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One of my Christmas gifts was Jerry Kuhnhausen's Mauser shop manual. The section concerning drilling the action for scope bases states the "safe areas" are 1) after the rear of the action where the bolt lugs engage and before the C/H ring and 2) beyond the ring in there area threaded for the barrel. He says not to drill into the ring or the rear of the action. I've seen several 98's drilled exactly where he says not to D&T.
Any real world problems with actions D&T outside of the area Kuhnhausen suggests? If there are problems will filling the holes make any difference?
Thanks,
Scott
Last edited by SWJ; 01/11/17.
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Campfire Ranger
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I would think the issue would be one of having a sufficient number or threads engaged by the scope base screw and the scope base screws not interfering with the movement of the bolt more than a structural issue. I don't have the manual with me so can't say for sure I'm properly picturing the no/go areas. Also if I'm reading you right he's suggesting not drilling the action for a rear scope base?
I've d/t'd a 96 and a few 98's and haven't had any issues.
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Campfire Outfitter
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I just got the drilling jig and rock on.
Some folks don't like to drill all the way through the barrel threads but i have not seen a problem.
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Campfire Kahuna
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Some folks don't like to drill all the way through the barrel threads but i have not seen a problem. Drilling all the way through the barrel threads will ruin the chamber. I have a feeling you meant to say, 'all the way through TO the barrel threads..
Ex- USN (SS) '66-'69 Pro-Constitution. LET'S GO BRANDON!!!
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Campfire Tracker
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Get a one piece base and use it as a drill jig. I have seen more than one drilled wrong using the drill jigs offered.
+Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild
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How about a picture!
Last edited by SWJ; 01/11/17.
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Campfire Tracker
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Get a one piece base and use it as a drill jig. I have seen more than one drilled wrong using the drill jigs offered. I doubt if someone who can't properly use a drilling jig could do any better using a one-piece mount. I've done it both ways.
"Live like you'll die tomorrow, but manage your grass like you'll live forever." -S. M. Stirling
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All, thanks for the input.
My question isn't how-to because I am one of those people Theo referenced.
My questions are:
Do you agree with the recommended drilling sites?
If you do agree, what are the real world problems if the receiver lugs and C-ring are drilled into?
Should the holes be filled and the receiver re-drilled in the proper location or is it not really a problem?
thanks!
Scott
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Campfire Tracker
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If the holes are drilled wrong, the receiver could be junk and/or the scope bases would not be in correct alignment. Once phuqued up you can't weld the front ring and do a satisfactory job.
Send it to me and I will do it for you if you wish
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A good case of paying a pro very little, as opposed to f'ing it up, all by yourself.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
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Agreed Dillonbuck
Jkob - Nothing to send now. I have been looking for a Model 98 Husqvarna and alot of them are D&T. Some of the jobs look okay, some not so good. Just trying to gauge how big a pile I could be stepping into if I bought one that was not D&T correctly.
Thanks
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Proper procedure is to drill the rear hole ahead of the locking lug seat and the front hole into the barrel threads. Drilling into the area behind the locking lug seat is incorrect but most of those drilled and tapped in Sweden seem to be done this way. Truthfully, if the hole is drilled well behind the contact surface, the integrity of the receiver is probably not hurt too badly but it is still wrong. GD
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