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Has anyone put a lift/level kit on their 2016 Ford F150? I thought I might want to lift mine a little when I switch to new BF Goodrich ATs and was wondering how that might affect the gas mileage and handling.


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It's hard to say accurately, but going to larger tires could decrease your mileage. The factory tried to maximize mileage for government regs and they have the tires matched to the RPM to do it. OTOH, if you have low gears, larger tires could help the mileage.
At any rate, you'll need to have the speedo recalibrated for larger ones. You used to have to replace the speedo gear on the transmission but now it's done electronically.


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last thing I'd do , is spend money to lift a pickup , I wouldn't even look at a used pickup thats been lifted


the suspension has been engineered to run at the factory height for reasons...and I wouldnt care for spending extra money for bigger wider tires , which will decrease your traction on ice and snow , and I wouldnt want the decreased gas milege which goes with all of those mods.....

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For my purposes, a leveled pickup is a liability. When I load mine, the rear goes down to level. I have air bags to be sure it doesn't go below level. I don't want the front high when running loaded.


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Glad I polled the audience before I wasted my $$!! Looks like I'll just stick with stock when I make the switch to those BFGs.....thanks for the input.


Biden's most truthful quote ever came during his first press conference, 03/25/21.
Drum roll please...... "I don't know, to be clear." and THAT is one promise he's kept!!!
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There are some things to consider here that cover a wide range of use.

First to increase the tire size more then the lift is required. If you have for instance 3.73 axle ratios and a 30" tire you would need 4.10 axles ratios to use 35" tires. This would keep the balance of power and the MPG relatively close. It would also allow your low gears to remain low rather then kinda low.

Next thought is what is it for? for looks, or for function? If you say function, then tire size becomes nearly irrelevant. the function will come from a very good rear diff lock device. The reality of 4x4 trucks is that they are under the worst case conditions only driving two wheels, one front and one rear. the other two are just spinning free without solid traction or off the ground.

So...... to do this properly and have your cake and eat it too. You need to add either a quality gear driven ( no friction lube) limited slip, or a mechanical or electrical locker possibly pneumatic or cable driven from the driver seat. Then at the same time you're adding this brilliant device, you change the ring and pinions to 4:10 or whatever the ratio calculates out to be. After which you can lift 4" and put the bigger tires on.

Okay this it the correct method to accomplish this. However it's about 5000.00 bucks give or take a 1000 bucks plus new Alloy wheels to fit the new tires properly.

This is the reason 99% of the lifted trucks you see are for show only! My current Ram 2500 with the diesel is set up this way. It's an astonishing vehicle off road. Plus I can pull anything I choose. It was a very high level of commitment to accomplish these additional benefits. However it did not come without a learning process and problems I cannot overcome. Diesels are not a good choice for a really great off road truck. They are just too heavy. The way my truck is set up but on a half ton gas engine pickup would be flawless. Although not for towing.

There will be trade offs in any choice you make. no one vehicle fits all applications, no one tire choice fits all applications. Figure out what you want to have as an end game and then work towards that. Just remember that nothing period makes a truck perform better then a rear limited slip or selectable locker.

Once you have both backs and one front rotating under full power your whole capability changes off road. It's like a 100% different and better vehicle.


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Quote
So...... to do this properly and have your cake and eat it too. You need to add either a quality gear driven ( no friction lube) limited slip, or a mechanical or electrical locker possibly pneumatic or cable driven from the driver seat. Then at the same time you're adding this brilliant device, you change the ring and pinions to 4:10 or whatever the ratio calculates out to be. After which you can lift 4" and put the bigger tires on.
that's what gives ATV's & UTV's their great performance - front and rear lockers never found on stock pickups plus a very low gear ratio and wide, low pressure tires. Without those lockers, they'd be stuck all the time.


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My rhino is simply astonishing off road for exactly this reason.

When I built my 1977 toyota land cruiser from the ground up I had ARB lockers front and rear. It was as good as the Rhino off road.

Actually better, I had heat and a radio in the TLC


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We bought a used Polaris RZR 2 seater this summer, just for playing around. I'm amazed at where it will go. A few more inches underneath would make it unstoppable. The previous owner had added an aftermarket full body skid plate that lets it just slide over the rocks.

But back to the OP...The cost of setting up a pickup for that kind of stuff can come to the cost of buying a Razor and being done with it. I'm not a fan of lifted trucks anyway. My Dodge 2500 is so high that I had to add nerf bars just to get into it and it's stock.


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I have a 2016 F150 and the only thing I hate about it are the 20" wheels. I like all the other options that came with it but when it is new tire time the 20's will be replaced with 18's for sure.

