
-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Campfire Kahuna
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OP
Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 69,566 |
 Thankee, Kindly!
Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla!
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 38,842 |
Charlie Sisk once said someone repaired a leaking radiator in a tractor with Accraglass...
Be curious if it would work on a poly tank and likely, you have some around....
Me
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 21,317
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 21,317 |
Poly's slick stuff. There may be some epoxies that stick to it, but you're much better off using a welder. I got a basic welder with fillers from Urethane Supply company. I've used it for repairing a fuel tank, body parts on a snowmobile and fenders on my boat trailer.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 53,303
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 53,303 |
Poly's slick stuff. There may be some epoxies that stick to it, but you're much better off using a welder. I got a basic welder with fillers from Urethane Supply company. I've used it for repairing a fuel tank, body parts on a snowmobile and fenders on my boat trailer. Agree 110 % Some of the potable water tanks are joined with ultrasonic welding and to date have defeated my every effort to get a sound, long lived repair,...NOTHING will stick to em'. Robbing a non critical part, and hot knifing a patch has worked a time or two. I do think the fuel tanks are a little more forgiving , but you need one of the classic "Hi-Solv" plastic welders that will get an "Etch" right off the bat,...the stuff they "Ban" in Kalifornicatia. Watch the fumes, or lose brain and liver function. GTC
Member, Clan of the Border Rats
-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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Without a pilot hole, it's more than likely that down line one will find stress cracks radiating outward from around the liberal's suggested FUBAR.
I think the one he wrote about scopes not needing to be level was the prime classic though. Perhaps he wrote that for his MM degree thesis. A "self-tapping screw" drills it's own pilot hole. You should stick to things you know about, like drinking and acting like an ass.
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 53,303
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 53,303 |
To SMALL a pilot hole,...for some densities of plastic,....and WILL cause radial stress cracks.
Folks, don't mistake plastic for sheet metal, they have pretty unique and individual mechanical characteristics and properties.
GTC
Member, Clan of the Border Rats
-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 9,919
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 9,919 |
Cross, don't ask him how to fix a crack in cast iron. I bet it doesn't start with drilling a hole
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,202
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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Cross, don't ask him how to fix a crack in cast iron. I bet it doesn't start with drilling a hole You'd lose that bet. Some want to nitpick over the size of a hole by acting like a big A-hole.
One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,915
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,915 |
I have a 2500 gallon plastic tank on my water truck. It cracked in a couple places near the top. Got one of those plastic welding kits with the plastic rod. Drilled a hole at each end of the crack and welded it up per the instructions. Didn't work worth a schidt. Crack opened up again. Wouldn't recommend that solution to anyone except a liberal!
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 21,317
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 21,317 |
If the plastic is degraded due to UV exposure the welding isn't going to be a solution. Just like a rusted out steel tank can't be made right by burning rods.
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Posts: 53,303
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 53,303 |
I have a 2500 gallon plastic tank on my water truck. It cracked in a couple places near the top. Got one of those plastic welding kits with the plastic rod. Drilled a hole at each end of the crack and welded it up per the instructions. Didn't work worth a schidt. Crack opened up again. Wouldn't recommend that solution to anyone except a liberal! Don, did you ever get that thing patched ? Got some stuff here that sticks like the proverbial schidt to a blanket,...and most ANY plastic,...until I tried patching the potable water tank out of a gal friends live aboard slant. I did come up with a method of patching it,...but gonna keep it under my old beat up hat. GTC
Member, Clan of the Border Rats
-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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Never did get the tank fixed. I just don't fill it up all the way.
The cracks could be from UV. We have some of that here in Arizona but they started less than a year after I got it. Have a feeling it is due to the way I strapped it down to the bed of the truck.
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Posts: 9,209
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,209 |
That tank is likely hdpe. Look into fusion for hdpe. It bonds around 400*f. If using a plastic welder on plastic that can "heat sink" due to its mass, throw some heat at it before the weld.
I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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Campfire Kahuna
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OP
Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 69,566 |
As of now the problem solved itself.
Not leaking anymore. I suspect that the wood causing the small leak had sealed the hole to the point it's not even dripping.
I'll leave it be until it gets my attention again.
Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla!
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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Barry, rig up your shop vac so's to pull a vacuum in the tank (in other words, plug any vents) Duct tape, Saran Wrap, whatever.
THAN do your drilling and fit your sheet metal screw / plug.
You'll note that their will be little if any tendency for the plug to "weep".
Leave the vacuum on and CLEAN the repair area with acetone / MEK. Devcon Plastic Welder would be my first choice ,....BUT it doesn't always stick to every plastic,....ABS in particular.
Try the vacuum stunt next time you have to disconnect / change out a hose from a large tank or sump, and draining is just not an option.
GTC
Shop vac and gasoline is a deadly combination....unless they make an intrincly safe shop vac....
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 53,303
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 53,303 |
Barry, rig up your shop vac so's to pull a vacuum in the tank (in other words, plug any vents) Duct tape, Saran Wrap, whatever.
THAN do your drilling and fit your sheet metal screw / plug.
You'll note that their will be little if any tendency for the plug to "weep".
Leave the vacuum on and CLEAN the repair area with acetone / MEK. Devcon Plastic Welder would be my first choice ,....BUT it doesn't always stick to every plastic,....ABS in particular.
Try the vacuum stunt next time you have to disconnect / change out a hose from a large tank or sump, and draining is just not an option.
GTC
Shop vac and gasoline is a deadly combination....unless they make an intrincly safe shop vac....
W A T E R,...I believe that's what the tank discussed contained ? Diesel ?,...No problems , thus far ( but point taken) Hydraulic Sumps ?,...I'll continue doing it with plain old shop vacs. Thanks for pointing out the Gasoline hazard ! GTC
Member, Clan of the Border Rats
-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain
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Posts: 7,476
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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Posts: 7,476 |
Plastic welder would get my vote. Those plastic tanks flex more than you'd think with varying amounts of fuel in them, and temp changes. Epoxies, unless they are equally supple,, would peel after a while.
To anger a conservative, lie to him. To annoy a liberal, tell him the truth.
Promoted to Turdlike status 03/17/12
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Campfire Savant
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Campfire Savant
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 150,996 |
Fiber glass , pipe repair kit
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