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Joined: Aug 2004
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Campfire Kahuna
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laugh

Thankee, Kindly!


Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla!
GB1

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Charlie Sisk once said someone repaired a leaking radiator in a tractor with Accraglass...

Be curious if it would work on a poly tank and likely, you have some around....


Me



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Poly's slick stuff. There may be some epoxies that stick to it, but you're much better off using a welder. I got a basic welder with fillers from Urethane Supply company. I've used it for repairing a fuel tank, body parts on a snowmobile and fenders on my boat trailer.

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Originally Posted by 458 Lott
Poly's slick stuff. There may be some epoxies that stick to it, but you're much better off using a welder. I got a basic welder with fillers from Urethane Supply company. I've used it for repairing a fuel tank, body parts on a snowmobile and fenders on my boat trailer.


Agree 110 %

Some of the potable water tanks are joined with ultrasonic welding and to date have defeated my every effort to get a sound, long lived repair,...NOTHING will stick to em'. Robbing a non critical part, and hot knifing a patch has worked a time or two.

I do think the fuel tanks are a little more forgiving , but you need one of the classic "Hi-Solv" plastic welders that will get an "Etch" right off the bat,...the stuff they "Ban" in Kalifornicatia.

Watch the fumes, or lose brain and liver function.

GTC


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-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain





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Originally Posted by crossfireoops
Without a pilot hole, it's more than likely that down line one will find stress cracks radiating outward from around the liberal's suggested FUBAR.

I think the one he wrote about scopes not needing to be level was the prime classic though. Perhaps he wrote that for his MM degree thesis.

A "self-tapping screw" drills it's own pilot hole.

You should stick to things you know about, like drinking and acting like an ass.


One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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To SMALL a pilot hole,...for some densities of plastic,....and WILL cause radial stress cracks.

Folks, don't mistake plastic for sheet metal, they have pretty unique and individual mechanical characteristics and properties.

GTC


Member, Clan of the Border Rats
-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain





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Cross, don't ask him how to fix a crack in cast iron. I bet it doesn't start with drilling a hole

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Originally Posted by blanket
Cross, don't ask him how to fix a crack in cast iron. I bet it doesn't start with drilling a hole

You'd lose that bet.

Some want to nitpick over the size of a hole by acting like a big A-hole.


One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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I have a 2500 gallon plastic tank on my water truck. It cracked in a couple places near the top. Got one of those plastic welding kits with the plastic rod. Drilled a hole at each end of the crack and welded it up per the instructions. Didn't work worth a schidt. Crack opened up again. Wouldn't recommend that solution to anyone except a liberal!

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If the plastic is degraded due to UV exposure the welding isn't going to be a solution. Just like a rusted out steel tank can't be made right by burning rods.

IC B3

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Originally Posted by 45_100
I have a 2500 gallon plastic tank on my water truck. It cracked in a couple places near the top. Got one of those plastic welding kits with the plastic rod. Drilled a hole at each end of the crack and welded it up per the instructions. Didn't work worth a schidt. Crack opened up again. Wouldn't recommend that solution to anyone except a liberal!


Don, did you ever get that thing patched ?

Got some stuff here that sticks like the proverbial schidt to a blanket,...and most ANY plastic,...until I tried patching the potable water tank out of a gal friends live aboard slant.

I did come up with a method of patching it,...but gonna keep it under my old beat up hat.

GTC


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-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain





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Never did get the tank fixed. I just don't fill it up all the way.
The cracks could be from UV. We have some of that here in Arizona but they started less than a year after I got it. Have a feeling it is due to the way I strapped it down to the bed of the truck.

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That tank is likely hdpe. Look into fusion for hdpe. It bonds around 400*f. If using a plastic welder on plastic that can "heat sink" due to its mass, throw some heat at it before the weld.


Originally Posted by BrentD

I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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As of now the problem solved itself.

Not leaking anymore. I suspect that the wood causing the small leak had sealed the hole to the point it's not even dripping.

I'll leave it be until it gets my attention again.


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Originally Posted by crossfireoops
Barry, rig up your shop vac so's to pull a vacuum in the tank (in other words, plug any vents) Duct tape, Saran Wrap, whatever.

THAN do your drilling and fit your sheet metal screw / plug.
You'll note that their will be little if any tendency for the plug to "weep".

Leave the vacuum on and CLEAN the repair area with acetone / MEK. Devcon Plastic Welder would be my first choice ,....BUT it doesn't always stick to every plastic,....ABS in particular.

Try the vacuum stunt next time you have to disconnect / change out a hose from a large tank or sump, and draining is just not an option.

GTC
Shop vac and gasoline is a deadly combination....unless they make an intrincly safe shop vac....

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I just had to check

http://www.tiger-vac.com/index.php/...f-and-g-combustibleconductive-dusts.html

Sure enough, there are vacuums for classified areas. I would hate to know how much they cost shocked

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Originally Posted by rainierrifleco
Originally Posted by crossfireoops
Barry, rig up your shop vac so's to pull a vacuum in the tank (in other words, plug any vents) Duct tape, Saran Wrap, whatever.

THAN do your drilling and fit your sheet metal screw / plug.
You'll note that their will be little if any tendency for the plug to "weep".

Leave the vacuum on and CLEAN the repair area with acetone / MEK. Devcon Plastic Welder would be my first choice ,....BUT it doesn't always stick to every plastic,....ABS in particular.

Try the vacuum stunt next time you have to disconnect / change out a hose from a large tank or sump, and draining is just not an option.

GTC
Shop vac and gasoline is a deadly combination....unless they make an intrincly safe shop vac....


W A T E R,...I believe that's what the tank discussed contained ?

Diesel ?,...No problems , thus far ( but point taken)

Hydraulic Sumps ?,...I'll continue doing it with plain old shop vacs.

Thanks for pointing out the Gasoline hazard !

GTC


Member, Clan of the Border Rats
-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain





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Plastic welder would get my vote. Those plastic tanks flex more than you'd think with varying amounts of fuel in them, and temp changes. Epoxies, unless they are equally supple,, would peel after a while.


To anger a conservative, lie to him. To annoy a liberal, tell him the truth.

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Fiber glass , pipe repair kit

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