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Hello Gentlemen, I have an issue mounting scope on my Voere 2165 rifle. This is a classic Mauser-action hunting rifle in 300 Weatherby. I ordered high-quality detachable mounts specifically for this rifle from EAW in Germany. The scope I am trying to mount is Swarovski PV 1.5-6X42, 30mm tube. This is a classic scope made in the same country as the rifle itself so I figured it would be a good match. The problem I am facing is typical of Mauser rifles: the bolt handle lift angle is high and the bolt does not clear the scope's ocular (see pictures). The amount of clearance needed is probably only 2mm or less: I can make the bolt clear the ocular if I mount the scope a little bit more forward. Alternatively, if I adjust the windage screw on the rear mount, it will shift the ocular slightly to the left and the scope will clear. None of the above is really satisfactory so I am reaching out to the campfire members to find a better solution. Here are some thoughts: a) Give the bolt to a gunsmith and ask him to bend the handle a little more so the bolt will clear the ocular. b) Use a file and file away portion of the round bolt handle. ? I appreciate your thoughts and recommendations. -Omid
Last edited by Omid; 10/29/16.
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Take the bolt to a machine shop and have them flatten the ball on the bolt. If two mill will clear take off four!
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Joined: Sep 2012
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Hello Heym06, Thank you for the advice but I think cutting off the top side of the bolt handle will make the gun ugly. I have seen some Mauser rifles (e.g. FN/Browning) that have a flat bolt handle on the bottom side but even that is not very pretty. If I decide to re-shape the bolt handle, I would have to flatten both sides of the knob and have it checkered. Is there a way that I can slightly bend the bolt myself without the need for specific tools and equipment? For example, can I heat the handle using on kitchen stove (gas) and hammer it a bit? Thanks, -Omid PS. Your ID suggests you own/like Heym rifles. I have a Heym SR30 myself:
Last edited by Omid; 10/30/16.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 31,969
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I'd put the bolt body in a heat sink, heat the bolt shaft with acetylene torch and bend it. Acetylene because it is hot and fast heating, minimizing heat transfer to the rest of the bolt- hence heat sink also. Take about 10 minutes for the job. If you can't, take it to a gunsmith, welder, or machine shop..
The only true cost of having a dog is its death.
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If this was my rifle, I would just use higher mounts. Check with the EAW dealer to see if you can exchange the ones you have for the next higher height.
Your post on bending the bolt handle with heat from a kitchen stove plus hits with a hammer is just plain scary.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Yeah - I was going to add a part about higher mounts but forgot.
Short-term something or something.
The only true cost of having a dog is its death.
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Here is a different take on it.
From your pictures the scope appears to mounted quite high, have you considered lower mounts? It looks as though you could have the clearance necessary by using them. They may not have the aesthetics you want but it may be an easier solution.
Otherwise take it to a good gunsmith and have the handle bent to obtain the needed clearance. drover
223 Rem, my favorite cartridge - you can't argue with truckloads of dead PD's and gophers.
24hourcampfire.com - The site where there is a problem for every solution.
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Thank you for the ideas. I might have actually solved the problem: looking at the Heym rifle picture that I posted here in this thread, I realized that the zoom ring of the Schmidt and Bender scope on that rifle is recessed. I took the scope and measured its ocular diameter and it was a bit less than the Swarovski scope. So, I decided to switch the scopes! The Schmidt and Bender Scope fits well and after some adjustments to the windage screw on the rear base, the bolt handle does clear the ocular! Hopefully I can zero the rifle and this will solve the problem.
If the windage shift is too much and I can not zero the rifle, I think I would give the bolt to a gunsmith and have him professionally bend it.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I'd put the bolt body in a heat sink, heat the bolt shaft with acetylene torch and bend it. Acetylene because it is hot and fast heating, minimizing heat transfer to the rest of the bolt- hence heat sink also. Take about 10 minutes for the job. If you can't, take it to a gunsmith, welder, or machine shop.. That's what I'd do, if it were mine. That bolt knob sticks out like a sore thumb right now. Bend the sob down and then go with and even lower set of rings...JMHO..
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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OK, here is my latest report on this rifle: First, I switched its original scope (Swarovski) with the Schmidt and Bender scope which I had on my Heym rifle. (The scope on Heym has been on that rifle since 2002). This solved the problem of clearance! The bolt handle now has about 1mm of clearance and can be worked out easily. Next, I wanted to see if my windage is OK or if I had moved the rear base too much to the side. So, I purchased a Bore Sighter and tested the position of the reticle with respect the barrel axis. It turns out that the windage is good and the scope is looking parallel (in the horizontal direction) to the axis of the barrel. Then I observed a new problem: The elevation setting of the mount system is not right: The scope is looking about 20 MOA down when compared to the axis of the barrel. This is too much to compensate using the elevation adjustment of the rifle-scope. The elevation knob would need to turn to the maximum and this not good. Why is the elevation not right? The rings/bases were specifically designed for this rifle. Do Mauser actions have such variation in production? Thank you, -Omid
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