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They are rarely as reliable as a Glock.

I wouldn't carry one for SD unless it was the only gun I ever carried and then only after a lot of practice.You don't want to forget the safety at a bad time.

They are heavy.

Good ones are expensive.

The trigger is the best feature.

They are the best looking pistol made.

The cool factor is off the charts with a really good one.

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Originally Posted by Armednfree
Cast bullets are cheaper and you'll never fire them fast enough to lead up the barrel to any degree.


Agreed.

I cast bullets for the 9mm, 38/.357mag, and the .44 Mag. Already have pick out my first mold for it. Seems the perfect gun for cast bullets.


You didn't use logic or reason to get into this opinion, I cannot use logic or reason to get you out of it.

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Originally Posted by ltppowell
1911s are fun and cool...like that chick in the White Snake video thirty years ago.
lmao amigo you've never seen me shoot one.


God bless Texas-----------------------
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I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull
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but where you put it !!
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Originally Posted by ltppowell
1911s are fun and cool...like that chick in the White Snake video thirty years ago.
Be advised: I shot my first 1911 over 30 years ago and [bleep] my first chick over 30 years ago...and she looked better than the Whitesnake broad. Thus far, I can still do both.

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Actually closer to 40 on the chick and 35 on the 1911.

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Originally Posted by ltppowell
1911s are fun and cool...like that chick in the White Snake video thirty years ago.


Ahhh Tawny Kitaen...


Ohm and shok-buffs are your friend:

http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Shok-Buff-Recoil-Buffers-1911-Package-of-6/productinfo/2B/

Dillon makes a knock-off version as well


Me solum relinquatis


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I use the Wilson shock buffs in a lot of my 1911's for practice. Especially the Delta Elite, .460 Rowlands and Lightweight Commanders . Using them and the lightest recoil springs that work in that gun is being nice to your prized piece. You do not need to hotrod your loads. No reason at all to do that.

Do not use the shock buffs in your CC guns. They can cause problems if they tear and jam things up. They are cheap and last longer than you would think. But inspect them every time you clean your gun.


Gun Shows are almost as comical as boat ramps in the Spring.
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Lubrication:

After cleaning.
I like Mil-Comm (NRA) TW25B on wear points or Tetra Grease on the slide/frame rail groves. Use very little Tetra. Dry moly can be used in dusty conditions. Then I wipe the gun down with Break Free Lubricant/Preservative. NOT Break Free CLP. Wipe it down a day later again with same.

I used to use RIG on the stainless guns, but the Tetra is better.

DO NOT let different lubricants get mixed up in the same spots.


After a periotic "Full Clean" that degreases the whole gun with Grip Panels off, I will use Spray Rem Oil inside the grip frame where all those little necessary parts reside. Shake out real well. Rem Oil has been proven to be a good protector for condensation type moisture.(bringing a cold gun into a warm place or body sweat).

But, there are a lot of good lubricant/protectants available as mentioned here in this thread already..




Gun Shows are almost as comical as boat ramps in the Spring.
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Any time I use grease on a firearm, like I do with my AR-15's, it's Mobil One synthetic bearing grease.

Any time you take these same grease's and put them in tiny packages for the gun people they charge a fortune. I bought 1 tub which will last beyond my lifetime for the same amount you would buy 1oz in a gun store. I load it in one of my syringes I took the needle off. The syringe is 3cc's and is still going after it's first loading two years now.


Last edited by Armednfree; 03/25/17.

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Tetra is so slick that in some mismatch's of recoil spring,loads, firing pin stop styles, slide mass and magazines springs that the slide velocity can be too fast to strip a round. A representative for Tetra told me that at a gun show. The gun has to be balanced mechanically .

But it works from -80F to over 400F. That is why I like it. So in all seasons, it has no effect on slide velocity.

Just do not use much. Just a little dab. A tube lasts a long time.

But in dusty conditions, like any other grease it accumulates filth. That is where you use Dry Moly. Great also for high pressure metallic contact areas. Tough stuff.


Gun Shows are almost as comical as boat ramps in the Spring.
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Originally Posted by jnyork
Originally Posted by antelope_sniper

What should I know about them that the new 1911 owner probably doesn't?







First thing you need to know is that every used 1911 must be thoroughly checked out by a competent, highly trained specialist before you can get your mitts on it.

I currently provide such a service free for members of this board. Just send it on out to me and I'll put it through its paces for a few years for you, will let you know as soon as I'm sure its OK to use. grin


The 1911 is one of the all-time classic handguns! It is reliable and dependable, and it is brilliantly designed. Just compare it to the complexity of contemporary handguns of the early 20th century! But this is also one of its' shortcomings; any idiot can disassemble and modify it to the point of being unsafe. YES, have any used 1911 (especially if it shows unprofessional work) checked out by someone competent.

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Competent is the key word there. I have used and studied and been around a lot of 1911's in my lifetime. There is a problem out there.
A lot of gunsmiths think and say they can fix/modify your 1911. Do the research if you want the work done. In my area, there is not a single gunsmith I would use.

Another rule of thumb when buying a used 1911. If the feed ramp is all nice and polished, give it back to the salesman. That goes for a lot of other brands also. That maybe is why they are for sale as used. Somebody sold it for some reason. Life is too short.


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This is another grease that works well on firearms. It is a teflon grease (PTFE).

[Linked Image]


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Yep

Should work.


Gun Shows are almost as comical as boat ramps in the Spring.
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Originally Posted by Gibby
Yep

Should work.



Go to the pharmacy at Walmart, ask for one of those baby oral syringes. I just thought of that as I was giving Kaiden his meds, should work good.

[Linked Image]

Last edited by Armednfree; 03/26/17.

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Here's a good book on the 1911 by Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat. You can get it from them or other sources like Brownell's. It covers assembly/disassembly, lube, etc.

http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Wilson-...e-Manual-by-Bill-Wilson/productinfo/401/


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Thanks all,

I appreciate all the great help and advise.

A have a new pound of W231 and Tightgroup, bullets, dies, and sized brass sitting on the loading table. Gun's all lubed and ready to got without a idiot scratch. With a little luck I may get a little more range time after work this week.

Thanks again.


You didn't use logic or reason to get into this opinion, I cannot use logic or reason to get you out of it.

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I will school you on the 1911.
My buddy and were driving across Mexico in 1978, and we ran a roadblock.
We got pulled over by a Mexican cop about a mile down the road. We were in a VW van and the cop had a Mustang so it wasn't much of a chase.

That cop did a bat-turn in front of us and aimed his headlights right at us, then he pointed his 1911 right at me, distance about 10 feet, and racked the slide.
That pistol is allegedly .45 caliber but I swear, that hole in the barrel looks about 4 inches wide when it is aimed at your head.

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I live in the antithesis of a "clean room", cough, cough.
Where can I get the "dry moly"?


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Originally Posted by mark shubert
Anyone care to add - where to lube, with how much, of what lubricant?
Seems I read an article, years back, making it simple.


Lube the shiny spots! smile

1911's are great fun. They are kinda like a 30-06 in that you can always find a way to out-spec them with another gun, but in the end, if you needed a handgun and what you had was a good 1911 you'd be in good shape.


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