Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Toyota mechanics, 22RE will not fire

1. Check to make sure resistance on the TPS is right.
2. Check ignitor and coil. I've seen them have spark, but also have a bad ignitor and vehicle wouldn't start.
3. Cold start injector may be bad.
4. Check IGF and NE signals. These are from the ignition and RPM input signal. ECU needs to be reading these before it will operate the injectors.
5. Make sure grounds are good to the ECM.
6. Familiarize yourself with the circuit opening relay, which relies on signal from the ignition switch and AFM. However, this controls the fuel pump and you state you are getting fuel. This is probably not the problem.

First, open your OBDI diagnostic port and put a jumper wire or paperclip between TE1 an E1. Get in the cab and turn the key on but don't start it, The CEL will start flashing a code. Count the flashes and then after the pause, count again. Million places on the net will give you the code. If there are no codes, check your grounds, it must have all 5 or it will not run. Also check your EFI fuse. Bet your EFI ground is either loose or broken. If you need help, PM me and I will send you my phone number. I am the proud owner of a 1990 Pickup that has been rebuilt from the ground up.

That's a REALLY good way to start a gas fire when gas sprays out of the plug hole. I've seen it happen.
Instead, pull the wire and use a screwdriver to jump it to the block while the plug is still screwed in.

Idaho Shooter, Try a magnum primer!!! Sorry, couldn't resist. memtb

Will it fire right up when you jump it?

If so, good chance it just needs a new battery.

BTDT.

I recently changed the spark plugs. We used one of the old plugs to check spark while the four new ones were still in the cylinder head.

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no, jumper cables, 200 amp rate charger/starter, or towing, none of the above will fire the engine.

Bsa1917hunter and Ksmih, I hink you guys are getting to my problem.

I did check every fuse in the rig and none were open. The truck is at the shop now. I will see what they say.

The mechanic was talking about rebuilding the injectors. Hey wait a minute. It was running great and now it will not start, that is not a faulty injector. They did not all fail simultaneously while the ignition was turned off.

It has to be something stupid like a failed relay or a bad ground, but I did not have the instruments to find it.

I will have to google CEL to find out what and where it is.

ETA: Oh Duh, check engine light.

Been runnuig GM products too long with the "sevice engine soon" SES indicator.

majority of auto electrical problems are a bad ground

Stethoscope to listen to the injectors while cranking it is helpful, or a noid light to see if they're getting a pulse. Spark and fuel pressure won't make it run if the injectors aren't opening. Just a thought, but if the battery cable was loose, voltage spikes could have damaged the ECU. Hopefully not the case, but would account for no signal to the injectors.

Not a Toyota guru at all, but lots of vehicles use fusible links that are in the harness, some at the battery, others in line somewhere. A wiring schematic should show you their locations. Blown fusible links have stymied many techs, and will continue to do so..

You are getting a lot of suggestions here, some good & some just guessing.

If you have fuel pressure & compression & good spark and you have sprayed ether in the manifold properly...then it must start unless you have a clogged exhaust-which I doubt since you said it was previously purring-, or a washed (flooded) engine.

Amateur way to check components:

Spark - with a screwdriver to ground upon cranking must be steady and blue in color & arc minimum of 1/2" space.

Fuel pressure - remove line to rail, place in a bowl or can, have someone crank for 5-10 seconds & flow should stream steady & uninterrupted.

Compression - somewhere near 120#/cylinder for each of the four. If good, probably not flooded and timing chain not broken. However, chains can jump a tooth too! If suspect flooded engine, remove all plugs/ crank engine for 5 secs/ squirt a shot of motor oil in each cylinder/ replace plugs & restart.

My suggestion...check juice at each injector connection if everything else I said is ok. Someone cranks while you have test lamp on + side of disconnected injector connector. Bright blinking light on each should show. If no light, bad wiring or PCM. Pcm can blow if you originally jumped battery backwards (when you said terminal was loose).

Go over all these steps honestly again & you should find your problem easily.

Hope you do well. I'll try to check back after my bowhunting trip.

-Ken

I dont understand the motor running on ether, but have you checked the throttle position sensor?

Also, check to make sure the air intake hose to the throttle body is on. Mine will turn over but will not crank if the air hose is off the throttle body. Put the air hose back on and it cranks right up. Check the air tube coming from the air filter across to the throttle body.

I wish you could have waited before you sent it to the shop. Just got back from deer hunting last night and my son got his first deer so was worn out and didn't want to type. These motors are very easy to work on and troubleshoot and is why I have kept my 1990 and trust it to take me anywhere. The grounds that I remember off the top of my head are at the power steering pump,(EFI ground which is probably your problem) back of motor to fire wall, lower intake plenum, battery, lower passenger side of motor. They will not run without all the grounds. You need to learn how to jump your OBDI port so you can trouble shoot for yourself. You can use the port to trick the computer into all kinds of things.
These motors have weird nuances like heavy brake will cut the fuel pump off and shut the MAF gate, high idle will make the motor lope when brake applied. Bad TPS position will cause a lope between 2K and 2.5K RPM. I have dealt with all of it at one time or another.
If you plan on keeping it, let me know. There are certain things you can do to make life a lot easier on yourself like installing a LCE in line fuel pressure gauge.

It is not your injectors so don't let him charge you for a rebuild. They just don't all go bad at once and is something that degrades over time. If you ever need them rebuilt, remove them yourself and send them to Witch Hunter for rebuild and full pre work and post work flow charts.

Thanks, I will keep that in mind.

No ground on the ps pump, I have no power steering, nor AC, nor PW. She is as basic as could be had in 92.

I recently purchased this truck with 72k on the odometer. I got it to 75k before this trouble.

Yes, I intend to keep it. I drive 25 mi each way to work, and have just over six years to retirement. I am really expecting this Toyota to get me through.

Oh,and congrat to your son on his deer. That is a milestone to any father/son pair.

I got a used 1988 Toyota pickup with the 22RE engine. Beat the hell out of it for 5 years and then sold it. Big mistake .... I'm sure that truck is still working hard.

Checked the gas? Fill her up! 😜

Ksmith is hitting the nail on the head. It IS NOT the injectors. Don't let those guys rebuild them and find out it's not the problem. I've owned multitudes of 22R and 22RE's. I've worked on them and rebuilt them from the ground up too. Hell of a good engine and usually flawless for 300,000+ miles. I hope they find out it's something simple, so they don't charge you a ton for diagnostics. Good luck with it. Should be something that will make you laugh because it's so simple. I know it can be damn frustrating when it's like this though. Reminds me of my 2004 GMC when the 4x4 wasn't working right. You probably know that scenario too since you said you deal with GM's... It's amazing what a single ground wire will do to a computer system on these newer vehicles...

Exactamundo. Good word of advice right there...