Home Forums Gear Hunting Trucks and Four-Wheel Drives Got the dreaded P20BA code on 6.7L

On the way back from town the check engine light on my 2013 6.7L Ford 250 came on. Turned around and went to the Ford dealer, and they offered to set me up with an appointment two days from now to read the code. I said no thanks and went to O'Reilly where they read it for free. It's the P20BA code for a bad DEF heater. Looking at the internet, seems this was really a problem with 2011 models.
Anyone else have this and what is the best/cheapest way to fix it? Would you do it yourself? I hate dealerships.

It should be covered under your emissions warranty. Let ford fix it.

Ive got 87000 miles on it. Are emissions covered that long?

In reading your manual it looks like a 5 year 50,000 mile warranty on the emissions (including DEF) for vehicles with a GVWR over 8,500 pounds. Too bad, as the power stroke itself is covers for 5 years 100,000 miles. Maybe check using your vin to see if there are any special extended coverages. GM has them on the def tank, glow plugs, and NOx sensors in my 2011. All of those things have failed and been replaced in my 2011, all of them under warranty.

BTW, for $50-$100 you can buy a code reader at O'Reilly and read your own codes any time. I have one and it sure is nice to see what is going on before you fix it or bring it in. I was on a vacation in CA and popped a MIL light and O'Reilly said it was illegal for them to read a code! They said I could take it to a store in Nevada and they could read the code, but not reset the light. I asked if they sold code readers. Even in CA they sold the reader that would read and reset the light. CA is crazy like that.

Doesn't help with your problem, but to go along with what K1500 said.

You can also get a 5-10.00 bluetooth obd2 reader from feebay that works with any number of apps on a smart phone for real time info and code reading/clearing.

Sometimes there kinda a bi*tch to get to sync the first time, but a quick google search will set you on the right path.

Might be worth buying a reader. From what I understand reading forums on the internet, Ford instructions are to reset and cycle the heater for a charge of $135. Lots of people with this problem don't make it home before the light comes on again, resulting in another visit for heater replacement.

I know people are more likely to post thier unhappiness about problems like this, so trying to guage what my chances for good results are, and avoid wasting money. I also don't trust the local dealership. I always want to know more about the problem than they do before I hand it to them.

Have you tried Ford forums?

I like FTE - Ford Truck Enthusiasts.

6.7L forum here:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum205/

I think I did look at FTE. Found some pretty good links there too. Just trying to determine how common a problem it is and best way to resolve it.

2013 FORD EMISSIONS DEFECT WARRANTY COVERAGE

During the warranty coverage period, Ford Motor Company warrants that:
•your vehicle or engine is designed, built, and equipped to meet - at the time it is sold - the emissions regulations of the U.S.Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

•your vehicle or engine is free from emission-related defects in
factory-supplied materials or workmanship, which are defects that could prevent the vehicle or engine from conforming with applicable EPA regulations.

•you will not be charged for diagnosis, repair, replacement, or
adjustment of parts containing an emissions-related defect. Applicable parts are listed under What is Covered? on pages 20-21.

The warranty coverage period for:

•Passenger cars, light duty trucks (applies to vehicles up to 8,500 pounds GVWR)— 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic converters, electronic emissions control unit, and onboard emissions diagnostic devices. — 3 years or 36,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all other covered parts.

•Heavy duty vehicles (applies to trucks over 8,500 pounds GVWR up to19,500 pounds GVWR) — 5 years or 50,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all covered parts. See WHAT IS COVERED for list of covered parts.

18
EMISSIONS PERFORMANCE WARRANTY COVERAGE

Under Emissions Performance Warranty Coverage, Ford Motor Company will repair, replace, or adjust - with no charge for labor, diagnosis, or parts - any emissions control device or system, if you meet all of the following
conditions:

•You have maintained and operated your vehicle according to the
instructions on proper care in the Owner’s Manual and this booklet.

Page 23 of the 2013 Model Year Ford Warranty Guide

You're over the 8,500 GVWR limit, putting you in the heavy duty emission warranty category. So you're covered for 5 years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first. Note that the warranty states you can't be charged for diagnostic fees if the defect is emission related.

Hope this helps.

Yeah looks like I'm stuck paying for a new chicken pee heater. Now the question is can I get my arthritic shoulder to cooperate and do the job myself, or hire someone to do it? I've watched several Utube videos and it's not complicated,but I just have trouble working with my arms over my head anymore.

I feel you Allen, After 40 plus years of shooting a heavy bow, my right shoulder starts talking to me at times. I've felt the painful tinge just reaching across to pull my truck seatbelt out of the winder at times. Painting, nailing, or anything reaching up over head is a pain.

It's not arthritis it's a pestering rotator cuff issue. It's calms down and works fine for a couple months and then flairs up. I'm always in panic mode right before a hunt. Will it crop up on me at the worst time.

Hope you can do it yourself. Consider to mentor a young guy you can teach to help with the difficult overhead stuff. He learns some things and you get the job done.

In Idaho you could use a doctor's note to get a permit to use a crossbow during archery seasons.
End of hijack. Back to the sick truck.

My problem may be rotator cup too. Assuming it's arthritis cause the thumb on that side is sore all the time too. Good to know about Idaho, Sand Point area has a certain appeal to me. Too long to talk about here but Sand Point keeps butting into my life in strange ways, like the time I called my bank in Andrews, Tx and got the bank in Sand Point. Spooky!

Anyway, visited the Ford house, this morning. Parts are $385, parts and installation is $900, assuming nothing else is found wrong. Parts online are $285 with shipping. Maybe I can find me a young guy to remove the 17 bolts and set the tank on the ground for me. Then I can replace the parts and he can bolt it back up with minimal assistance from me.

On the Ford Truck Enthusiast web site they have regional/state chapters where folks get together and work on their trucks. If you can't do the work, a couple cases of beer and some eats should suffice. You'd have to supply all parts, of course.

They have a meeting coming up in south Texas in October. I don't know how close you are to that area, but it might be an option if you have the time and want to save a few bucks. Contact them on the FTE web site for more info.

Click Here

That would be pretty neat! Its about 500 miles from me, but the thought of south TX mexican food makes it very atractive. I hate Tx-Mex food and in east Tx all you can get is a watered down version of that, it's just awful. I like western ÑM /AZ mexican food the best, followed closely by south TX. Getting the truck fixed would be a good excuse to go.

Well I fixed it! Ordered the new heated reservoir for the DEF tank from Lakeland Ford in Florida. Cost me $295 w/ shipping. Thats $100 less than the local dealership was asking. I watched a couple of Utube videos on changing it, then laided down in the driveway and started tearing it out. Not all that hard to do unless you are old, arthritic and have some belly like I do. Underside of the pickup is pretty clean and that was a blessing. Dropped the skid plate and bracket, then the DEF tank. The main electrical connector was a real problem to get undone since I could only reach it with one hand, but finally got it with a pair of water pump pliers while pushing on it with a long screwdriver. The hoses attached were easier once I figured out how to release them. From there it was pretty simple to replace the heater. I reprimed the pump tubes and pump and reassembled it with all the new orings and gaskets that come with the reservior kit. Then it was back to the driveway on my back to put it all back up into place. That went smoothly, filled it with fresh DEF, then down to the auto parts store to have them clear the code.

Praise the Lord, he answered my prayer and the code cleared! My back hurts, my shoulders hurt, my neck is so stiff i can barely move it, but I will heal. However this does brong up another daunting problem. Since I saved myself $900 I have to figure out what kind of new firearm I want.

Good news.

Tagged just in case.