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Bugger Offline OP
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I asked this on the gunsmith forum but received no answers.

I'm currently finishing a walnut stock.

While I've been finishing my rifle stocks in tung oil, linseed oil, Truoil, I read that these are poor choices. What's the best finish to use?

I don't often hunt in the rain, but do at times. I also don't hunt much in negative 20 degrees or lower but sometimes do.

I'm probably over cautious when hunting and most of the dings are from the safe.
So what finish should I use? I like the oil finish look btw.

Thanks!


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Custom Pro Oil from Brownells is a Tung oil/urethane product that works great. It's slow drying, so I use Tru-oil for in between coats.

This Boyd Jon Sundra birch laminated stock was finished that way, using Fiebings dark brown leather dye to color the finish NOT the wood. I learned that process from a master stock maker who worked at Fajen's back in the day, has since been self-employed for years.

This finish is super tough, has stood the test of time. This gun has been hunted for at least 8 years, has killed several NM pronghorns, a bunch of WT's and hogs. And still looks good; I've never touched up the finish.

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If you want a beautiful satin finish use Dailys Seafin Teak oil. Easy to apply, wipe on with a rag, let sit 10-15 min. then wipe excess and repeat multiple times after each 12-24 hour drying period. The stuff is formulated for use on boats' bright work ie exposed wood so lasts a long time. Also contains UV inhibitors.


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Dirtfarmer,

I assume that you added the liquid leather dye to the liquid Custom Pro Oil before application.

I looked up Fiebing's Leather Dye and I see it comes in both an alcohol-based formula and a water-based formula. I assume that you used the alcohol-based formula. Am I correct?

Thanks for the info. I really like the looks of your rifle.

Also, did you apply that to bare wood, or over an existing finish?

Last edited by nifty-two-fifty; 11/26/16.

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The only time I mixed it was to work on the checkering, using a tooth brush.

I soak Pro Oil into the raw, perfectly prepped wood, 400 grit wet sanding until forming a slurry. As it gets thick, I wipe cross grain and allow it to dry 24 hrs. Did that twice.

I then applied around 8-10 Tru Oil coats, 4-0 steel wool between coats to fully fill the pores. Tru Oil dries faster, speeds up the process.

Then I lightly coated the dry finish with alcohol based Fiebings, allowing it to dry (doesn't take long). Use a glove, it will stain your skin. I then apply Pro Oil, wiping with a single layer blue shop towel. A couple of those and it's done.

I clamp a large punch, vertical, in a vice to use as a pivot for the stock, using the front action screw hole. I can swing it around without touching the finish, can carefully flip it over, grasping the screw I put in the front sling swivel hole and gripping the taped pad.

It takes some practice with the Fiebings, but works well. Fiebings has to be applied to the dry finish, not the raw wood. The final coats of Pro Oil cover the Fiebings. Pro Oil is tougher/harder than Tru-Oil. Brownells has it.

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Dirtfarmer,

Thanks for the details. You got good results.


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It's hard to cover everything in one post.

PM me with anything I failed to cover or if you have a question. I take no credit, give it all the the guy who taught me. He is world renoun, working on H&H, Purdy and other high end guns, accomplished with metal and wood. His work is breathtaking.

The blue shop towel trick may be the slickest technique of anything I mentioned. The finish looks hand rubbed, but isn't.

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Marine Spar Varnish, properly buffed.

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That's all I've used for quite a few years now.


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I generally use Acraglas on the inside and tung oil outside. I don't see much rain, however.


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Originally Posted by TBREW401
Marine Spar Varnish, properly buffed.

Would appreciate details on application, how you buff, etc.

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Buff with 0000 steel wool when allowed to properly dry.
Apply with a soft brush or a foam brush, with the grain in light coats. Stir the can every time you go with the brush.
I use at least three coats.

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Buff with 0000 steel wool when allowed to properly dry.
Apply with a soft brush or a foam brush, with the grain in light coats. Stir the can every time you go with the brush.
I use at least three coats, allowing drying time between.

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Originally Posted by Bugger
I asked this on the gunsmith forum but received no answers.

I'm currently finishing a walnut stock.

While I've been finishing my rifle stocks in tung oil, linseed oil, Truoil, I read that these are poor choices. What's the best finish to use?

I don't often hunt in the rain, but do at times. I also don't hunt much in negative 20 degrees or lower but sometimes do.

I'm probably over cautious when hunting and most of the dings are from the safe.
So what finish should I use? I like the oil finish look btw.

Thanks!

Everybody has their own method , I'm like you and like oil finishes, easy to fix too when a scratch appears. I used to use try oil but stopped because for me it dried too fast .. Now I use 70/20 tung and linseed mix. Works for me and no problem with the weather .


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No point in mixing tung oil and linseed oil. They have nearly identical properties, and as such are often used interchangeably by the folks who make wood finishing products. Anything to the contrary is urban myth.

Repairing a scratch on a stock that was finished with oil is as time consuming and laborious as repairing a scratch in a barrier finish, if done so as to be perfectly invisible. No real advantage to an oil finish in that regard.

