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Incidentally, I am parked in my big rig in San Antonio, have a load of Bridgestone tires.
Tomorrow morning will deliver to the big Toyota plant.

Every Tacoma in North America is built at this plant.
Every Tundra in the world is built here.

GB1

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Originally Posted by KSMITH
I wish you could have waited before you sent it to the shop. Just got back from deer hunting last night and my son got his first deer so was worn out and didn't want to type. These motors are very easy to work on and troubleshoot and is why I have kept my 1990 and trust it to take me anywhere. The grounds that I remember off the top of my head are at the power steering pump,(EFI ground which is probably your problem) back of motor to fire wall, lower intake plenum, battery, lower passenger side of motor. They will not run without all the grounds. You need to learn how to jump your OBDI port so you can trouble shoot for yourself. You can use the port to trick the computer into all kinds of things.
These motors have weird nuances like heavy brake will cut the fuel pump off and shut the MAF gate, high idle will make the motor lope when brake applied. Bad TPS position will cause a lope between 2K and 2.5K RPM. I have dealt with all of it at one time or another.
If you plan on keeping it, let me know. There are certain things you can do to make life a lot easier on yourself like installing a LCE in line fuel pressure gauge.


You left out plugged EGR valve too brother. Those go bad and you get a weird surge. Almost like the bad TPS. These engines are known to run lean too. I always adjust the AFM MAF gear too, so the engine runs a little better. It helps when you go bigger cam and valves for more air/fuel ratio/flow....


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Tell me more about bigger cam and valves. I would like to pump the motor to 120 hp instead of the rated 105 hp without using a turbo. I have a spare 22RE from an 82 Celica to work with while I drive the truck.

Or I have heard that the new 2.7 from the Tacoma is a plug and play replacement for the 22RE, and it is rated at 150 hp with a stronger torque curve. Any thoughts?


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Look up enginbuilder. He grinds one that I've used in a few 22RE's. It's the 270/430 I believe. I also used the proflow (now referred to as the PRO street/RV performance head from EPN) performance head with oversized stainless valves and larger ports, decked the block and bored it 30 over (you don't want to go more than 40 over because it leaves the cylinder walls too thin), a northwest offroad header, which is one of the best headers I've used on these 22RE engines. This engine loved to be revved up... cool I'm not a mechanic, I just like tinkering on stuff. Here's a 318 that thought it was a 340... wink. Well, in all fairness, it had a lot of 340 parts in it... laugh

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

I also did the body work and paint on this old beast:
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

My Toyota pics were on a different computer and never got saved.... cry


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Thanks for the information!

That is a fine looking old Dodge. I am envious.

My main ride around here for about ten years was a 75 w200 with a 440, 727, 4.10 gears, and full time 4x4. It was a stump puller.


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Maybe the fuel pump took a dump? Pressure at the rail doesn't necessarily mean you have enough pressure to really push the injectors.


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If its got good fire and you tried starting fluid, Its out of time. Is it computer controlled ignition?

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Have you checked to see if your rotor is pointing at the #1 terminal on your distributor?
Crank your engine by hand until the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, your rotor will point to the terminal if your timing chain is ok
youtube for directions, good luck.

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The engine ran fine, you changed the plugs and now it doesn't run. So everything plug related would be the first place I'd look. I've actually see this before where the clips inside the plug boot are so loose that they fail to make good contact with the spark plug. Grab a plug boot on a plug and wiggle it around. Does it feel tight? Can you feel a looseness of the clip inside the boot in relation to the plug? Time for new plug wires. Also, in handling your spark plug wires you may have increased the ohms resistance of the wire. Check with a volt/ohm meter (cheap to buy) and see if this isn't your problem. Here's how to check them - Click Here

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I aint no mechanic but your problem sounds very close
to a problem I hada decade ago with my old
Chevy S-10 4X4 V-6 throttle body fuel injection.
I have drove only Toyotas for YEARS then got
a wild hair up my butt and bought the little
chevy cheap ! LOW miles under 30 K no AC or radio
just a plain 4X4 for daily driver and hunting.
Right after it started exactly what yours is doing
now!
My mechanic was replacing the O-2 sensor.Map Sensor
every other month!
It would run alright for a little while then the check engine lite would pop on and it would not fire or
stranger still would run but not idle at all!
I had to slip the clutch and rev the hell out of it
red light to red light.
I bought 7 different computers from the parts house
to replace the factory computer that came on it!
A Chevy factory rep told me finally told me after all
this that it must be a dead short in the wiring SOME WHERE
in the body and I would have to pay them for a frame off
search to find it.
Sold the sum bitch at a LOSS to junk yard next day!
Then drove over 300 miles from Alabama to Tenn.
to buy a 2002 Tacoma 4X4 2.7 4 cyl. reg cab auto air
with 37 K never off road!