One other thing not sure how the warranty is affected by a lift

Last edited by Oldelkhunter; 10/13/16. Reason: one other thing
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Just something to think about there seems to be far more tire options with 17" wheels then 18"


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Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
I have a 2016 F150 and the only thing I hate about it are the 20" wheels. I like all the other options that came with it but when it is new tire time the 20's will be replaced with 18's for sure.

One other thing not sure how the warranty is affected by a lift


The local Ford (and Toyota) dealer sells new trucks not just leveled but fully lifted (4") and warrantied.


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In order for a dealer to deny a warranty claim due to an aftermarket part they have to be able to prove it caused the failure.

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Originally Posted by EdM
Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
I have a 2016 F150 and the only thing I hate about it are the 20" wheels. I like all the other options that came with it but when it is new tire time the 20's will be replaced with 18's for sure.

One other thing not sure how the warranty is affected by a lift


The local Ford (and Toyota) dealer sells new trucks not just leveled but fully lifted (4") and warrantied.


Probably approved by the manufacturer, not sure if done elsewhere other then factory authorized that it does not void the warranty. Chevy for that matter does the same thing, theirs are warrantied

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Originally Posted by Rock Chuck
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So...... to do this properly and have your cake and eat it too. You need to add either a quality gear driven ( no friction lube) limited slip, or a mechanical or electrical locker possibly pneumatic or cable driven from the driver seat. Then at the same time you're adding this brilliant device, you change the ring and pinions to 4:10 or whatever the ratio calculates out to be. After which you can lift 4" and put the bigger tires on.
that's what gives ATV's & UTV's their great performance - front and rear lockers never found on stock pickups plus a very low gear ratio and wide, low pressure tires. Without those lockers, they'd be stuck all the time.


That's not true my truck has lockers and its stock.

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What manufacturer includes or offers lockers front and rear in the USA?

Or do you mean limited slip in the rear axel only?


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Originally Posted by JJHACK
What manufacturer includes or offers lockers front and rear in the USA?

Or do you mean limited slip in the rear axel only?


Power Wagon?


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Originally Posted by JJHACK
What manufacturer includes or offers lockers front and rear in the USA?

Or do you mean limited slip in the rear axel only?


My truck is a ram power wagon like badger just mentioned not sure if anyone else has front and rear lockers. They're electronic otherwise when not in use it has a limited slip in the rear which will get you out of a lot of situations.

Jeep also makes the rubicon.

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I did not know the power wagon was still made new! Good info. I know two guys that have one both mid 2000's. Neither can get the front locker to engage with the selector on demand. Both require some distance to drive before they will engage.

Both guys are simply disgusted with the amount of "technology" involved with the process of simply engaging the axel. I do not know about the Rubicon's speed to engage but the design from my understanding is exactly the same. Why they chose such a complicated arrangement instead of just contracting with ARB for the proven flawless air lockers is a mystery!

The rear of the Power wagon is flawless, locks up probably within a single rotation. Dodge says to turn the wheels right and left when the lights flashing or drive in reverse to get the front to engage. Odd, if I'm stuck I need that locker to engage when I tell it to, not when all the stars in perfect alignment. I've seen both these guys drive 100 yards and weave the truck and then go reverse and still the engagement light is flashing and will not lock. I would be very disappointed in that design. Then the next time they want it on, they select and Boom it's engaged. Funny stuff for all that technology!

I know that the Toyota Land cruiser FJ had front and rear electric lockers and they locked up within seconds of selecting them. Although occasionally difficult to disengage with the R&P gears locked up tight. Then driving in reverse would open them up. That's a far more reasonable design to have them difficult unlock when not needed rather that not lock when you do need it.

I've had an Aussie Locker and a Detroit locker in my life on other vehicles. Both are spectacular off road, but not always a good choice on the icy highway at 50 plus MPH. Once I had the ARB's put in, I was done looking for a perfect solution. The ARB and the OX lockers are nearly instant engagement and flawless.

As in the Power wagon, my Ram 2500 has the limited slip read end. It's very nice and locks up even on a gravel road when making a sharp turn ( sometimes in a paved parking lot too). It's about as good in my opinion as the Aussie Locker. Those guys at American Axles got this rear end about right!



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Originally Posted by Nebraska
Has anyone put a lift/level kit on their 2016 Ford F150? I thought I might want to lift mine a little when I switch to new BF Goodrich ATs and was wondering how that might affect the gas mileage and handling.


Going to the BFG's will reduce your mileage whether or not they're bigger. They just do.

I have the new bfg KO 2's and I have to say, i'm not all that impressed. They flat out suck in the rain. Sand they're good. Mud they're OK, snow they're fine.


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