Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots Seeking information on Pre-Warning No. 1

Went to my friend's pawn shop today and he had a No. 1 in a 7 Rem Mag. Wood showed age as this is a gun that has been used and not sat in a safe since '75, it's date of birth. Here's the real rub, the barrel has been cut off to, I'm guessing, 20-22". The wood is not spectacular as some of the early ones were, but I'm ok with it. The barrel is a heavier barrel than the ones I have owned in the past and the forearm stock reflects that it is larger. Without seeing it, can anyone tell me what contour I might be looking at? It is not as big of a barrel as a Varmint I don't think and can't imagine anyone making a Varmint barrel in 7 Mag.

Here's my questions. With so-so wood, cut-off barrel, what would the gun be worth-ballpark figure. And, approximately what would be the cost to have it re-barreled. And finally, what other calibers would work with that caliber set-up. Would it have to be a larger caliber or a magnum? Any help would be appreciated. And if someone can give me the website of a Smith that re-barrels the No. 1's, I would appreciate that as well. I really want the gun, but not if it is not worth anything. Thanks-Eddie

Any belted magnum will work without action modification. Barrel prices vary widely. Find a gunsmith and ask about pricing. SSK will do it but won't be cheap.

I'd not give over $500, and maybe not that.

Price it like you're buying a stock and action. Maybe $400 and a cheap scope you have lying around...

Ruger did actually make a No. 1V (varmint) in 7mm Magnum, as well as in 300 Win. Mag.. This was back when 1000 yard shooting and silhouette were all the rage.
If the rifle has the quarter rib, it was a 1B (assuming it has the semi-beavertail forearm), if it has two separate bases for Ruger rings, it's a 1V.

By the time you buy this rifle and have it rebarreled, you'd be better off just finding a good used No.1 that hasn't been ruined. If you want a caliber that Ruger didn't chamber, then that's a different story. BTW, any Ruger No.1 action can be rebarreled to any other caliber; all you need to do is change the extractor/ejector if it's for a different head size.

^^^^ Yep, that. I owned a Ruger #1V in .300 Win Mag for a short while. It was a real accurate gun if you could maintain precise barrel temperature but it'd string over 12 MOA vertically as the barrel heated.

I, too, would suggest passing on it unless the particular configuration the OP wants was either never made or is impossible to find. Figuring $350 for a good barrel, assuming my gunsmith would install for $250, then $400 is about the top end I'd be willing to pay.

Thanks gentlemen. That's interesting that it would be a Varmint. Had no idea they made them in the magnums. Pretty sure I would get it for around the $400. But I have no use or desire for a Varmint rifle. Sounds like all I would end up using would be the action. The only caliber on my radar I would like to have in a No. 1 at this time would be a 284 Win. Thanks again...I'll have to think about it but at this time probably won't get it.

A no.1 action is a no.1 action. The only action update to another caliber is the ejector in the action which is a 10 dollar part handed to you. Changing ejectors is not a big deal even for me.

Stocks are stocks as far as I know. The forearms vary in design per model. Certain Shilen standard tapers will fit the B and A models nicely if you pay attention to the shank dimensions at the time of threading/chambering.

One of the nice things about the no.1 action is that it can do most any caliber with only perhaps an ejector swapout(non controlled part). No.1's with a few touches can become rimfire variants if that is in the cards. Most donors will only require the ejector to be able to handle the new case action wise.

The rebarreling of the no.1 action is not so much in the barrel blank, as it is in the labor to do the threading, ejector slot timing, scope mounts, iron sights(if required).

I buy complete no.1's in the 500-700 range; so an incomplete sorta speak is worth less, but still probably will touch 500 with nice wood. I fell off the wagon on an early nice complete no.1 with vertical rings for 700; pretty foolish but what is done is done. Has been a good 17 Bumble Bee donor; so cannot complain too much.

Finding another forend for a different taper is a possibility on secondary sources, a bit harder to get a close match(color/figure) if you are particular about such..

Labor is the expense really on refurbing a No.1, there are smiths and then there are smiths. Some will not touch a no.1 or a pre64 model 70 because of time at the machines; but not to say there are a lot out there that will. Might google no.1 gunsmith and see what shows up locally and go from there if nothing else shows up on this thread. I do my own work, so have not fussed with other guys doing work for me for a long time.

I suspect and only that, the action has a three screw trigger in it(unless obviously aftermarket like a Canjar etc); only way to know for sure is to visually inspect the action with the stock removed and see the sear engagement screw being present.

A no.1 can become whatever you want within earthly reason, but as you noted, the numbers can get large if not controlled.

Best Ruger No.1 gunsmith- Steve Durren of Johnsons Guns. Specialist in the No.1!