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Originally Posted by walt501
The engine ran fine, you changed the plugs and now it doesn't run. So everything plug related would be the first place I'd look. I've actually see this before where the clips inside the plug boot are so loose that they fail to make good contact with the spark plug. Grab a plug boot on a plug and wiggle it around. Does it feel tight? Can you feel a looseness of the clip inside the boot in relation to the plug? Time for new plug wires. Also, in handling your spark plug wires you may have increased the ohms resistance of the wire. Check with a volt/ohm meter (cheap to buy) and see if this isn't your problem. Here's how to check them - Click Here


Thanks Walt.

But no, that ain't it. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor about ten days before it died, and drove it every day in between.

My issues all began with a faulty battery connection, and continued after I repaired the battery cable.


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Originally Posted by Idaho_Shooter
Originally Posted by walt501
The engine ran fine, you changed the plugs and now it doesn't run. So everything plug related would be the first place I'd look. I've actually see this before where the clips inside the plug boot are so loose that they fail to make good contact with the spark plug. Grab a plug boot on a plug and wiggle it around. Does it feel tight? Can you feel a looseness of the clip inside the boot in relation to the plug? Time for new plug wires. Also, in handling your spark plug wires you may have increased the ohms resistance of the wire. Check with a volt/ohm meter (cheap to buy) and see if this isn't your problem. Here's how to check them - Click Here


Thanks Walt.

But no, that ain't it. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor about ten days before it died, and drove it every day in between.

My issues all began with a faulty battery connection, and continued after I repaired the battery cable.


The battery is located next to the air hose that goes into the throttle body (on my 92 toyota). On my truck, that rubber? connecting piece is coming apart and the clamp will not hold it on the throttle body very well. If it slips off, the truck will try to crank, but wont. Put the hose back on the throttle body and it cranks. The hose, about 2.5" in diameter, doesnt have to be completely removed. It can look like its on, but its not, and that is enough to cause it not to crank.

Is there any chance that you bumped this connection and a rotten/deteriorated hose broke loose from the throttle body?


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Watching this thread, I've seen good suggestions given from a batch of well informed forum members....

My 4 Runner is an 88, with the 22 RE...

Don't know if you drive in real dusty or dirty conditions, but I have seen where some of those hoses going from the air filter box, over to the plenum ( SP?) for the fuel injection are possibly plugged with dirt, from over time...

I've seen where that will allow an engine to crank, but not fire and it is not breathing...an air flow issue....

years ago, had a friend, who had a Mazda that was doing the same thing....this was a really dumb thing when it was finally found the reason why....

He had parked it low on gas.... somehow a piece of paper had managed to get itself in the fuel tank...floating in the bottom on the tank, as soon as it was cranked... it would start for a second or two and then stall...

The fuel pump started pumping and it would suck the piece of paper right into the beginning of the fuel line to the engine....and clog the line...

turn it off and it would allow the paper to float around the bottom of the tank....but would suck it right back there once again when trying to start it..

even putting more fuel in the tank, that piece of paper kept floating around the bottom of the tank.. and would just stall the engine once again... after driving it a few miles...

I am sure whatever the problem is, once found, is something pretty darn simple yet hard to find..

we were working on a kid's 86 4 Runner over at the college and he was having the same issue.... when they found out what it was ( I wasn't present).. it turned out to be a loose wire down in that plumbing below the fuel injection.

best of luck...

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I have had "new" rotors fail. Worked fine for a few days, then nothing. It was a bad rotor.

I don't know how you can check that, but if you still have the old rotor you can try swapping it out.



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Originally Posted by Idaho_Shooter


But no, that ain't it. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor about ten days before it died, and drove it every day in between.

My issues all began with a faulty battery connection, and continued after I repaired the battery cable.


This is just a shot in the dark, but my first instinct would be to completely disconnect the battery...then reconnect...

I know some vehicles throw codes when an electrical problem presents itself and the computer won't reset until it's completely disconnected...


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Older Toyotas are very prone to grounding issues ? I had a bad ground on an 86 Four Runner it would start then the gauges would go wackey and die. Also ECM or main circuit breaker?

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Some great suggestions. We were all over the air intake system. It is mechanically intact. It has to be, as the mass air flow sensor triggers the fuel pump to run.

One can manually open the flapper valve/sensor in the MAF to check for fuel flow at the fuel rail. But I did not have a pressure gauge. Fuel pressure is the first thing I asked the shop to check.

But I have not heard a word from the mechanic yet. Friday will be two weeks since I dropped the truck off.

Color me starting to get a bit impatient?


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Did this toyota problem get resolved?

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Am wondering too.


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Which explains a lot.
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Not yet. As of 10/30/16, the shop had isolated the issue to injectors not pulsing.

Well, duhh. That is what I told the mechanic when I dropped the truck off on the fifteenth.

Anxiously awaiting an update!


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