Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire ? about enclosed trailers...

I built a few trailers for work this being the latest. It's been lifted 4" since the photo. We used it for a hunting trailer last fall in NV. Three guys, gear, one elk, no problem. One thing I like is ordering them 5' wide so I can see around them in traffic with whatever I'm pulling them with, even a Toyota. Sure makes getting around circle drives and tight spots easy. Also order them tall enough to walk in. This one was right at $4K, 5x14, extra height and a few options like long tongue and aluminum wheels and upgraded tires. get the side door for ventilation and access, it's a must have! I build them with shelves and a workbench which works great for storing gear along the sides.

I just bought a dual axle 14x7 a couple months ago just for the sake of owning one.
I ordered it with rear barn doors due to the space required to drop the ramp door plus you can't put heavy loads in with a forklift with a ramp in the way of the forklift.

After-market ramps are cheap if I have the need to run my 4 wheeler in or the like.

The side door is a must have.

I gotta be honest, now that I own it, if I had to do it over again I would drop one size down. 14x7 is almost too much for my "more often needs". It's sorta too tall and with the pointed nose and all it's pretty damn long. The 14ft mark on mine is where the square measure ends, the 18 inchs or so in the nose is extra.

Gotta 6x12 dump bed that gets used much more often even now, but just due to it's size.

Mine came with all plywood interior, interior lights, my choice of paint due to ordering it from the factory. Both axles have breaks. Nice LED lights all round. Cost me 3200.00 after taxes.

I'd say if you are thinking a 6x12 might work go for it, I didn't and kinda regret it. Maybe even a single axle.

It'd just be more handy and get used more often with most short runs than the 14x7 has worked out to for me to be.

Mine is working out to be a great storage shed though!

After looking long and hard I realized there wasn't as many manufactures as I first thought, Just lot's of different logos on the same trailers.

I'm sure you could find some Cadillac of a high end trailer out there but overall they are pretty much all alike.

Stick with the 3/4 inch plywood floors and 1/2 inch plywood walls.
3500lb axle(s) with breaks.

I just bought one in Dec, little smaller than what you're looking at - Haulmark Thrifty Hauler, 6x10 V-nose, single 3500 lb axle, 2990 gross weight, side door, rear ramp. I had brakes put on even though not required. Technically could get it recertified to 3500lb gross with the brakes. Came with rear fold down jacks (handy for loading when not hitched to vehicle), roof vent, interior 12v light, four D-ring tie downs in floor. Added horizontal E-track strips on each wall about halfway up for attaching cargo straps.

I using a 1/2 ton pickup (2013 Tundra, 4.6L) so wanted to stay with smaller trailer, but big enough to carry my HD motorcycle (so rear ramp). At 6 ft wide I don't need to add towing mirrors, can see fine. It tows/rides very well empty or loaded, but drops my highway mileage from about 19 to 14 mpg. The v-nose isn't counted in the dimensions, so cargo box actually longer than 10', adds maybe 18". A 6X10 will carry a lot of stuff.

My sister started moving last month, so took it up to NY and carried a load for her from Albany area to Watertown area. The brakes are a very good idea for towing in winter! She still has the trailer and can pull it with her Ford Explorer. I'll get it back in a month or so.

When I get it back I thinking about getting the floor and maybe the ramp Line-X coated. Its bare 3/4 inch dryplus flooring now. Have checked with local applicator and they can Line-X the wood.

I just had one built a couple of months ago by a company in AR (Delta trailers). They did an excellent job. I looked at aluminum, but honestly there wasn't much weight savings and steel is considerably tougher. It is 6'6"x20'. I used tandem 7,000lb torsion (oil bath) axles, full drop rear ramp, led lights, and the best tires I could find. There's no way I could overload it with what I do.

The main reason I decided to go with steel over aluminum was I had a blowout with my old steel trailer. It would have beaten the fender of side off an aluminum, but it barely did anything to the steel.

I spent a year doing research on what I wanted before I had it built and I'm glad I did. There are definitely do's and don'ts.

I like aluminum, they don't rust, but the axle is still steel. and they can rust, and break.
I know, I spent a week in Bemidji one day.

How about indoor/outdoor carpet, or even standard "tough" indoor carpet? You could make it removable and clean it as necessary.

Someone mentioned radial tires. I'll 2d that. Trailer radials aren't made like car radials. They have stiffer sidewalls to handle the weight. I've read that LT rated tires will work much like trailer tires but they're likely more expensive. I have LT E rated tires on a 4 horse trailer and they work very well, although I don't load it all that heavy.

I have a 6 x 12 Universal Trailer. If I had it to do over I would get a 7 x 14. I wold like to have that extra foot to get between 2 bikes. At 6' the bars are nearly touching. Since I don't have the bikes all the way forward it would be nice to have a couple more feet behind them. Hauling dirt bikes is the main purpose of my trailer.
http://www.universaltrailers.com

Was thinking that I wouldn't want anything that could hold moisture underneath against the wood. Don't want mildew or rot to get started. If I don't use Line-X I'll get floor paint.

Deck paint works great and is very durable. I used it on a utility trailer I build 8 years ago. It's open and stored outside. The paint is still in pretty good shape and it's taken a beating.

Another thing about all trailers, I carry two spares.
Trailer tires are more apt to blow, and I don't like stopping at the next town trying to replace the spare.

A friend, and I joke that boats would be free, all we need is a 2" ball, and a spare to put on those rigs sitting along the road on a jack while the owner is off for a new wheel, and tire. Hook up, place wheel on, pull off jack, free boat!

They will if not protected, but I don't have to worry about somebody getting into it with a sharp pocket knife or can opener. I'm also much less worried about a blow out ripping up the side or pulling a fender off. They both have merit but I'll take the steel. To each their own.

Sometimes the happiest day a fisherman ever has is when he sells his @#$%^ boat. You'll be forced to keep that one forever. Heh, heh.

Figure out the amount of weight you will be hauling and size the trailer capacity appropriately. An overrated trailer will beat the snot out of your cargo. An undersized trailer will break down at the worst time and place possible.

Tandem axles are smoother riding and more stable, but you have twice as many tires to replace and twice as many bearings to maintain. A flat is less serious, but more likely to happen. They are also much harder to push around by hand if you need to re-position slightly.

Jerry

Double axle - and 7' wide - not 8.. (easier to 'stay within the mirrors').. Longer (say, 14') can be better due to easier backing/maneuvering issues.

I've had an American Hauler 12'X7' for a few years now - and used it just like you indicated; moving kid back/forth from college. Use it now to bring the bikes to Harley dealer for service if/when weather sux..

The comment re: tires above as to increased wear etc., IMHO don't really apply nearly as much as if the same setup was on a camper.. Usually the enclosed trailers like mine are empty 90% of the time - and even when loaded rarely get to the GVW of the trailer (8K in my case).. Just always bring a spare tire/wheel and appropriate tools/jack to change one if the need ever arises..

Ruger243223,
I have a 7x16 tandem axle cargo trailer. It can haul both of my ATV's. It is rigged inside with two beds, 6' countertop, 21 CF Fridge, rooftop A/C, drawers & shelves. Has met our camping needs since 2003. I have $5200 in it including the price of the trailer new. Cannot complain.

If I were doing the hauling you mentioned I would have purchased a single axle for sure! Easier to tow & less tire worries.

Thanks for all the info. Really appreciated. I am leaning towards the 7x14 or 7x12 single axle. Going to look this week and see I have never really looked at one up close for any amount of time. HAPPY HUNTING and thanks.