I've been doing stock work for 40 years, and believe me when I say I tried what seemingly is every stock finish known to man. (Said half in jest- no one can try them all.) Inserted into that experience was a half lifetime career as a yacht carpenter- which will teach a guy a lot about weather impermeable finishes. From all that, I've taken away a couple basic observations: oil finishes are warm, pleasing, and certainly apropos for a gun that will spend its life being admired a lot, shot occasionally, and hunted with in fair weather. If you want real protection from the elements, on a gun that will see use in all manner of environments, nothing beats a barrier finish (or better yet, a synthetic stock).

Anymore, I just do a barrier finish. My finish of choice is straight spar varnish. If done properly it can be as aesthetically pleasing as a "hand rubbed oil finish" and provide great protection from water fenestration (although no finish is perfect in that regard). No matter what approach one takes, finishing a stock is a time consuming proposition. Figure at least as much time to finish a project as it took to build it, and often much more. There are no shortcuts or magic formulae in this game if you wish for a world class finish.

A properly applied varnish finish, consisting of maybe 10 coats block sanded between coats, rubbed out at the end and finally waxed can fool laymen into believing they are holding a supremely well done "oil finished" stock. Example:

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Custom Savage 1899 I recently built (.22 Hi Power takedown). Ten coats spar varnish.

Stock finishing opinions are like a**holes- everybody has one. It's just that so many guys fail to investigate the science involved or conduct their own experiments, relying instead on myth, old wive's tales, advertising claims, and advice handed down by Pappy (originally based upon same).

Last thought: Many say that gun companies and government arsenals used oil finishes since forever and they held up just fine. Remember though, those folks employed oil finishes not because they were the very best available but because they were quick and cheap.


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I started using spar varnish about 30 years ago, after getting to know many of the top professional stockmakers in the business and finding they used it almost universally. They were also kind enough to explain why, and the reasons are the same you just listed, with a couple of other minor details.


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Someone on here awhile back mentioned he used the Mr. Clean Magic Erasers to buff out a stock for reducing the gloss


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
No point in mixing tung oil and linseed oil. They have nearly identical properties, and as such are often used interchangeably by the folks who make wood finishing products. Anything to the contrary is urban myth.

Repairing a scratch on a stock that was finished with oil is as time consuming and laborious as repairing a scratch in a barrier finish, if done so as to be perfectly invisible. No real advantage to an oil finish in that regard.

I've been doing stock work for 40 years, and believe me when I say I tried what seemingly is every stock finish known to man. (Said half in jest- no one can try them all.) Inserted into that experience was a half lifetime career as a yacht carpenter- which will teach a guy a lot about weather impermeable finishes. From all that, I've taken away a couple basic observations: oil finishes are warm, pleasing, and certainly apropos for a gun that will spend its life being admired a lot, shot occasionally, and hunted with in fair weather. If you want real protection from the elements, on a gun that will see use in all manner of environments, nothing beats a barrier finish (or better yet, a synthetic stock).

Anymore, I just do a barrier finish. My finish of choice is straight spar varnish. If done properly it can be as aesthetically pleasing as a "hand rubbed oil finish" and provide great protection from water fenestration (although no finish is perfect in that regard). No matter what approach one takes, finishing a stock is a time consuming proposition. Figure at least as much time to finish a project as it took to build it, and often much more. There are no shortcuts or magic formulae in this game if you wish for a world class finish.

A properly applied varnish finish, consisting of maybe 10 coats block sanded between coats, rubbed out at the end and finally waxed can fool laymen into believing they are holding a supremely well done "oil finished" stock. Example:

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Custom Savage 1899 I recently built (.22 Hi Power takedown). Ten coats spar varnish.

Stock finishing opinions are like a**holes- everybody has one. It's just that so many guys fail to investigate the science involved or conduct their own experiments, relying instead on myth, old wive's tales, advertising claims, and advice handed down by Pappy (originally based upon same).

Last thought: Many say that gun companies and government arsenals used oil finishes since forever and they held up just fine. Remember though, those folks employed oil finishes not because they were the very best available but because they were quick and cheap.


Nice job and not to hijack the thread, but how about a few details re: the custom Hi-power?


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Yeah, I saw that about those erasers and ran out and bought some. I didn't care for them as they were a little too fine of a "grit".

Details re: the above rifle. I bought the bare rusty receiver at a gun show for a pittance.
[Linked Image]
After lots of filing and abrasives backed by elbow grease it became what you see. Parts were accumulated from a myriad of sources, a minty barrel was found, some nice straight grained walnut came my way (but the fore arm is a factory original). Everything slowly came together, and she will put 5 into 1/2" at 50, 1 1/4- 1 1/2 at 100. Grip cap is solid ebony- I like the round knob look, especially with a schnabel fore end. All the steel bits I rust blued myself.

I got a factory letter based upon the serial number on the receiver, and lo-and-behold it had started out life as a .22 Hi Power originally, in November 1913. Kismet that I had made it into a .22HP myself.

Last edited by gnoahhh; 11/30/16.

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